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Kick down cable remove???
How do you physically pull this cable out of the trans?!? Ive got it out past the O ring but there is a shaft that goes inside the tip of the kickdown cable and that shaft (spring loaded???) Is pulling out WITH the cable. How do you separate the two??? Thanks! #covered in trans fluid because i didnt expect it
what trans?
the 3speed and 4speed are not even close to the same, .
4speed is super hard, drop pan, drop valve body. part 20 seen here is end of cable fitting. only dropping valve body works here.

ok i see your other posts with 3speed.

3speed fits like this. much more easy.

that cylinder device plunger must be pulled?

FSM page 21. step 6

remove 90 degree TV clamp on 3speed box. figure 21
then figure 22, shows pulling cable to get the plunger back and get it disconnected. yes the manual is vague.
yes is spring loaded in the box or the cable would never retract, at idle.
i guess your old cable is still attached


this is all the book has, this 1 photo.
[Image: 3_15_10_18_2_44_52.jpeg]
Wowch. Ok i think i can see whats going on.. yes 3 speed. Thanks for a super fast respond! So from that pic i didnt know the cable was internally hooked through that plunger.. so im guessing i must undo cable from throttle body to get enough slack to pull cable sleeve back and then pop the actual cable out of the plunger.. my fear is... how hard will this be to get the cable hooked back into the plunger?! I have not lowered the trans at all. Only thing ive removed the the gear selector box and obviously the 90* bracket holding tv cable in.. ok. People say the shift shaft seal sucks? HA i laughed out loud at that job.. hell did it 3 times not knowing that the kick down was causing the leak..
Ok. I have some great pics to share later when i get on my pc. But YES you must disconnect the cable at the throttle body!!!! But not all the way.. i just loosned the stop nut and removed the cable from the bracket on the throttle body. But the end cable is still attached at the "bell" i went back under and pulled the cable and it poped right out. There is a hole in the plunger that the tv cable slides into... sadly my O ring looks just fine.. the rubber sheef is torn but the metal cable body sheef is not cracked. Im going to slather the exposed cable body metal in rtv (i dont think that could leak??? Rtv is for rust prevention) then replace the O ring with a universal kit O ring.. going back together looks..... not fun
ok im going to attempt to add some pics in hopes that some poor soul will stumble across this thread who needs similar help ., this is the 3 speed trans in a 1995 sidekick 2door (should have said that right off but i was in a panic state)

i was able to get the cable out, went to the parts store to try and find a new cable. was unable. tried 4 different places, they cant ever order one. my next attempt was to just get an O ring. same thing.. dont have, cant get. so i fished through their O ring master kit at 2 stores, couldnt find the perfect size.. walked out with one but to me its slightly thinner.. i went to harbor freight and bought both of there master O ring kits, metric and sae, total of 800 fING O rings.! of the 800... none were even close!!! on top of that these harbor f. O rings are junk. they have casting flash leftovers on them and they are a bit hard.. i will be taking them back., i ended up using the thin O ring that i had no confidence in... well first i tried a thicker HF O ring and could NOT get the cable back into the trans... just too big. (yea yea thats what she said... uugh), so i went with the thin one and it had just a tiny amount of friction and popped right in... not very confident in it i must say. BUT i believe if the O ring was torn or way way too small you would know RIGHT AWAY judging by how much fluid came out when i pulled the cable, oh btw be prepared to quickly loose about a qt of trans fluid out when you pull that cable!! it drains in 2 thick streams, ones on the vac modulator and one is by the shift shaft seal. (so when this leaks you automatically assume its the modualtor or shift shaft seal, or trans pan gasket 3 times (me!!) because it runs everywhere!!! and also very close to the dip stick tube... i sealed that too because i was fooled. and the tcc connector because fluid was on that side of the trans too! all caused by the damn kick cable., anyway started it up and no rush of fluid, drove it and all SEEMS ok. just a few drips from what im hoping/ guessing is left over because i didnt clean anything off (because i had no confidence in that O ring and didnt want to clean it multiple times) time will tell.                
wow, thanks for such nice photos of this tight spot.. of this JOB !!!
the 2wd car the rear of trans drops easy jack under tranny rear cross member. 4 huge bolts out.
but will take draining fluid, in most cases, for sure if you pull the rear spline U joint yoke.
how ever, dropping that member even a tad, gains better access to this TV plunger. valve.

yes that is the main OIL pressure gallery in the box. sure it holds ATF, all the time engine off. (pre primed like that)
use UV dye in the ATF to find leaks, like this, comes with dye, and UV flashlight and is like $15 tool.
with pan off any 3 speed, first trick is add a drain bolt, make all future work 10x more easy,

the cheap o-rings all get hard, and shrink at 180f running temps, and 25 years old. all do. expect them all to be bad.
Viton , are far better rings,

remember the oil leaks, all go where the wind blows, there is no assuming, ever on leaks for that one rule.alone and gravity is last if at all.

yes the TB end of cable is off first. always,
yes the TB end must be calibrated later and that end on a new cable has red ring maker on center cable for calibration steps.
thanks for the photos.
did you put those photos in gallery above in transmissions.
ok , i did one. (use silicon grease on all 0-ring insertions, or risk damage to them, cuts can happen. easy.)

added some photos to the 3L30 gallery here. and one of yours.

100x thanks for sharing photos. nothing beats photos. thanks.
the cable you pulled has plastic covering this is under tiny oil pressure.
the cable may have and inside center cable seal too, Ive never cut one up to see inside. ( but you can see the center cable is exposed to the plunger inside and gallery pressure behind that)
your cable is bad, $22 cable.
no cable like this runs for 25 years. sorry.

that sheath keeps water out, and oil from going the other way.
never trust wind to tell you where oil goes, wind = chaos, no human on earth can predict wind, or what it does under any car.
use UV dye kits. and short drives. only. or the DYE blows all over the place.
bad cable, replace cable.

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