engine building is one of the longest topic there is, besides custom eCU tuning
standard means ( at the factory ) this is the standard grind, (as varies by the wear in the factory grinding wheels,AND COLOR CODED TO MATCH ERROR)
this is why they have sub sizes, no other reason just that.
THE ARE 3 SIZES, NORMALLY, STD, .1MM .2MM ETC
BUT NOT AT SUZUKI USING CRAP GANGED WORN GRINDING WHEELS.
When you buy new bearings, from not Suzuki you get 3 sizes only, and for a new ground crank,
you can not use say brand new bearing from USA, on old , never ground suzuki crank. see why?
that means only this old crank fits only those just removed bearings,but if lost only suzuki sells them. ok?>
standard .010, 0.02. 0.03
in case seller and grinder are using imperal inches. so my guess is standard is the color code for suzuki for loose standard.
tell me how to grind any used crank to standard so is really bogus.
the main bearing max is .0016" clearance, top to bottom not sides of journal.
ever heard of federal mogul or trw. ?
see suzuki 5 colored bearing main here, (part id 40 )
note some sizes are not discontiuned for ever.
with this 1 fact you learn why all cranks must be ground and using USA bearing best, 0.010' may work, a mike proves this is minutes
in a real shop in the USA they get say ground to perfection NO ERRORS, to the next major size. (smaller journal)
the engine serial number G16xnnnn x is the year, on all USA engine blocks using same letter codes used for VIN year)
main bearings may have turned. (well using that MIKE, tells you in 5 minutes if it was ground or not,the spec page in your FSM is clear on that.
main cracks are no good ever. would be kicked to curb., but you have no choice lacking , doing aligned board new main bore mounts..... so is now off table.
there are in fact bearing makers in the USA, that sold bearing since, 1920's famous makers.
then those ebay crap, called DNJ (joking, defiantly NOT japanese) and vast others no named or using other odd names.
that is the problem now,
the top brands are all very good. bearings mains or rods. mains is topic now.
the are precision made to fit ONLY stock main bores,and have stock set preloads, if loose will spin and leak oil, all bad bad bad.
The crush if first, at full torque , and like this the bearing is now at spec ID , inside diameter and fits the new ground crank perfectly
when using and old crank and old bearing , measure the crank journals in 8 places, 9degr. apart
then with 4 bearing loaded and torqued with 4 used bearing shells from the old but looks good crank
I then use the bore guage tool to see if all 4 bearings are at spec, 8 places. that is 16 measurements
then the 4 plasitgage check now, to prove the above was not done right.
In a schlock shop (amateurs) the just to the the Plasticgage and pry
in the super bad shop just turn crank by hand (no pistons/rods)
if spins with 1 hand the bad guy says hey this is good.
its lots of labor and cost here.
why skip a step, blows my mind. but is common, we do 20 checks on the crank
21; for crank wobble
22; for line bore way off.
23: end play,
24: and lots of checks for cracks, those are super bad. (A SHOP MAGNEFLUX THE Crank after all why grind a cracked crank
.
those cracks are,from bad ROD seizing and the huge forces to the crank,
or from engine ping from H3LL (detonation) EGR DEAD.
federal Mogul
https://www.fme-cat.com/Application.aspx...97cid&ga=Y
3 sizes, std, .1mm and .2mm
suzuki is here, and some are out of stock. 5 sizes.
http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/e...?pid=11049
those are very good bearings, not from some lame china cloners.
standard means ( at the factory ) this is the standard grind, (as varies by the wear in the factory grinding wheels,AND COLOR CODED TO MATCH ERROR)
this is why they have sub sizes, no other reason just that.
THE ARE 3 SIZES, NORMALLY, STD, .1MM .2MM ETC
BUT NOT AT SUZUKI USING CRAP GANGED WORN GRINDING WHEELS.
When you buy new bearings, from not Suzuki you get 3 sizes only, and for a new ground crank,
you can not use say brand new bearing from USA, on old , never ground suzuki crank. see why?
that means only this old crank fits only those just removed bearings,but if lost only suzuki sells them. ok?>
standard .010, 0.02. 0.03
in case seller and grinder are using imperal inches. so my guess is standard is the color code for suzuki for loose standard.
tell me how to grind any used crank to standard so is really bogus.
the main bearing max is .0016" clearance, top to bottom not sides of journal.
ever heard of federal mogul or trw. ?
see suzuki 5 colored bearing main here, (part id 40 )
note some sizes are not discontiuned for ever.
with this 1 fact you learn why all cranks must be ground and using USA bearing best, 0.010' may work, a mike proves this is minutes
in a real shop in the USA they get say ground to perfection NO ERRORS, to the next major size. (smaller journal)
the engine serial number G16xnnnn x is the year, on all USA engine blocks using same letter codes used for VIN year)
main bearings may have turned. (well using that MIKE, tells you in 5 minutes if it was ground or not,the spec page in your FSM is clear on that.
main cracks are no good ever. would be kicked to curb., but you have no choice lacking , doing aligned board new main bore mounts..... so is now off table.
there are in fact bearing makers in the USA, that sold bearing since, 1920's famous makers.
then those ebay crap, called DNJ (joking, defiantly NOT japanese) and vast others no named or using other odd names.
that is the problem now,
the top brands are all very good. bearings mains or rods. mains is topic now.
the are precision made to fit ONLY stock main bores,and have stock set preloads, if loose will spin and leak oil, all bad bad bad.
The crush if first, at full torque , and like this the bearing is now at spec ID , inside diameter and fits the new ground crank perfectly
when using and old crank and old bearing , measure the crank journals in 8 places, 9degr. apart
then with 4 bearing loaded and torqued with 4 used bearing shells from the old but looks good crank
I then use the bore guage tool to see if all 4 bearings are at spec, 8 places. that is 16 measurements
then the 4 plasitgage check now, to prove the above was not done right.
In a schlock shop (amateurs) the just to the the Plasticgage and pry
in the super bad shop just turn crank by hand (no pistons/rods)
if spins with 1 hand the bad guy says hey this is good.
its lots of labor and cost here.
why skip a step, blows my mind. but is common, we do 20 checks on the crank
21; for crank wobble
22; for line bore way off.
23: end play,
24: and lots of checks for cracks, those are super bad. (A SHOP MAGNEFLUX THE Crank after all why grind a cracked crank
.
those cracks are,from bad ROD seizing and the huge forces to the crank,
or from engine ping from H3LL (detonation) EGR DEAD.
federal Mogul
https://www.fme-cat.com/Application.aspx...97cid&ga=Y
3 sizes, std, .1mm and .2mm
suzuki is here, and some are out of stock. 5 sizes.
http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/e...?pid=11049
those are very good bearings, not from some lame china cloners.
http://www.fixkick.com