12-02-2018, 03:04 AM
95 16v flood damaged car, good before the flood (hurricane) first let me say so sorry for you getting flooded.
bogging has many reasons, my guess ?
bog is not misfiring, right, but is rich, so does WOT have full power, full power up hills or is it undrivable.
?
flooding misfiring (and black smoke ) really is not lean burn bogging, they are opposites.
my guess pulling spark plugs now, all 4 tips are black, proving flood damage , if this car was 1996+ the CEL will flash telling you the CAT is melting,
your car has no OBD2 ECU. so is way dumber
id check compression first.
what if water got in 1 cyclinder and did damamge.
180 PSI on all 4 tested WOT is good. (even more warm hot engine at sealevel you are there, I know , as the flood did not happen in DENVER.
The idle vacuum needs to be 19" inches HG, and NOT BOUNCE;
the next thing that loves to happen on 89-65s is melted cat, coverter, like cork huge in the exhaust pipe end.
that same gauge used for vacuum above will show if the cat is no good.
its easy, if the gauge acts nuts with advanced throttle, then the CAT is melted close or near, some get so bad car can not start.
2000 rpm limited you said code 12 normal (2k rpm shows 2 on the dial, 2x 1000 = 2000 rpm)
new TPS
runs much better MAF unplugged, did you test the maf per my maf pages? easy with voltmeter, 1 pin test.
code 52 is not a good sign at all, 51 is EGR, but 53 is ECU sees its self bad (or wet) dry the ECU in and oven at 120f max. is best, or in hot attic, that hot. (summer gone)
on some 52 = injector errors. ah here is the rule.
Fuel Injector fail . ( 16V only) , ECT >= 158º, At Fuel cut mode (deceleration) and for 3 seconds the O² must see below 0.45V (note1.)
leave the diagnostic jumper inserted full time until the car runs right againk ok, so you will not miss errors that set then clear fast, oK?
o2 new, so skip that fix.
if the engines good
and all sensors read right the 02 will read wrong and will be at 1. vdc stuck there stuck high, if engine supper rich and black smoke sure o2 stuck high.1v. it see it and reports truth.
the ECT and IAT read correctly and TPS TP pin is 1v (about) at idle
and vacuum does not bounce
why not test the MAF per my maf page, we have no scan tools here that work on OBD1, so all progress is hard won,, by hand with voltmeter.
is fuel pressure at 30PSI at idle, does the FPR vacuum nipple dip fuel? with hose pulled, after run.? key off.
new spark wires cap and rotor, they dont like water, for sure old. spark is first after engine tests ok.
spark good and fueling is last.
can burn fuel with bad spark so.....
Ill assume the spark timing not changed.
lets test the maf (ECU is last, to condemn always) last.
keyon 1.0–1.6 volts
idle , 1.7–2.0 volts. at 800 RPm hot;
gun throttle high for 1 second hard, see voltage rise to 3v, or more if aggressive but go easy on engine.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/92-95MAF/...sting.html
try to know a weak maf will make engine lean and bog, and no fouled plugs, please tell what spark tips look like
never seen a maf stick at 5vdc out but that be bad, and DTC errors for sure.
if the fueling is wrong, lean or rich
i always check fuel pressure
at idle its 30 to 37PSI, no more , no less at hot 800rpm idle.
the ECU is blind to pressure, here and goes say rich above 37psi.
that is if for now, good luck to you .
bogging has many reasons, my guess ?
bog is not misfiring, right, but is rich, so does WOT have full power, full power up hills or is it undrivable.
?
flooding misfiring (and black smoke ) really is not lean burn bogging, they are opposites.
my guess pulling spark plugs now, all 4 tips are black, proving flood damage , if this car was 1996+ the CEL will flash telling you the CAT is melting,
your car has no OBD2 ECU. so is way dumber
id check compression first.
what if water got in 1 cyclinder and did damamge.
180 PSI on all 4 tested WOT is good. (even more warm hot engine at sealevel you are there, I know , as the flood did not happen in DENVER.
The idle vacuum needs to be 19" inches HG, and NOT BOUNCE;
the next thing that loves to happen on 89-65s is melted cat, coverter, like cork huge in the exhaust pipe end.
that same gauge used for vacuum above will show if the cat is no good.
its easy, if the gauge acts nuts with advanced throttle, then the CAT is melted close or near, some get so bad car can not start.
2000 rpm limited you said code 12 normal (2k rpm shows 2 on the dial, 2x 1000 = 2000 rpm)
new TPS
runs much better MAF unplugged, did you test the maf per my maf pages? easy with voltmeter, 1 pin test.
code 52 is not a good sign at all, 51 is EGR, but 53 is ECU sees its self bad (or wet) dry the ECU in and oven at 120f max. is best, or in hot attic, that hot. (summer gone)
on some 52 = injector errors. ah here is the rule.
Fuel Injector fail . ( 16V only) , ECT >= 158º, At Fuel cut mode (deceleration) and for 3 seconds the O² must see below 0.45V (note1.)
leave the diagnostic jumper inserted full time until the car runs right againk ok, so you will not miss errors that set then clear fast, oK?
o2 new, so skip that fix.
if the engines good
and all sensors read right the 02 will read wrong and will be at 1. vdc stuck there stuck high, if engine supper rich and black smoke sure o2 stuck high.1v. it see it and reports truth.
the ECT and IAT read correctly and TPS TP pin is 1v (about) at idle
and vacuum does not bounce
why not test the MAF per my maf page, we have no scan tools here that work on OBD1, so all progress is hard won,, by hand with voltmeter.
is fuel pressure at 30PSI at idle, does the FPR vacuum nipple dip fuel? with hose pulled, after run.? key off.
new spark wires cap and rotor, they dont like water, for sure old. spark is first after engine tests ok.
spark good and fueling is last.
can burn fuel with bad spark so.....
Ill assume the spark timing not changed.
lets test the maf (ECU is last, to condemn always) last.
keyon 1.0–1.6 volts
idle , 1.7–2.0 volts. at 800 RPm hot;
gun throttle high for 1 second hard, see voltage rise to 3v, or more if aggressive but go easy on engine.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/92-95MAF/...sting.html
try to know a weak maf will make engine lean and bog, and no fouled plugs, please tell what spark tips look like
never seen a maf stick at 5vdc out but that be bad, and DTC errors for sure.
if the fueling is wrong, lean or rich
i always check fuel pressure
at idle its 30 to 37PSI, no more , no less at hot 800rpm idle.
the ECU is blind to pressure, here and goes say rich above 37psi.
that is if for now, good luck to you .
http://www.fixkick.com