10-27-2013, 10:04 PM
yes,
it is most likely the most simple of failure, cut wires, bad connections. and yes, me too , I dont miss the daily grind.
we dont have full set of logic rules on this device.
but the buzzer is shared, so all other logical buzzer active signals must be set false first. key switch. and drivers door are 2 inputs that must set to false .
then if the device has power?
that seatbelt switch needs to be either working or defeated. page 12, D8 (warning alarm controller or the WAC) that PDF covers your whole car. electrics.
the seatbelt in alarm is normal, and is the first thing to defeat if not wanting to fix it. it wins the buzzer over, make all other inputs, useless.
to defeat seatbelt part is easy , just ground the ground pin 1 on the wAc.
I think the key switch is mandatory for the HL warning ? if not sure, set the key switch to the false state and retest. (best is to fix the key switch)
the key switch pin 4 im sure has an internal pull down resistor on this input. this sets the alarm false, naturally, and then you insert the key and pin 4 goes to 12v.
so to defeat the key switch , just cut the wire to pin 4, (but i think this kills the HL logic)
HL logic? power good, pin 4 (12v) and 7 (grd)
AND HL (park ) hot, pin 2 (park)
AND door open, (switch is grounded, now at 0v) (and dome light glowing. if its switch set to normal door mode)
AND key line not active. if active key wins pin4 (0v) (im not sure what the WAC does when there are 2 alarms, my guess here is the key always wins.
im pretty sure the HL warning is a 3 line logic "AND" gate. HL_on + Key_off + door_open (12v,0v, 0v) (true, true, true,in logic)
yes, i added a hl warning to a 57chev as a kid, i too hate dead batteries. ( wired to HL and ignition hot wire) see page 19 for that working on a kick, with WAC long ago missing.)
good luck to you.
it is most likely the most simple of failure, cut wires, bad connections. and yes, me too , I dont miss the daily grind.
we dont have full set of logic rules on this device.
but the buzzer is shared, so all other logical buzzer active signals must be set false first. key switch. and drivers door are 2 inputs that must set to false .
then if the device has power?
that seatbelt switch needs to be either working or defeated. page 12, D8 (warning alarm controller or the WAC) that PDF covers your whole car. electrics.
the seatbelt in alarm is normal, and is the first thing to defeat if not wanting to fix it. it wins the buzzer over, make all other inputs, useless.
to defeat seatbelt part is easy , just ground the ground pin 1 on the wAc.
I think the key switch is mandatory for the HL warning ? if not sure, set the key switch to the false state and retest. (best is to fix the key switch)
the key switch pin 4 im sure has an internal pull down resistor on this input. this sets the alarm false, naturally, and then you insert the key and pin 4 goes to 12v.
so to defeat the key switch , just cut the wire to pin 4, (but i think this kills the HL logic)
HL logic? power good, pin 4 (12v) and 7 (grd)
AND HL (park ) hot, pin 2 (park)
AND door open, (switch is grounded, now at 0v) (and dome light glowing. if its switch set to normal door mode)
AND key line not active. if active key wins pin4 (0v) (im not sure what the WAC does when there are 2 alarms, my guess here is the key always wins.
im pretty sure the HL warning is a 3 line logic "AND" gate. HL_on + Key_off + door_open (12v,0v, 0v) (true, true, true,in logic)
yes, i added a hl warning to a 57chev as a kid, i too hate dead batteries. ( wired to HL and ignition hot wire) see page 19 for that working on a kick, with WAC long ago missing.)
good luck to you.
http://www.fixkick.com