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is 8V non-interference>>?????
I'm at work and SUDDENLY notice a 'large' puddle of oil under my otherwise bone-dry 91 tracker.
it is dripping off the front balancer pulley

I will probably do the front seal/timing belt/everything else but wonder if it's leaking, and the timing belt gets oily ( already is i'm sure)

will I crash my valves??? I knoe you casn't say for sure it will make it if it's not interference i'll drive it the 10 miles to my shop and RIP IT APART, otherwise if the valves may hit the pistons ill tow it!! SmileSmileSmileSmile SadSadSad
not good, check the 17mm bolt, many G16s die for one reason, not overheated) Crank snout distruction (loose bolt , will beat the seal to death)
the 8v is not and interference motor.
you can put the #1 and #4 piston at TDC, and spin the cam over and over, . no problems.
not one reported 8v, bent valve, yet. (not counting broken valve springs) or the guy that cracked a cam in half....

good luck to you, it can crank seal or cam. it will be obvious; lid off.
when you say LID do you mean the plastic timing cover???
and what is the chance it will just be the lower seal????
I have been looking at it closely, the bottom bolt shows no signs of being loose ( no rust movement/dusty/ and the piulley is tight to my hands today.. just leaking..
sorry the Timing belt cover, lazy , expression.

actually in order of probable? (no 60k miles done, right (lash and new gaskets)
1: the front valve cover gasket leaks and down behind cam seal. very common
2: cam seal.
3: crank
4: or some odd oil pump leak, only if it was modified, by someone, the factory seal it steel gasket.
5: front pan seal leak, rare if stock.

one of mine, had all 5.
crank bolt was +90 ft pounds YAY, i used my torque wrench on it to loosen to check...

top of motor dry.. bottom wet.. crank seal must have not liked the 20 degree weather here all of a sudden! I'm doing the belt and tensioner soon as i get parts!! aalso the oil pump bolts were a bit losose , i gave them a snug up
I looked at the tensioner and altho the spring is tiny and weak, it is hooked to the tensioner in such a way that it multiplies the leverage
.i pulled the cog and it is VERY NICE NO DAMAGE.
Crank seal fell into pieces as well as the CAM SEAL.
I renewed the upper rear cover plate with new grommets and spacers and new adhesive foam.
before dis assembly i backed off all the valve adjusters and the cam and crank is pre-positioned at 4 TDC

all i need is my parts to arrive lol..
tomorrow is the first big snowfall and i will have it done (hopefully) to test out the 4WD hehehehehehe/
thanks for he help!! now the worst thing i can think of is setting the valves but i use go-no-go method
005 too tight and 007 too loose so must be 006 right???
006 on both in and ex?

update i did the in .006 and ex .007
i think you are right the old seal , hated the cold..... no more flexable.
great the 17mm big nut over 90, a vary good sign !!

that tension-er, make sure the back side of idler(slot) is indexed to the tension arm base tab or it will jam.
yes that spring looks weak but does work if all parts are loose. idler, and valves.

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