Ecu pull

[fixkick]

what is the car doing wrong?

I guess I will start at the beginning.

I bought the car from a guy that new little about it and he said it kept dying and wouldn’t start back up and he replaced the alternator. I hen I seen the battery was 5 years old I knew immediately the battery was junk and probably ruined his new alt so I put a new battery in it drove it home got the alt tested(junk), got a new alt and installed it.
I also checked all the fuses they were good, replaced older looking ones for good measure cause I had some on hand and checked the bus fuses. The main bus fuse had a 60amp fuse when it called for 40 if I remember right.
see page 12
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/89/1990-scan-...lpages.pdf
the 60amp blows when the alternator shorts. or someone changes out the alternator and not pull the battery NEG lug first.
boom blows.
60,40,30,30 are the 4 fuses , last one 30 is only for AT/ manafold heater PTC that you do not have.


It was blown so I replaced it with the correct fuse, changed the positive and negative battery cables and went about my day. I also gave it a tune up. Changed: spark wires and plugs(ngk one specified under the hood), gaped to 0.028 " right>?

distributor cap and rotor, ig coil, thermostat(has correct paper gasket), upper and lower(2) radiator hoses, temp sensor(gave a code 13), water pump, timing belt, idler pulley, valve cover gasket, water pump gasket, and I swapped out my tps(kept giving me a code 45) with one I had on a 95 8v parts tracker.
the TPS must be calibrated to work,.. more later

Whew that’s a lot sorry.
Most of this stuff that I did actually need changed either it was past it’s prime or the ecu sent me a code.
The car also had a spectre cone air filter in place of the stock box.
I took the one that was on my parts tracker since the box said SUZUKI anyways lol and installed it as well.
I also installed a stock dome light too.

Some of the problems I’ve encountered have been:

My ISC wasn’t working correctly, I believe I’m in need of a new one in the future(beats itself to death) upon inspection of this the wires were cut from a previous owner! So I had to bypass the shared pigtail and just splice them together.
ISC love to fail this old. and even make noises, it moves 200 times a second and after 25 years dies.(gets loose, jams ,rattles and fails)

It seems to work half the time... I’ve cleaned the grounds for the ecu as best as I can without replacing the stock eyelets. I’ve noticed after it warms up my dash lights all work now fancy that!
but? not? see page 11 same PDF, use voltmeter to find the deal lamp power feed. if power is there the lamp just burned out.
Not the oil, brake, seatbelt ones, I’m talking about the speedo, tac, fuel, temp/A.C. settings, and everything that is ran off of the dash illumination knob on the far left of the dash. (dead? lamps all those?) pins 19/20 run the illum lamps in cluster.(dimmer) if 0v across those pins the dimmer is bad, or not wired.
do the park/tail lamps work, and the tail fuse not blown?




A previous owner also put a new horn button on because I guess the steering wheel stopped working. They also bypassed the key ignition and installed a flip switch to power the car on and off and a push button to crank the engine....and the key is only used for making sure the steering wheel doesn’t lock. Since I pulled the ecu I’m in the process of fixing all of this crazy business so it will be back to normal.

Distributor timing: like I stated in an earlier post the car seems to not want to go over 55mph without a little back fire and the tachometer goes crazy after 3000 rpm. (tacho crazy cam be bad distributor or coil ,set the VR gap in the distrib base? VR + Igniter inside is there. know to fail.

When I checked my distributor timing the other day it was crazy!
If I had the dizzy all the way retarded it wouldn’t go under 15 BTDC according to the light and it isn’t hitting the same spot as it should every time kind of bounces around...
the car the ECU is fuel only ECU.
the ECU never sets more changes, spark advance, ever.
so all distrib bounces is from IT ,or its bad.
the mech, and vacuum advance , is centrifugal, and vacuum (both can fail side if parts loss or wrong)
the spark should not fail, as in distrib signal dropping out, if does, the VR (reluctor coil, ignitor ,or main spark coil is bad)

I also tried pinching the vacuum hose on the distributor to see if this would freeze the timing but it didn’t really help....I’m assuming I’ve done something wrong at some point or I’m not timing it correctly or something idk...
you did nothing wrong, but if the timing light at say spark one wire or main coil wire, is seen to misfire, the distrib is bad.(or main spark coil)

http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/89-timing.html

This leads my to my Diagnostic Jumper...I have 2. I have the usual diag fuse in the cab(the drivers left knee box bottom right corner). I also have the white 4 pin connector by the battery box! Very confusing because everything I’ve read on the 89 says it’s supposed to have the one in the cab and that’s it.
not ture, there are 3 cars here, Japan made, Iwata, the suzuk cami and tracker cami cars.
the tracker is very different in many things even cab fuse box way diff rent and no diag jumper fuse in the tracker.
here is tracker
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/gm-fu...9-p1-1.JPG
here is sidekicks
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/89/Fuse-with-diag.jpg

both cars have the BATTERY DLC,
why ? because there are other pins on the battery side DLC. for Dutycycle is one.the solid violet wire is DC pin called check therminal. blue-yell is DIAG jump.'
the under hood connect DLC 2 two features not one.
i do not know how to use or set the Duty cycle with the Violet wire, connected to a duty meter in the shop.
my guess is you find tune the stop screw to 50% duty on the meter. hot,


There is also another pigtail beside my DTC jumper by the battery box, I believe it is a 3 pin though. Do you have any idea what this would be used for? I know 91 and up the dizzy is different and this other pigtail would be used to freeze the timing but in my case the ecu isn’t supposed to control spark so I’m clueless..

I’m getting 15mpg so I assume I’m in Limphome mode (YES)
but does the ECU flash 12s? if the , ECU is lost we say, not in limp.
eCU can go to limp mode, (CEL flashing any code but 12s, ) or CEL lamp dead, or ECU normal but is lost. (sky high fuel pressure can do that.
as can o2 sensor stuck at 0volts.


I can get my idle down to 850 now when warm(I had a vacuum leak from the valve cover when I first bought it), and I think the other air filter would mess with it as well. The air filter will not change idle speeds (unless solid packed in mudd)

a vacuum leaks means below the throttle plate valve (TV) or the plenum below. and in all cases you get too high idle and full engine power
if the ISC is dead, the idle has lost control of idle speeds, did you turn the throttle stop CCW yet?

I’ve had the Diag jumper in the last couple weeks when I drive it to try to get running codes and haven’t gotten any besides 12.
good ! nice way to do this too.
are the injector wires unmolested? red and yellow, just wires to the ECU no other things violating those 2 key wire?


Like I said earlier when I didn’t tighten the dizzy bolt down all the way while running my codes would be interrupted sometimes. Like it would be repeating code 12 and sometimes blink once and wait a while then continue.(blink...blink,blink......blink...........blink....blink,blink)
Id say the ECU has ground missing , such that when playing with distrb, it has ground too to the ecu and now you interrupt it and make the ECU reboot. or bad caps in ECU. with bad caps, weaker grounds cause the eCU to go nuts.


I’m not sure if it was because stupid me forgot to tighten the bolt and it was messing with it or if that would effect it at all because when this would happen I was going 55mph in 5th gear so it’s not like I was at a low rpm.




I think that is everything

very good report, very clear the issues.

Off top of head.
fuel pressure stuck high?, bad FPR?, does its vacuum nipple leak fuel?> bad.
02 senors 1 wire, try new o2 yet, ? one that is not stuck at 0vdc.?

map hoses ok, no clogs end to end or cracks, it must flow good vacuum down that line, end to end. (the MAP blocks the end but vacuum must be live and active at the MAP nipple.
if engine misfires only , I bet the VR in the dissy is bad. use the strobe lamp (timing lamp) it must flash in prefect beats no skips ever.
mpg will be bad with misfire. each miss is wasted fuel.
engine reaches 180f? water temp, rad hose top, hot, hand goes there and flies off, ouch, is just right.
cheers to you.