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1995 Tracker bog issue
except for leaded fuel this has not changed for 100 years. saw my first one,(card like this) in 1960s.
got carbon on all 4????????
not dripping in green antifreeze.(or your color AF)

[Image: verygoodsparkchart1a.jpg]
these are called J plugs
no other plugs allowed.
no surface fire or 2J or 3j OR 4j ALLOWED,
USE STOCK PLUGS. (Platinum is ok if J) we do not have HIGH ENERGY IGNITION .
so only stock plug work right here.
all 4. not 1.
all 4 carbon foul the old ngk plugs and I put new ac delco 4l-602 and very fast carbon foul not wet. coolant fine so is oil, they are not tainted or leaking. if i knew how to post video or pics i would. flood was in texas, fresh water not salt. what gets me is ran fine after dry out for several months (not hard driving) drove about 5 miles fine then next day start up and run like this,
nice video. and seems to me that is NOT spark related, at all.
but is flooding. (fuel rich) is my guess, 4 black spark tips. omg carbon on the GROUND rich now that is RICH!!!

check fuel pressure at 3 points to prove FPR is working
and then using hand vacuum tool at FPR vacuum nibble suck 26" (hand pump max) see pressure fuel hit 21psi.

the FPR on these old cars love to fail this old
and the ECU can not know this, no sensor like on new cars, for fuel pressure.

EFI this year is not super smart, like today.
and fuel pressure must be check fully first. on all cars this old. (even new if wise)
there are lots of test on any engine, that runs rich like yours.

does the engine warm up and reach and hold 180f, it not the ECT reads wrong and will flood fuel) this rule 1, as is IAC opens cold or will idle rich and stall.

1: FIRST IS THE ENGINE compression on all 4cyclinder, sparks out, WOT cranked, 180 to 200PSI.
2: next is vacuum testing, 19" inches HG at idle. the play with idle and make sure the vacuum does not act backwards(clogged cat)
3: it is not bad spark but? who knows? lacking misfires sensors 1996:
what the video shows is gross flooding and so bad it bogs. black earth, super rich for sure.
4: scans show 52, for rich, (and clears but 52s takes lots of driving flip this and well the 52s are real)
5: I dont think the ECU is bad or got wet or get contamination, but who knows, ?
6: we test the MAF next, even if replaced 5 times use a volt meter on the output pin, http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/92-95MAF/...sting.html
7: the maf power pins is 12vdc, (15vdc idle)
8: the ECU +5vdc Reference pin (runs sensors not maf, ) pin B6 seen here. http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/temp-sensors.html
9: ECT sensor volts are 3.7vdc 32f cold and at 180f drops to 0.7 Volts DC< backprobed. http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/temp-sensors.html
10 fuel pressure is next. 3 tests.
11: and injector tests, or clean them. they must not leak.

now let talk carbon, there is the horrible weakness in all narrow band 02 sensors.
simply said the carbon covers the 02 tips 100% forming a blanket of solid carbon, and this means it can not measure oxygen.
this confuses the ECU, this effect, and may do the wrong thing even go richer.
fuel injector leaks or huge fuel pressure, these Pre 1996 cars love to go too rich and was later cured of that problem. 1996+

the old cars have a too aggressive fuel trim rule set. (AKA, fuel trim authority too powerful)
so if say 2 cylinder misfire, that is 2 slugs of fuel rich, 20% oxygen, slugs, its pumping fuel and pure air.
this pure air makes the 02 go nuts lean and the ECU seen that and trims it max rich, way more rich than any 1996 or newer.
what is important is knowing this EFI is easy to fool and wants to do radical rich for 02 readings wrong.

What if the huge injector connector under the intake manifold. was water soaked and failed.
killing dead 1 injector.?
I use NOID lamp to see that or my magnetic injector tool to see the pulses are good.
the balance test would fail too hard.
that video
was engine hot?
did you remove the gas cap first to see if that cures bog?
hot failures and cold failures can be one bad or both bad,
at 150f water temp the ECU switches to hot run mode, and 180 to 195F is normal hot.
ok, finally got around to the fuel test today, turn key on 3 times about 35 psi,{no start?}
35 psi at idle,
throttle it up jumps to 40ish psi,
26 inch vacuum on FPR it is 30 psi.
1995 16v rail pressure or at the fuel filter test port 6mm tap plug???????????????????? if at filter is the filter new? (not 20 years old but newer?)

keyon only , 36 to 43 ( is 1 PSI low) {35} mine did 36 (both cars)sealevel , are you at sealevel , not Denver?
idle is 30-37 psi. {35} failed hard. the vacuum fails to make the FPR do its job. , mine drops to 30 PSI. a 6PSI drop caused by the vacuum 19" at idle.
gunned TV, must try to go higher, towards keyon only pressure but not quite, FAILS in fact is INVERTED far far worse that.

well now you know why and car this old fails for FPR readings, wild and wrong.
did you do the shunt test?
55psi is typical shows pump is ok this test.

this is how it works, data off good engine,efi and new FPR the right side is with a hand vacuum tool (simulating hard fast deceleration in gear)
the green words are for gingo ,, USA imperial measurements. (we are the odd ducks of the world)

[Image: reg-graph-mpi-g.jpg]

like the last poster with FPR failed, lets do the BUCKET TEST.
if the FPR fuel return line is connected to the wrong hose or the hose is clogged,or metal pipe on right inside frame rail is pinched or connect wrong back aft,
the FPR can not work right at all.
so we disconnect the fpr return line at fpr, and run a new test hose to there and a catch fuel bucket, (with fuel gauge in place on the rail) {30psi}
and if the FPR works now, we know what is wrong. beats spending $60 on a new FPR yet, ?

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