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Starting the 1.8L Sport!
#1
Hello, my Sport is having this problem: Key on and off for at least 3 to 4 times before starting really happens. Otherwise, it would just be a click! It could be its pig tail stops working and need to be replaced! Any suggestions would be highly appreciated?
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'96 (07/95) Sidekick Sport 16V, 1.8L, 4 auto, 4x4, 4dr, A/C, ABS in stock.
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#2
sure, this is a no crank event,
the 4speed, has a PRNDL switch on the side the will fail in park after many years its warn, so crank in NEUTRAL.
also try wiggling the shifter as you turn the key switch to Crank position.
it can only be 3 things, if hot wiring the starter solenoid, cranks car,ok, during the failure.
key switch.
wires (connections)
the PRNDL bad.

its not a weak battery , as they usually dont go good/bad/good just you sitting in drivers seat.
but the battery posts can do that too. but that would fail the hot wire test and might fail a jump start too.
the acid test is a voltmeter on the key line at the starter solenoid, if not 10-12v cranking the Key line is dead.

see A/T tricks.
http://www.fixkick.com/nocrank.html#tricks


one other trick ive done on the very very intermittent cars.
is to run a spare wire (fused at 15a) front key ST small lug of starter trough the fire wall, and have it near my Cig lighter. if car dont start i connect my bare wire to the CIG port center hot pin.
if it cranks now, the starter (all else related) is good and the ST line is dead, the Key line. is inop.
in fact you can use old CELL phone charger parts to make up a test to do that or , use this push button.


[Image: remote-button1.jpg]

if gently wiggling the shifter, fixes this, you are sure what is wrong.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#3
Thank you very much for the reply.
The car has developed from getting a click to nothing (silence). wiggling the shifter after turning the key switch to crank position would not work as well. However, wiggling the key itself sometimes work.
The trick you suggested by connecting the starter solenoid to the battery pole positive with a separate wire works quickly.
What would you suggest to look for?


__________________
'96 (07/95) Sidekick Sport 16V, 1.8L, 4 auto, 4x4, 4dr, A/C, ABS in stock.

Thank you very much for the reply.
The car has developed from getting a click to nothing (silence). wiggling the shifter after turning the key switch to crank position would not work as well. However, wiggling the key itself sometimes work.
The trick you suggested by connecting the starter solenoid to the battery pole positive with a separate wire works quickly.
What would you suggest to look for?


__________________
'96 (07/95) Sidekick Sport 16V, 1.8L, 4 auto, 4x4, 4dr, A/C, ABS in stock.
Reply
#4
GOOD, nice work there !
they key line, is just a single wire from KEY START (ST) to the solenoid via, connections, and the PRNDL switch.
id bet the ST pins are dead on the key, switch when it dont start.
that is why wiggling the key fixes this failure. because the switch contacts are worn out, 99%
nobody sells just the switch , only the whole shooting match.
rockauto. sells the assembly too. way less than suzuki.

you can hot wire the starter line at the key switch , proving its bad. too.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#5
Thanks for the reply.
Is it possible to replace with additional wire for the single wire? Or do I need to modify the worn out switch?

__________________
'96 (07/95) Sidekick Sport 16V, 1.8L, 4 auto, 4x4, 4dr, A/C, ABS in stock.
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#6
the PRNDL swith has only one function here, to block starting in gear.
the PRNDL switch can be bypassed with jumper, wire, now car starts in gear.
the igniition switch needs to work. it must send 12vdc power to the starter in start position.
may offroad only cars, have a dash switch that wires from IGN terminal, to the starter. and cranks any time key is turned on and the button pressed.
its just a momentary closed switch. in fact they sell them for that and dash horn buttons.

the key switch prevents ignition or cranking and both with no key
the PRNDL kills starting in gear.
both can be bypassed.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#7
If the switch is removed out of its assembly and a small screwdriver is used to turn to the start position, the car fires up quickly. It means the starter line is not dead. The solution now is to modify the switch by drilling and cutting the edge of the hole of the only screw to have more spaces so that when the switch is screwed up to its assembly, adjustment can be done to have the right angle for the start position. I hope this modified worn-out switch can still be used for ten thousands more!

__________________
'96 (07/95) Sidekick Sport 16V, 1.8L, 4 auto, 4x4, 4dr, A/C, ABS in stock.
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#8
"start position"

others have dismantled the PRNDL and repaired it,
are you saying the ignition switch can be too?
http://www.fixkick.com
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#9
I modified only the ignition switch, not doing anything to the PRNDL because when switch is removed out of its assembly, the car just fires up quickly when crank! However, when the switch is screwed up back to the assembly, nothing happens. So only the switch is the culprit. Now with a bigger hole at the switch, I can adjust it to find more contact of the starter line before the switch is screwed up back into the assembly.
__________________
'96 (07/95) Sidekick Sport 16V, 1.8L, 4 auto, 4x4, 4dr, A/C, ABS in stock.
Reply
#10
the contacts in the switch are bad, sadly no one sells just a switch.
the problem is once they are bad, or tweaked to work for now , they go worse.
it invites getting stranded.
i thing the whole assemble is like $125 at rock auto.
http://www.fixkick.com
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