keep in mind it is just a simple engine and car.
know that if that VR acts up the engine may flood, (if the ECU sees VR dead,, it does cut fuel) but if VR makes weak spark so weak can't run engine the ECU may think it is ok)
The ecu only sees the coil primary signal not true live spark real, just the primary side, so can be fooled easy. ok? ECU fooled.
so then the engine floods.
and say spark returns with the engine shacking hard, cranked, the bad VR might wake up or the bad ground to the distributor makes a better connection
but now with flooded engine, the engine may not start, until the spark plugs are dried out.
see>?
then engine never dies running or fully hot, 180f if fully hot, if not the engine will flood.
It only fails , from engine of point.
are hot restarts more easy or less easy than cold.
all testing takes 2 persons to find intermittent starts.
or buy a remote start hotwire stater button as sold in all autostores, forever. for one person testing. (2 wires, 1 to battery + one to small Faston™ terminal on the starter solenoid,
chock front wheels, and be in neutral and had brake set hard, even 4wd neutral for more safety first.
one more issue on flooding, (its and old car, most flood this old, lots of ways)
1: the IAC in the base of the TBI throttle body goes dead.
2: engine will want to not start.
3: so not using WOT< only add 5% throttle (mean tiny bit) and crank this fools the ECU into thinking (ouch) that the IAC is not dead. and now fuel and air are not near perfect and it start.
cold starting
IAC is just a thermal air ADDING device, if dead?,IAC, the air goes to 0. and you can not start any engine lacking AIR. (on a hot start the ISC is the air supply (and tiny bit from TV)
know that if that VR acts up the engine may flood, (if the ECU sees VR dead,, it does cut fuel) but if VR makes weak spark so weak can't run engine the ECU may think it is ok)
The ecu only sees the coil primary signal not true live spark real, just the primary side, so can be fooled easy. ok? ECU fooled.
so then the engine floods.
and say spark returns with the engine shacking hard, cranked, the bad VR might wake up or the bad ground to the distributor makes a better connection
but now with flooded engine, the engine may not start, until the spark plugs are dried out.
see>?
then engine never dies running or fully hot, 180f if fully hot, if not the engine will flood.
It only fails , from engine of point.
are hot restarts more easy or less easy than cold.
all testing takes 2 persons to find intermittent starts.
or buy a remote start hotwire stater button as sold in all autostores, forever. for one person testing. (2 wires, 1 to battery + one to small Faston™ terminal on the starter solenoid,
chock front wheels, and be in neutral and had brake set hard, even 4wd neutral for more safety first.
one more issue on flooding, (its and old car, most flood this old, lots of ways)
1: the IAC in the base of the TBI throttle body goes dead.
2: engine will want to not start.
3: so not using WOT< only add 5% throttle (mean tiny bit) and crank this fools the ECU into thinking (ouch) that the IAC is not dead. and now fuel and air are not near perfect and it start.
cold starting
IAC is just a thermal air ADDING device, if dead?,IAC, the air goes to 0. and you can not start any engine lacking AIR. (on a hot start the ISC is the air supply (and tiny bit from TV)
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