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Camshaft Dry, Top End Oil Problems
#1
Hey kick! Back again. After the 1996 x90 passed smog with the modified ECU it seems i have hit a snag. After driving it my girlfriend said it just died on her one day. I heard a chirping when she turned it over so i took the valve cover off and the camshaft is dry between the very front rocker arms and the very rear. Im not too keen on the oil galleys that lube the camshaft. do you think this is an oil pump problem or something else? i dont mind changing the oil pump just wanted your opinion. Thanks kick!
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#2
(10-12-2019, 07:39 AM)CSUSBgeochem1 Wrote: Hey kick! Back again.  After the 1996 x90 passed smog with the modified ECU it seems i have hit a snag.  After driving it my girlfriend said it just died on her one day.  I heard a chirping when she turned it over so i took the valve cover off and the camshaft is dry between the very front rocker arms and the very rear.  Im not too keen on the oil galleys that lube the camshaft. do you think this is an oil pump problem or something else? i dont mind changing the oil pump just wanted your opinion. Thanks kick!

the oil pressure is checked first.  if that is ok then the tiny  0.050" head gallery orifice is clogged.
https://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-...284%29.jpg
or one of the cam bearings (virtual they are, just machined in the head) are bad and leak way too much,  (mike them?)

the purpose of the orifice is to keep the crank and rod bearings from burning up if the cam goes bad, (hint leaks like mad from damage on cam bearing journal)
http://www.fixkick.com
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#3
Hey kick! wanted to get back to you after ALL this time. Idk how it ran so long but the headgasket was on wrong and the oil galley plugged. 2 of the cam shaft journals were and the oil galleys that used to be there were welded shut. The head was destroyed due to my carelessness. Well we took the old spare from the sidekick and had it cleaned and resurfaced. I decided to lap the valves myself and that look quite a while. Was able to achieve 180 psi on all cylinders. Now that the motor is back up and running there is a high idle. like 1000 rpm. The ISC seems to be functioning and id have to take off the throttle body to get to the IAC. I might need to replace the throttle body because the stop screw is rusted and looks like a plug in there. No way to get it out. It idled fine before the blow up but now its slightly high. All vacuum hoses were replace and the vacuum is at 22 Hg and functions as it should when revved and decelerated. should i replace the throttle body due to the screw. Iv never drilled out a hole as such and wouldnt feel safe doing so on such precision made parts.
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#4
yah I have no idea why the gasket does NOT have the word UP on it. as some do.
said that. you blocked the .050" orifice and ran head dry.... never good that.
that screw is never touch screw and when new is black pastic cap there blocking you
the this TB top rear (see black cap there, that hide the idle air bleed screw, only this is adustable.
the engine only idle at 800 if water temp hits 180 at the 150f cross over the idle goes to 800.
water temp is always first check. then water flow must actually pass through the bottom of IAC , water jacket inside it, (TB base bottom ISC)
the TV throttle valve is always closed at idle 99.9% and set at the factory I think at .0005" gap so the TV can not jam,, but flows no air at all the TV, only 3 things flow AIR.
IAC therm (only cold)
ISC electric (hot idle PWM controlled by ECU)
and bleed valve. (sets idle PWM duty cycle to 50%

the stop screw is 1 time ever factory setting.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#5
Ok see this is where im also having issues. The temps never seem to go over 150. I let the car idle for almost an hour and with a laser temp sensor it only gets to 155 max and fluctuates between 145-155. I NEVER saw it get to 180. I understand this must be the issue.
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