some of old dogs sleep.
I guess the car does not start and run , right? (cranks ok)
this is real easy , basic, electrics.
that Pink wire. must go to at least 11vdc key on for 3 seconds, or the wire is shorted. (or bad relay)
wires can open, or short.
pumps can go open or short
or the relay is bad,
I use amp meter to read pump current 4 amps good 10 bad. 15 bat, more than that the fuse blows.
no the 96 is same as 91, to 98 generations in how it works.
96 they moved the fuel pump relay to heater box, and you can swap relays there, seen with same P/N sure can.
the 4 pins are here.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/1996/EFI2.jpg
blk/wht = IG-coil fuse 12vdc, all the time. key on, power.
pink- ecu control line, 12vd key on, and 0v for 3seconds key just turned on and 0v cranking it relay energizes , CLICK
blu/blk= main relay out, 12vdc keyon, all the time key on, if not ECU goes dead. this is FI fuse. if 0v. FI blew, or main relay bad.
pink-bk - runs the pump that is all it does and gets its power from main out. 12vdc.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/1996/EFI1.jpg
i do not understand these 2 links (heard? is what you meant, closing?)
FP relay not closing.
Seeing 4.65v at ecm pin for three sec at key on the 0v with relay disconnected. (what Pin what color wire) my wild guess, is the solid pink wire, relay to ECU?
i do not have enough data from you,. on pump relaypin volages, for 3 second key on, all 4 pins matter for that 3 second, test.
4.6v is bad, for any key on event.
what do all pins read when you saw, 4.6v, key on for 3 seconds.
we already know 2 things on this car
1: the pumps can and do short.
2: when 1 happens and say 14amps flow, (partial shorts happen or say OVERLOAD inside pump) this overloads the ECU power feed, causing ECU go nuts. 4.6v = NUTS.
why would ECU cut the prime, answer it never does unless
you overload the blu/blk= main relay out wire.
when any FP relay fails, measure all 4 FP relay pins key for 3 seconds then after.
if you see main voltage drop, that is pump short or battery dread or cracked FI fuse.
which I had the basics first.
does car start and run, my guess n0.
does the starter crank fast and rubustly and normally, Y/n?
IF no those, then the battery is dead. (or bad wiring to fuse boxes, need details not stated here, )
if how ever cranking is ok, (100 amps the starter uses ) so that is more that enough to run any 4 amp fuel pump, for sure.
next is the 4 pins on the FR relay
if the pump shorts it will overload the ECU power feed wires called MAIN. we know it does that on 1/2 the pump failures ( open pump and shorted pump are both common failure mode)
this is because the wires used are tiny.
The ECU can even chatter relays like mad with near shorted fuel pump.
blk/wht = 12vdc keyon, full time key on,IG-coil line it is. (power pin)
pink- 0v or 12v are only valid here, never 5v ever. if you see 5v (4.64 = 5v) then below is wrong volts.
blu/blk= 12vdc key on, or for 3second or full time key on, and cranked. if you read 5vdc here the pump is short. (this is power pin)_
pink-blk = pump wire, 0v key off , then 12vdc (11v is common) key on for 3 seconds, then falls to 0v, but not if cranked if cranked 12vdc (11 or as slow as 10v cranked)
i can get by just knowing 4 voltages above, key on 3 second long time. just at prime time, what do you read for 3 seconds.
those 4 voltages are prime data.
if the pump shorts (or near) the main power relay output overloads. (pump shorts or the wires to it short)
I guess the car does not start and run , right? (cranks ok)
this is real easy , basic, electrics.
that Pink wire. must go to at least 11vdc key on for 3 seconds, or the wire is shorted. (or bad relay)
wires can open, or short.
pumps can go open or short
or the relay is bad,
I use amp meter to read pump current 4 amps good 10 bad. 15 bat, more than that the fuse blows.
no the 96 is same as 91, to 98 generations in how it works.
96 they moved the fuel pump relay to heater box, and you can swap relays there, seen with same P/N sure can.
the 4 pins are here.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/1996/EFI2.jpg
blk/wht = IG-coil fuse 12vdc, all the time. key on, power.
pink- ecu control line, 12vd key on, and 0v for 3seconds key just turned on and 0v cranking it relay energizes , CLICK
blu/blk= main relay out, 12vdc keyon, all the time key on, if not ECU goes dead. this is FI fuse. if 0v. FI blew, or main relay bad.
pink-bk - runs the pump that is all it does and gets its power from main out. 12vdc.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/1996/EFI1.jpg
i do not understand these 2 links (heard? is what you meant, closing?)
FP relay not closing.
Seeing 4.65v at ecm pin for three sec at key on the 0v with relay disconnected. (what Pin what color wire) my wild guess, is the solid pink wire, relay to ECU?
i do not have enough data from you,. on pump relaypin volages, for 3 second key on, all 4 pins matter for that 3 second, test.
4.6v is bad, for any key on event.
what do all pins read when you saw, 4.6v, key on for 3 seconds.
we already know 2 things on this car
1: the pumps can and do short.
2: when 1 happens and say 14amps flow, (partial shorts happen or say OVERLOAD inside pump) this overloads the ECU power feed, causing ECU go nuts. 4.6v = NUTS.
why would ECU cut the prime, answer it never does unless
you overload the blu/blk= main relay out wire.
when any FP relay fails, measure all 4 FP relay pins key for 3 seconds then after.
if you see main voltage drop, that is pump short or battery dread or cracked FI fuse.
which I had the basics first.
does car start and run, my guess n0.
does the starter crank fast and rubustly and normally, Y/n?
IF no those, then the battery is dead. (or bad wiring to fuse boxes, need details not stated here, )
if how ever cranking is ok, (100 amps the starter uses ) so that is more that enough to run any 4 amp fuel pump, for sure.
next is the 4 pins on the FR relay
if the pump shorts it will overload the ECU power feed wires called MAIN. we know it does that on 1/2 the pump failures ( open pump and shorted pump are both common failure mode)
this is because the wires used are tiny.
The ECU can even chatter relays like mad with near shorted fuel pump.
blk/wht = 12vdc keyon, full time key on,IG-coil line it is. (power pin)
pink- 0v or 12v are only valid here, never 5v ever. if you see 5v (4.64 = 5v) then below is wrong volts.
blu/blk= 12vdc key on, or for 3second or full time key on, and cranked. if you read 5vdc here the pump is short. (this is power pin)_
pink-blk = pump wire, 0v key off , then 12vdc (11v is common) key on for 3 seconds, then falls to 0v, but not if cranked if cranked 12vdc (11 or as slow as 10v cranked)
i can get by just knowing 4 voltages above, key on 3 second long time. just at prime time, what do you read for 3 seconds.
those 4 voltages are prime data.
if the pump shorts (or near) the main power relay output overloads. (pump shorts or the wires to it short)
http://www.fixkick.com