03-27-2019, 12:59 AM
there is no crank sensor on any 89 ever made. (usa)
the spark is all created inside the distributor (and 1 outside coil)
the ECU does not make make spark and there is no true CMP cam sensor here at all, only one VR sensor inside the distributor.
the crank sensor stated year 1996 up
the CMP cam sensor started 1991 up (all comments USA cars) CMP is HALL sensor, that mostly never fails but the 89/90 VR sensors love to fail.
VR is variable reluctance sensor, and has gap setting in the manual and on my 89 spark page. fixkick.com even the factory pages on that.. all there.
finding intermittent problems on any old car takes, skilled and hard work,
can I assume [/b]the below means engine will not start but at that TIME (moments of testing), the below was seen?(proven)?
Not in rust belt. (VERY GOOD)
Injector is pumping gas as expected. There is spark as expected.
so if fooling, are the spark plugs bad, and jet black tipped,
Would the crank sensor if bad kill the spark, or would spark be there as normal on this particular (89 sidekick) truck?
there is no such thing, on this car., period.
nor will any 96 to 98 sidekick Crank sensor kill spark like seen on all Toyota's ok? so forget CKP sensors, there are none here.
this cars ECU only does Fueling, the ECU does not create spark on this CAR, nor does it advance timing on this car ever.
The Distributor does make all spark all by itself, even on a bench spun dizzy, by hand, and connected to the coil. I can make spark ( a fact)
the ECU does in fact Monitor spark ,(and input only to the ECU ) called the tachmeter wire, this brown wire if goes dead the ECU cuts all fueling to prevent
a horrible fire, as the engine floods like mad.
ever try new spark wires and new spark plugs gapped to 0.028" and never use the out of box gap EVER, OOTB out of the box its 0.045" done by mindless computers, in factories (machines) .
using simple and cheap, J plugs from NGK? spec spark plugs.
one odd things about engine,s and failure to start, (cranks fast at 300rpm) there are these things.
1: is the crank bolt 17mm hex torqued to 94ft/lbs , per the TSB. ?
2: are you running the cam belt from 100,000 miles an wondering why the timing of same changes every day or week or attempt?
3: ever do the full 60k mile tuneup (aka. full 60k service points)
4: if engine has spark and fuel, ever look at spark plug tips first,( this is called basics in engine diagnosis)
5: if the engine still has spark and fuel, ever do a compression test at WOT? this too is basics, 101 engine diagnosis. if found at 50PSI x 4 not 150
that means the belt slipped. step 2 above.
and last, #1 above, the crank cog on this car loves to strip out the key on end of crankshaft,l due to nobody reads TSB's warnings,
I would now guess, 2 things, cam timing changes like made.
or the distributor has intermittant spark, but the testing is tricky, if I say fuel and the fuel is good, not smelling like old boat fuel, i then
check spark quickly and if that is ok, I then do WOT cranking to clear all flooding.
if that fails, I look at spark plug tips , i bet black and soaking wet with fuel
yes, I then check compression , WOT, must be near or over 1/2 throttle to get air into the engine and let the compression gauge peak the needle.
if compression not at spec or 1/3 normal is possible the cam is NO LONGER TIMED.
I have no idea the history of this car nor service done in last 60,000 miles (this magic number repeats)
120, 180k etc.
is the belt new? is the crank cog at 94fl/lbs, this 94 rule is day one buy car check, never skip this check or wreck a good crankshaft you will.
the spark is all created inside the distributor (and 1 outside coil)
the ECU does not make make spark and there is no true CMP cam sensor here at all, only one VR sensor inside the distributor.
the crank sensor stated year 1996 up
the CMP cam sensor started 1991 up (all comments USA cars) CMP is HALL sensor, that mostly never fails but the 89/90 VR sensors love to fail.
VR is variable reluctance sensor, and has gap setting in the manual and on my 89 spark page. fixkick.com even the factory pages on that.. all there.
finding intermittent problems on any old car takes, skilled and hard work,
can I assume [/b]the below means engine will not start but at that TIME (moments of testing), the below was seen?(proven)?
Not in rust belt. (VERY GOOD)
Injector is pumping gas as expected. There is spark as expected.
so if fooling, are the spark plugs bad, and jet black tipped,
Would the crank sensor if bad kill the spark, or would spark be there as normal on this particular (89 sidekick) truck?
there is no such thing, on this car., period.
nor will any 96 to 98 sidekick Crank sensor kill spark like seen on all Toyota's ok? so forget CKP sensors, there are none here.
this cars ECU only does Fueling, the ECU does not create spark on this CAR, nor does it advance timing on this car ever.
The Distributor does make all spark all by itself, even on a bench spun dizzy, by hand, and connected to the coil. I can make spark ( a fact)
the ECU does in fact Monitor spark ,(and input only to the ECU ) called the tachmeter wire, this brown wire if goes dead the ECU cuts all fueling to prevent
a horrible fire, as the engine floods like mad.
ever try new spark wires and new spark plugs gapped to 0.028" and never use the out of box gap EVER, OOTB out of the box its 0.045" done by mindless computers, in factories (machines) .
using simple and cheap, J plugs from NGK? spec spark plugs.
one odd things about engine,s and failure to start, (cranks fast at 300rpm) there are these things.
1: is the crank bolt 17mm hex torqued to 94ft/lbs , per the TSB. ?
2: are you running the cam belt from 100,000 miles an wondering why the timing of same changes every day or week or attempt?
3: ever do the full 60k mile tuneup (aka. full 60k service points)
4: if engine has spark and fuel, ever look at spark plug tips first,( this is called basics in engine diagnosis)
5: if the engine still has spark and fuel, ever do a compression test at WOT? this too is basics, 101 engine diagnosis. if found at 50PSI x 4 not 150
that means the belt slipped. step 2 above.
and last, #1 above, the crank cog on this car loves to strip out the key on end of crankshaft,l due to nobody reads TSB's warnings,
I would now guess, 2 things, cam timing changes like made.
or the distributor has intermittant spark, but the testing is tricky, if I say fuel and the fuel is good, not smelling like old boat fuel, i then
check spark quickly and if that is ok, I then do WOT cranking to clear all flooding.
if that fails, I look at spark plug tips , i bet black and soaking wet with fuel
yes, I then check compression , WOT, must be near or over 1/2 throttle to get air into the engine and let the compression gauge peak the needle.
if compression not at spec or 1/3 normal is possible the cam is NO LONGER TIMED.
I have no idea the history of this car nor service done in last 60,000 miles (this magic number repeats)
120, 180k etc.
is the belt new? is the crank cog at 94fl/lbs, this 94 rule is day one buy car check, never skip this check or wreck a good crankshaft you will.
http://www.fixkick.com