a bad shorted pump
can in fact cause main to overload and not blow fuse (hint a nice nasty 14amp short)
and the ECU goes nuts (chatters relays) ecu goes dead, 5vdc will never run any ECU made ever.
first test the 2 power pins, seen here, for 10v to 12vdc, (10 cranked ,12v key on)
ok? if test 1 fails the pump is shorted, if the battery reads 10v cranked.
the ECU goes nuts below 10, ,9v is my guess,
![[Image: 3_16_11_18_9_45_09.jpeg]](http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/gallery/3_16_11_18_9_45_09.jpeg)
never ever jumper (hotwire) ECU driver pin #3 to anything, or ECU blows up Q106 transistor, instantly,
use a dmm meter, for all tests.
measure all 4 pins on the relay , only. and record them ,
during the 3 second period of key just turned off to on.
this is the best way to find the cause, bar none.
if pump volts is weak. (5v?)
check pin 2 above, if that is weak too (5v) and same voltage, weak, the PUMP is shorted or wires to it are.
can in fact cause main to overload and not blow fuse (hint a nice nasty 14amp short)
and the ECU goes nuts (chatters relays) ecu goes dead, 5vdc will never run any ECU made ever.
first test the 2 power pins, seen here, for 10v to 12vdc, (10 cranked ,12v key on)
ok? if test 1 fails the pump is shorted, if the battery reads 10v cranked.
the ECU goes nuts below 10, ,9v is my guess,
never ever jumper (hotwire) ECU driver pin #3 to anything, or ECU blows up Q106 transistor, instantly,
use a dmm meter, for all tests.
measure all 4 pins on the relay , only. and record them ,
during the 3 second period of key just turned off to on.
this is the best way to find the cause, bar none.
if pump volts is weak. (5v?)
check pin 2 above, if that is weak too (5v) and same voltage, weak, the PUMP is shorted or wires to it are.
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