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Japanese 89
03-31-2018, 08:28 AM
Post: #1
Japanese 89
Aloha,

My 89 tracker was made in Japan. I'm having a beast of a time figuring out the surging idle. I tested my TPS it seems to be good. I put the jumper wire in the clip so I could get a code read out and the check engine light just stays on. My fuse box has a Diagnostics fuse. I've tried this with and without both.

The EGR is like over $200 and then there's the unit right above it that helps it. The EGR seems to work the diaphragm goes in and out when I suck on it I don't have a vacuum tool.

If anybody can help me figure out how to get the codes plus any Source where I might be able to buy parts. It's got a hundred and twenty thousand miles on it and it's been pretty baby. So I really want to get it running good all the chassis and moving parts are all solid.

Mahalo for your help
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03-31-2018, 09:51 AM (This post was last modified: 03-31-2018 09:57 AM by fixkick.)
Post: #2
RE: Japanese 89
welcome to you, from the 50th state, 5-OH'
Cold surge or hot, I bet HOT.
to get the USA federal tracker CEL to work right you must first disable the NAG switch , then and only then can the fuse diag jumper work and flash. codes.
suzuki has parts, many are now discontinued.
Rockauto has tons of parts for car.
89 with VIN starting in J means its made in japan as the filter 3 month the were, then 2CN , VIN prefix car, are all made in CAMI, (Europe has Hungary and SPAIN made too)
so drives ok otherwise, 8v engine, 5speed stick shift, and 4wd or 2wd?
the surge is vacuum leaks.
the ECU goes nuts with leaks.
the leaks cause surging because the ECU cant old hot idle at 800 rpm. so surges like mad to find 800, an illegal idea today, for sure with A'T transmissions.

first lets do nag. (only on FED car, not California or canada or any other country, it's a USA thing only)
we now go to nag page
Slide this switch, or remove it. (it is useless...)


http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/NAG-Lamp.html

now it flashes 12s. on demand if no horror failures.
code 51 is bad EGR.

now surge.
1: the TB er, throttle body, has on the right side face it a DP,dash pot. it must hold idle fast cold at 1500 rpm about and then 3 to 30 seconds latter, 5 in hawaii. it fully retracts.
that means it has gap in the end of the DP pushrod. air space,
next is TV closed.
the throttle valve is near closed, the throttle cable needs, 10mm slack, foot off throttle pedal.
next are vacuum leaks.
one trick on 89, is to find the throttle stop screw, (no touch 91+) but this screw can be unscrewed say 1/2 a turn and the ISC may wake up. and stop surging.
vacuum hoses cracked, or fell off.

the screw is here, so is DP.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...age_2.html
turn it ccw, counter clock wise, 1/2 turn of 1 turn,, if no hot idle fix 800 rpm, head lamps off, blower off (heater) no defrost on. no AC on.
then put it back those turns if not a cure.

and find the vacuum leak.
its not easy, lots of places to leak
they can leak here.
[Image: 90_EFI-1w.jpg]

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03-31-2018, 09:55 AM
Post: #3
RE: Japanese 89
see that blue arrows, from TPS TV PLATE down? to the intake valves left.
all those and all hoses can leak air. I pinch them to find them leaking if RPM drops.

the air leaks causes high idle , way to high , so high the ISC controls can not not control hot idle.
you do not have the bleed screw in dotted lines.
even the brake booster can leak air as can its huge hose.(rubber)

good luck finding it. its not easy.

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03-31-2018, 12:46 PM
Post: #4
RE: Japanese 89
1000 mahalos ill use this^^ to start with!
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03-31-2018, 12:53 PM
Post: #5
RE: Japanese 89
Vin# jgyrcbj18u7kw83265

Otherwise runs well low mpg though and yes when it's hot it surges. I used a butane torch today, I'll try some more only did around TB.
You're the best! Still lil naive to the terminology
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03-31-2018, 02:33 PM (This post was last modified: 03-31-2018 02:34 PM by MatiLaino.)
Post: #6
RE: Japanese 89
Btw 8v 4wd i dig it!!
I got a 7 acre coffee so I'm using it to drive up and down the mountain with Farm Supplies.
It's been treaded on real lightly so I want to get it top shape it's got 108 thousand miles on it
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03-31-2018, 11:02 PM
Post: #7
RE: Japanese 89
108k is near new. it can go 300k easy, if serviced.

first get it hot and surging., i must assume it does not surge cold. right?
turn the TB stop screw 1/2 turn, CCW
now ill do that in non ASE (SAE) jargon, turn the Throttle body stop screw, CCW, counter clockwise, 1/2 a turn.
run better now? ;ENDS SURGE?

ALL the EFI parts (electronic fuel injection parts have names , standardized since 1989
see my short ,list,, my web page fixkick.com has them all covers and with real photos. in color,

http://www.fixkick.com/JARGON.html

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04-01-2018, 09:58 AM
Post: #8
RE: Japanese 89
Got it im bout 80% comprehension first time wit dis level of mechanics balls deep so to speak
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04-01-2018, 10:08 AM
Post: #9
RE: Japanese 89
Awesome info 1,000 mahalos again.

I did turn that screw back but I turned it back too much and the throttle valve stuck. I discovered this when I stepped on the pedal and it wouldn't move. I kind of freaked out so I went to my Bros with my toolbox and took apart the whole throttle body and cleaned it. I also cleaned out the EGR a bunch and tested the TPS. Again I don't have a vacuum tester so I was just sucking on the tubes to make the EGR move and that other guy that keeps the idle high seems to be holding its seal and functioning. I realized that backing up that screwed too much made the throttle valve stick so I adjusted it just perfectly so the valve is completely closed but not sticking. I do need to replace the TB gasket though and that's my next move.
I'm going to follow your instructions on getting it Diagnostics today see if I can get any further. I'm also going to pinch all the hoses and run my butane torch a little more around the hoses not just around the TB.
Mahalo Nui!!
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04-01-2018, 10:43 AM
Post: #10
RE: Japanese 89
yes, that will happen, and for sure with vacuum leans, so one closed it too much to hide the leak and fails.CCW is closed TV.
just screw it back to where it was, counts.
its just stop screw just like all CARBs had.
the vacuum lines pinch them if rpm drop or surge ends, you have line in the line or the object on the end of the line is leaking.
the map sensor line must be hand inspected, and both nipples on both ends not packed in gunk or the filter on that line
the EGR hoses, pinch them.
inspect the DASH pot first make sure it retracts after starting car, it MUST this is first, first.
the ISC can fail too, it can stick open ISC is that thing on left facing TB, 2 wires, looks like cyclinder, its valve that controls idle.
it has gaskets that can leak. air.
cracked PCV hose.
all hoses to the induction plenum (area below TB is that) causes a huge fast idle speed, and surge.
it can be overwelming the possible pathes for leaks, even the TB gaskets in the middle can leak, 91 to 95, Im not sure on 89/90
The TB body has air hole pathes inside, for the ISC and IAC, that can leak.
the IAC in the base of the TB can fail, if its water hose is clogged, this causes it to run too cold and not go past 150f water temp there, and the valve sticks open
sorry I forgot to say 1st the water temp most be 180f or more, hot, not 140f, or the EFI locks up in cold running mode, and goes mad.

one more trick is find a way to unplug the ISC 2 wires, on 91 this kills the injector, but i forget on 89 if it is 2 pin connector, or shared. it is 2 wires for sure.
if the ISC is unplugged, rpm goes to like 400 hot. engine shacks.
this is normal, if RPM stays high, there is a vacuum leak. hot. all comments by me are hot engine 180f+

cold RPM are bag of worms #2. LOL

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