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Ultra hard cold start - IAC?
Mr. Fixkick,
Long time listener, first time caller.
I have a 1997 Tracker 4wd Auto, with a transplant 16v (G16B I believe). I bought to convert to a forklift, so I removed the body behind the rear axle, and relocated all components. No symptoms arose during these changes. It lives outside, and in the past year has developed a hard start that has gotten progressively worse. Now it is super-crazy hard to start and I only manage by cranking with gas pedal in various positions for 15 minutes. At first I hear only starter spin, no cranking sound. Giving a little gas makes it cough once. Flooring it makes it cough a little more often. Sometimes it will cough on its own, while in between tries, like it's not getting enough of something but builds up a little after multiple cranks. Eventually it turns over and runs really rough, dying without gas pedal. A minute of this and boom, purs like a kitten, idles great, no complaints. It will start up easily within a couple hours. A day later, back to square one.

New rotor, wires, starter, battery is charged. Codes 0113, 0135 and 0335. There is no CKP sensor, no wire that I can see.

If you can offer some guidance, I'd greatly appreciate it.
a Fork-o-kick. (not even as good as frankensammi or the like) seems to me like 97 EFI running a 95 engine.
well you are missing sensors, so the ECU runs in limphome mode, all that is normal for limp mode. rich, and misfiring
then when it gets hotter (engine coolant) the hot engine better burns up that super rich injections.

0113 is missing IAT sensor on the side of the air cleaner box rear.
0135 is front 02 sensor heater burned out, or wires to it fell off.
0335 ,CKP missing

so this is double limphome. there is only 1 cure.
fix missing.(or dead) sensors.

other causes of rich or worse
IAC dead below TB , stock closed, no startup air flow.
ISC wires cut. or ISC jammed (gummed up inside)
FPR bad, and jammed such that fuel pressure are all wrong at any RPM (too high)
PS. if the CKP worked the ECu would then show lots of other error, P0300 is misfire, and more o2 errors.
the ECU can not do all its full set of monitors, with 335 errors. its only running a few. now.

The good car, 97, the 02 sensor heat up is in about 10 seconds (heater dead no) and runs closed loop fast, making sure cold starts mix fuel based on exact temps read from ECT and IAT and MAF.
so this OBD2 magic too is dead, for cold starts.

Is the MAF missing too?
I just call it Tracklift until I can think of something cleverer. How do you know exactly 95 engine? Maybe G16B is wrong, that's what just what I thought from the reading. It has 16 valve on the valve cover and MPI.

Thanks for the quick response! I will check these sensors with your list and report back.

the 92 to 95 16vavle engine has no CKP sensor, no sensor port hole in the pan not the oil pump
the engine serial number G16Lnnnn L = letter code for engine year.
off my engine and body tag page
A = 1980
L = 1990
Y = 2000
A = 2010
B = 1981
M = 1991
1 = 2001
B = 2011
C = 1982
N = 1992
2 = 2002
C = 2012
D = 1983
P = 1993
3 = 2003
D = 2013
E = 1984
R = 1994
4 = 2004
E = 2014
F = 1985
S = 1995
5 = 2005
F = 2015
G = 1986
T= 1996
6 = 2006
G = 2016
H = 1987
V = 1997
7 = 2007
H = 2017
J = 1988
W = 1998
8 = 2008
J = 2018
K = 1989
X = 1999
9 = 2009
K = 2019

left side engine (left = driver seated, left side)
your engine if original
V = 1997
I replaced the O2 sensor and startup was not great, but not absurdly bad--although this coincides with the weather changing here, so I'm not sure if that changed anything. I tested the IAT and it seems ok, according to the generic youtube voltage test. There is an MAP (thing attached to firewall). Or is that MAF? I get confused.

Yesterday, my fuel pump died! Maybe that's been part of my troubles. I replaced the strainer and the little length of fuel hose (both totally disintegrating) and was getting 30 psi running pressure (40 to start), with quick pressure loss after shut down. Last couple days the pump would run intermittently with key-on, and today just before death, wild variations in pressure while running. I guess I need to check the tank for age issues too. Is there any difference between the various fuel pumps rock auto offers? I'm obviously leaning towards the cheapest.

"1997 Tracker 4wd Auto, with a transplant 16v (G16B I believe)"
no 97 has map well that is...
sure it has a EGR map sensor, but has nothing to do with injection, at all, the EGR MAP used for the 2 EGR tests, A and B OBD2 does, p-400 A and B failures
ok , the 16v engine has a MAF, or the EFI will bee locked on to limphome for ever, burning fuel like a pig; (and side effects , red HOT cat if present, and blackend spark plug tips.
the Air clear has the maf attached. see here . DTC error P0102 if maf is missing. (output stuck low)


the maf measure air flow (by MASS) and with that key fact the ECU matches fuel to the MAF air flow on all 16v and all OBD2 cars here.
it is not optional at all.
the fuel pressure on this car is controlled by the FPR, bolted to front of fuel rail.
as you idle engine, the pressure is very low, about 30psi at idle and drops to near 36 wide open throttle (or at key on, same 36psi)
When you key on it is at the highest pressure then with 19"Hg vacuum the pressure goes mid range about 30psi.
seems yours is working, the pressure drop key is caused by 3 things, bad check valve in pump, bad fpr leaking or leaking injectors. By pinching the return line we prove the FPR does not leak if pressure still drops. The tank cheap valve ball my be rusting and leaks making slower starts of engine until pressure goes higher.
The pumps sold there are just different quality factors.

here a graph i made.

[Image: reg-graph-mpi-g.jpg]

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