Flickering CEL, runs SUPER RICH

[fixkick]

Hello,
Sorry for the slow reply. The ECU is in great shape, looked new. I did change the caps, but the engine still runs very rich. Very low power but perfect idle. I am currently checking the voltages  and points you recommended before. I ordered the parts your page suggested for modifying the fuel rail cap to test fuel pressure. That is what I'll be checking after the ECU voltages. All the injectors are "refurbished new" from a reliable source, however there is some question if they are the correct ones at all. Previous owner had a hard time finding replacements. Next steps are checking ECU voltages and testing fuel pressure. I will let you know how it goes! Thanks for the support!

Background Info 

Previous owner (who I know personally) has been chasing this issue for years so almost everything has been changed or rebuilt. Vehicle was operating perfect (2018, timed it myself when he first bought it) until the thermostat failed and he drove it a good distance while overheating (dumb). He replaced and rebuilt the whole top end, still did not run correctly. He slowly changed every sensor on the vehicle. Then changed the entire intake manifold to '96. Still over fueling. Swapped all 4 injectors, no change. Attempted to set the ignition timing, he broke the distributor hold down bolt and had to pull the engine to repair. sat for two years indoors. This is when I got the vehicle (I have been involved the whole time BTW. I have the tools haha). Repaired the bolt, replace the clutch and put the engine back with all new vacuum lines. I did replace all the fuel in the system, fully dropped and drained the tank. Have not replaced the filter, but too much fuel is rarely a symptom of that.
EGR valve, injectors, MAF sensor, fuel pressure reg... all brand new. Distributor, wires and plugs all new, Great compression on all four cylinders, but going to test again just incase.

sorry so slow me  95 car with 96 parts. sure,  EGR is ok to do that if done right. using 96 parts.(mech)
what are the CEL blink codes?  using the diagnostic jumper DLC under the hood,, mine is just behind headlight right, DLC. per my DLC pages .

so all 4 injector leak.? or just 1.
Yes I too am tool rich,, a huge cache of tool.s for 58+ years. 1965 to now saved, even one of the first ever made timing lights from Heathkit. (and still works)

omg broke the bolt on DISTIB.  very nasty,  and has low torque spec, as all aluminum parts do. the torque pages is only website. fully. 72 inch  pounds !
inch lbs in not Ft lbs,  (not saying you do not know that this is for others reading about torque)
over injecting has many causes.
the injection problem as you know is caused by just  a few things.
1: fuel pressure at 60psi , FPR bad or fuel return line pinched closed.
2: injectors are just plane old bad and leak. injector cleaner , Chevron  Techron , in the tank. tired.
3: ECU is bad (most are not) but if bad sure.  but 99% of the time it is bad inputs the PCM/ECU,  it is after all just a computer.(robust)
4: bad inputs to ECU  a to z
a: ECT STUCK AT -40f  TEMP READINGS, IT IS BAD.  300 OHMS HOT 180F IS SPEC, AND MOST BE. very easy to test , replacing all sensors invite wrong sensor installed.

b: SPARK TIMING WAY OFF, IS IT? TIMING LIGHT TIME. USE the , timing freeze jumper at the DLC to do that. per hood up sticker spec,BTDC degree spec.
c: spark gap at 0.028" never use factory NGK, .045" do not do that, set the gap to spec, this is not HEI rated spark
d: cam time way way off. or e: caused.
e: Crank pulley loose and the key way is now WRECKED< causing D, above. see  this>>>>  http://fixkick.com/t-belt/damage/index.html
F: MAF bad.  if goes dead the ECU goes to  limp home mode and goes super rich, doing that. test the MAF key , on and idle and then WOT it for huge rise to 4vdc , throttle crank hard for 3sec max. (a 2 person test)
g: I hope I got them all.

the top cause of rich (for sure limphome and not looking for DTC errors first)
are high fuel pressure
ECT bad or the wrong one put in, my ECT chart covers all this.
MAF dead,  if using cold air kits, (nasty crap) and now the MAF bounces at ever inch of road. the MAF dies fast. it must be fully stock and secure to last.

limphome  mode emulates the dead sensor and does so very poorly,  and goes rich. use the DLC Diag jumper. first
the 6 pin is there.  G16b , 16 valves , has a MAF

https://fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/DiagJump.html#gen2

you can even drive with the DIGG jumper in place to see if flash codes change or even flash codes go dead. as bad ECU do.(bad caps)
drive and see code 12, endless is the goal, here.
OBD1 is not smart at all like OBD2.  dumb , it only sets codes when say a sensor is dead, stuck low or stuck high
It mostly never tells if a sensor is weak ever.
EGR excepted.




how this helps and sorry so slow. me.
good luck to you  and I hope it is running like new soon, I sure can be. 1 failure at a time.