1994 Sidekick 16v AT 4x4 4dr virgin ECM Ruby's still there

[fixkick]

Ok so I had the ECM done by an electrical engineer that does repair work on the side. He said that it needed to be heated up to 200°C in order to remove the old caps and install the new ones. I was able to watch him do the repair work I also had him test the transistors and he said that they were fine. One capacitor had no capacitance and the other had very low capacitance so they were causing my flooding issue I'm pretty sure. But now I'm thinking the ECM has probably been having issues for some time and the over fueling has been happening for awhile as well cause when I started it it was running horrible and the exhaust manifold got hot really fast and I thought maybe the ECM was toast but I thought about it for a minute and then pulled the catalytic converter and it ran great. So I think the over fueling killed my cat. What is strange is I can see through the cat. Do you think it could be my muffler?

I keep asking if the CEL lamp does DLC code 12. on demand.
any time any car runs poorly we do that, on 1996 and newer cars OBD2 scans, USA cars.
older all have  jumper you insert in to the DLC, and i blinks out code 12 for good,any code higher than 12 is bad.
The cat will melt if engine goes way to rick rich,
yes these cars the cat can also breakup in to chunks and lodge in the muffler and clog it up too. 
200 °Celsius = 392 °Fahrenheit,   this will wreck any ECU, made, in an oven,  pins in the ECU are 60/40 lead solder .  I think he meant soldering gun temps only here,  I will chock this off as bad comms. from the soldering man.

The engine and EFI (ECU) has many causes of flooding (way to rich)
1: HIGH FUEL PRESSURE, we check this first, and we test the FPR fully , most of these orig. FPR are now bad,  the FPR is dynamic, with engine load.
2: ECU stuck in limp home mode.  (you will never know this unless you use the DLC jumper, this is first things first test, and NOT DONE yet why? IIRC
3: one injector only rich ,can be bad injector or ECU bad. (inj, transistors)  see one spark plug reading rich black or soaking wet tip in fuel>?
4: Gross misfiring.  spark bad in any way, will cause gross rich condition,  on all cylinders or just 1.
5: Bad engine, cam belt slipped, compression at 80psi not 180.  (12.4bar is good not 6)
A: As a result of any or all of the above, the CAT will glow red, and then melt or breakup or any of that.
B: if the cat melts engine vacuum is horrible effects. just  horrid. and no engine power. 


First we test the engine, we never blame the ECU first (ever ) well bad caps sure, but if you buy a $400 refurb from CARDONE 1,  and you are back to sqaure one how will that feel? blame ECU last after caps are fresh. last.
the rules are simple really,
Scan the PC first. code 12 ,  1995 method. paper clip jumper, why wait it is a 5 minute job, what if the ECU told you the MAF is dead , why skip this:?
engine is first. (compression tests and  vacuum readings all good or all bad.) if bad compression the cam belt slipped, as the all do.
then if all that is OK
there is also a cat back pressure test . see test 2 or 5  seen here. kickfix.com
check spark timing with a timing light, a $20 tool. if timing is way off the cam belt slipped. (again ?)
check spark plug tips, for SIGNS,  (color, carbon black ,white ,green with antifreeze , soaked in brown oil, dripping in fuel )) oldest test there is for 100 years engines USA. (world wide) otto cycle engines, petro/gasoline.
next?
if engine tests check out ok , the engine must pump air or the ECU can not inject correctly  , the ECU will not like a  very bad engine) ever
the ECU only compensates for normal wear, and altitude and driver demand.
next up is fueling tests, and fuel pressure at keyon (nostart) and idling tells you if FPR is good or bad.  36 KO,  30psi idle (bar:
a 6PSI difference or the FPR is BAD ! fuel pressure regulator = FPR, bad. and is now COMMON on all cars this old. super common in fact.


KEY On Bar: KO= 2.5 bar
idling Bar: is ,  2.1bar,     note the change in fuel pressure. here. it drops  and must drop.  THE ECU will never  ever run right with any BAD FPR that is for sure.