07-11-2018, 11:14 AM
I can’t remember what the fuse was. If the first one is actually a 60amp the P.O. had an 80amp in its place I changed it when I changed the battery wires and haven’t had a problem since.
Yes gaped to .028 and confirmed the gap recently when I checked them after changing the timing belt, torqued to 20ft lbs per Suzuki spec so I can rule out that they are at fault.
I have attempted calibrating the tps. By attempted I mean I followed the page on your site to the T so I’m thinking it is good now.
I could really hear the ISC beating itself to death before I installed the factory air box now I’m certain it needs cleaned or it has failed entirely. $200 purchase here I come lol.
The lamps work. But it seems I have to flip a switch to the light bar, turn the headlamps on then flip the light bar switch back off and they come on.
I did not set the VR gap! I have forgotten this step. I will read and set it immediately
This is interesting about the dizzy. Is there any more tests I can do to make sure it is good??
The ecu will flash 12’s all day yes.
I have turned idle speed screw CCW to set 750-850 rpm at idle hot. Is this the same screw as throttle stop screw? Or am I lost?
I will check the injector wires asap and report back
I pulled the ECU and it is in great condition it does have big rubicon caps on the corners though so I know they need changed. I did pull the ecu ground cable off the dizzy and by the thermostat and wire brushed the connectors to make sure they have a good connection. Could this be my problem?
How do I check if the fuel pressure is stuck high and if I have bad FPR? I have not seen any leaks on any hoses whatsoever as of lately. I have installed a new 02 sensor with new wires and all.
I’m certain you’re correct about the VR gap! I will research and check ASAP and yes I do not have a temp gun but I do it the old school way. Hand to top rad hose “Ow Mother F$#%$r” and take hand off lol
Thank you for the timely replies and the wisdom.
Yes gaped to .028 and confirmed the gap recently when I checked them after changing the timing belt, torqued to 20ft lbs per Suzuki spec so I can rule out that they are at fault.
I have attempted calibrating the tps. By attempted I mean I followed the page on your site to the T so I’m thinking it is good now.
I could really hear the ISC beating itself to death before I installed the factory air box now I’m certain it needs cleaned or it has failed entirely. $200 purchase here I come lol.
The lamps work. But it seems I have to flip a switch to the light bar, turn the headlamps on then flip the light bar switch back off and they come on.
I did not set the VR gap! I have forgotten this step. I will read and set it immediately
This is interesting about the dizzy. Is there any more tests I can do to make sure it is good??
The ecu will flash 12’s all day yes.
I have turned idle speed screw CCW to set 750-850 rpm at idle hot. Is this the same screw as throttle stop screw? Or am I lost?
I will check the injector wires asap and report back
I pulled the ECU and it is in great condition it does have big rubicon caps on the corners though so I know they need changed. I did pull the ecu ground cable off the dizzy and by the thermostat and wire brushed the connectors to make sure they have a good connection. Could this be my problem?
How do I check if the fuel pressure is stuck high and if I have bad FPR? I have not seen any leaks on any hoses whatsoever as of lately. I have installed a new 02 sensor with new wires and all.
I’m certain you’re correct about the VR gap! I will research and check ASAP and yes I do not have a temp gun but I do it the old school way. Hand to top rad hose “Ow Mother F$#%$r” and take hand off lol
Thank you for the timely replies and the wisdom.
1989 Suzuki Sidekick, 1.6L, 8V, 4wd, 2 Door, Covertible, fiberglass top or rag top
1995 Geo Tracker, 1.6L, 8V, 2wd, 2 Door, Covertible, Parts Car..worth every penny
1995 Geo Tracker, 1.6L, 8V, 2wd, 2 Door, Covertible, Parts Car..worth every penny