01-31-2019, 04:04 AM
Wow, such long responses. I appreciate the time you spent on them. And have to say you have an interesting writing style.
Lots of good info, I will have to reread a couple of times.
I still have questions if you have energy to write a little more. First let me give you a better description of my situation:
Machine shop not an option, very rural. I have good quality micrometer and bore gauge (Fowler). I have nice heated workshop. I have fixed hone with 3 grades of grinding stones, but no boring machine. I have moderate metal fabrication skills and tools (no lathe). I have '93 service manual and '94/'95 supplementary manual. Attempting to rebuild an engine for a second '95 Sidekick (I have completed one already -- see my face book page, "Suzuki Sidekick Restoration Project" for more on that project).
I disassembled my spare engine from a '95 sidekick (16V, G16A block) and found that it was cracked between cylinder 1 and cylinder 2 through the main bearing mounting surface all the way to the piston sleeves on both sides. That block is trash.
I have one other g16a block. No info about it, but I suspect that it came from a '93 model, already disassembled, part of an extra parts car that was included in the purchase of another parts car (I have a collection of 4 including the one I rebuilt already). Inspection of this spare block indicates that it is not great, but no cracks, and top surface within specs, some taper and out of round in cylinders (still to be carefully measured). It has marks and scratches in the main bearing bores making me think that the main bearings may have turned. I do not have the bearings or the crankshaft that came out of this block.
The crankshaft from the cracked block appears to be in excellent condition. All main journals measure 2.0470" with maximum out of round of 0.0001". Well within the manual specs. The main bearing caps concern me because they have tiny cracks. None go all the way through and all short. Looking at them yesterday, I am thinking I could probably go ahead and use them. No other choice. I tried cap from other block and measurements were all out of wack. I torqued one original slightly cracked cap down (#5) and measured the bore at 2.2077 vertical and 2.2074 near horizontal (0.0003 narrower across than it is up/down). Looking at the manual, those measurements appear to be usable. So I need a main bearing with outside diameter of 2.2077, inside diameter of 2.0486. Shopping now to see if I can find them before I do any more work on the block.
So now that you know all about my engine;
Questions:
1. Where do you buy main bearings when you need them?
2. Rock Auto has main bearings listed as "standard" set. Same at LowRange. Neither of them list the dimensions of the bearings. Do you know what they mean by "standard size"? I have written messages asking them, but no response yet.
3. You mentioned using shims/washer with head bolts as an alternative to the head plate for honing the piston cylinders. Do you have an example/illustration of doing that. It might be something I can do that would be better than honing without anything on the top surface of the block.
PS. I am a hobbyist. I do this just for fun. I like to do a good job, but sometimes have to settle for OK. And money is an issue according to my wife. Smile.
Lots of good info, I will have to reread a couple of times.
I still have questions if you have energy to write a little more. First let me give you a better description of my situation:
Machine shop not an option, very rural. I have good quality micrometer and bore gauge (Fowler). I have nice heated workshop. I have fixed hone with 3 grades of grinding stones, but no boring machine. I have moderate metal fabrication skills and tools (no lathe). I have '93 service manual and '94/'95 supplementary manual. Attempting to rebuild an engine for a second '95 Sidekick (I have completed one already -- see my face book page, "Suzuki Sidekick Restoration Project" for more on that project).
I disassembled my spare engine from a '95 sidekick (16V, G16A block) and found that it was cracked between cylinder 1 and cylinder 2 through the main bearing mounting surface all the way to the piston sleeves on both sides. That block is trash.
I have one other g16a block. No info about it, but I suspect that it came from a '93 model, already disassembled, part of an extra parts car that was included in the purchase of another parts car (I have a collection of 4 including the one I rebuilt already). Inspection of this spare block indicates that it is not great, but no cracks, and top surface within specs, some taper and out of round in cylinders (still to be carefully measured). It has marks and scratches in the main bearing bores making me think that the main bearings may have turned. I do not have the bearings or the crankshaft that came out of this block.
The crankshaft from the cracked block appears to be in excellent condition. All main journals measure 2.0470" with maximum out of round of 0.0001". Well within the manual specs. The main bearing caps concern me because they have tiny cracks. None go all the way through and all short. Looking at them yesterday, I am thinking I could probably go ahead and use them. No other choice. I tried cap from other block and measurements were all out of wack. I torqued one original slightly cracked cap down (#5) and measured the bore at 2.2077 vertical and 2.2074 near horizontal (0.0003 narrower across than it is up/down). Looking at the manual, those measurements appear to be usable. So I need a main bearing with outside diameter of 2.2077, inside diameter of 2.0486. Shopping now to see if I can find them before I do any more work on the block.
So now that you know all about my engine;
Questions:
1. Where do you buy main bearings when you need them?
2. Rock Auto has main bearings listed as "standard" set. Same at LowRange. Neither of them list the dimensions of the bearings. Do you know what they mean by "standard size"? I have written messages asking them, but no response yet.
3. You mentioned using shims/washer with head bolts as an alternative to the head plate for honing the piston cylinders. Do you have an example/illustration of doing that. It might be something I can do that would be better than honing without anything on the top surface of the block.
PS. I am a hobbyist. I do this just for fun. I like to do a good job, but sometimes have to settle for OK. And money is an issue according to my wife. Smile.
1995 Suzuki Sidekick JX 4WD 4-door hardtop, G16 1.6L 16 valve L4 SOHC, 4-spd Auto Trans (Asin AW Model 03-72 LE), Non-ABS, Assembled in Ingersoil, Ontario. Currently in Tok, AK.