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96 tracker check engine light fraud?
#1
I recently bought an old 96 tracker, and I just discovered that the engine computer is throwing some codes, but the check engine light isn't on.

I look under the dash, and I see this plug just hanging out, not connected to anything, with some odd butt-connector splices behind it.

What is this plug? I have been digging through the Haynes manual for some time with no luck.

And can anybody tell what the purpose of these two splices might be?


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#2
what codes
the stock car has large number of unused connectors. for options not installed day 1 new. lots, like cruise? and DRL, day light running lights. the , dinger box, does the chime work , for example key left in the ignition switch then open drivers door.?buzzzzz... ok found it.



what codes,?
the lamp for CEL is burned out or sell removed it, it dont matter the scan too shows like one, MIL active or not, (CEL active)(
let me guess P0400? DTC?

how to bypass DRL easy.
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/DRL/Index.html

wire color s there tell what it is, the 96 full manual is online, moved again..by owmer, ACKFAQ

i found your connector, it is DRL
here it is
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/DRL/95-97DLR-USA.pdf

nice butcher job, sure.
we use Haynes and chiltons for door stops. (why? easy, they mix years and parts in toxic soup of lies, mixing up 2 engines, and 89-98 year range, is a mess there, horrid lies, told there) but sure $15 cheap books are just that, great safety warnings sure.
why not use a real book, from Suzuki (GM geo trackers.)
here it is
costs $0

he keeps moving, it. but there it is, evens says dont link it, gee why would we link web pages..??????

http://www.acksfaq.com/HTML/trackerfsm.htm
http://www.fixkick.com
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#3
one down , send more ,grin !
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#4
Wow thanks!

The codes it's throwing are actually

P0125 - Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control
P0335 - Crankshaft position sensor A circuit

which I think would probably be unrelated to that? But I don't know jack about cars.

The odometer is broken, right front speaker is blown, and the climate control air director isn't moving well, so I probably will pull the instrument panel at some point to try to fix some of these things. I guess I should go through all the bulbs in the instrument cluster too while I'm in there?

Also: any idea where I can get some of those little plastic gears to fix the odometer in this thing? Or you think I should just order a whole new instrument cluster?
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#5
so the ECU does not lie about this, (only p0400 DTC (EGR) are kinda ok to get, all others not)
125 means after a very long time (ECU counter counts a long long time) and them tje ECT reads wrong, 180f is good, 300 ohms par. if way lower temp the thermostat is missing or bad or WRONG, or ECT is bad or the wires to it damaged, the scan tool would tell you what it reads in 5min work , scan ECT ?
125 means ECT reads dead WRONG. FOR SURE. see the 300 ohms test here? ( 2 causes thermostat 99% time or bad ECT rear)
125 can also be 02 sensor front bad, or stuck for any reason, 125s are very hard to diagnose but above order is best.
using a real scan tool you see ECT reads 180f in a timely manor tells you the 02 is reading wrong so you then look at 02 sensor . on the scan tool.

http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/temp-sensors.html
start the engine run it till fully hot. heater temps show max hot, felt, if heater is dead, well, ... thermost stat bad.
here is the mech, way to do that, get engine fully hot, (10miles does that) and open hood, put hand on top rad hose, hand flies back , ouch 180f is hot.
easy no, and costs zero. (if unsure try a new car, learn what 180f feels like then do this car)

run the engine until fully hot, is the thermostat 22 year old, if yes, its hopeless.
ok thermostat is new or works, no old one ever works right, just like,belts,battery and fluids. short lived, 7years is max life. (age matters)

then pull the ECT connector, do not force it ,it has locks (hint connectors not sold) push the unlock tab pull connector measure sensor with ohm meter (DMM) 300 ohms is spec.



The ECU will never run right with either failure. for sure the above, puts the EFI in to cold start mode, like an car 1970 with CARB and the choke stuck on, ever drive one like that and it run
super bad, misfires and floods easy.?
335 means that sensor is dead,. on the front crank pulley bottom.
did some one put a 1992 -1995 engine in this car and forget this sensor is needed?
see my 96 (usa)
http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/ckp-sensor.jpg

suzuki nor any one else, sells gears inside, the speedo, the outside end of cable gears, easy on the 4wd transfer case end housing , yes

are you saying the speed clock works, and only the Odometer fails.? or both? both is cable bad, or cable end at transfer case is bad.


any scan tool works with this car, even one made in 1996, to now. even $25 ones, work. got a OBD2 scan tool ? if in uSa it works, if in canada some only went to OBD2 in 1998

The cluster, fixed all my clusters, with 2 or 3 spares all bad, and made one, good cluster,
or just bad cable , it fails by cable snaps, or the bottom end cable as it fits the trans gear snaps right there, its easy to test a cable.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/speedo/un...speed.html

is your car tranny 3sp./4sp, 5sp manual, and 4wd, and 2doors? be nice to know what car it is first, so my harness drawings match, and can answer with accuracy.

125 can also be exhaust manifold cracks, near the front 02 sensor (oxygen sensor) or the sensors is just bad, as all are 22 years old.
125 means engine runs poorly most times rich and misfires and fouls spark plugs and gets poor gas mileage, mine got 28mpg best cruise 26 in town.
the cKP dead,
this kills dead the ECUs misfire detection,so blinds you to many other simple problems. like P0300, 301,302,302, and 304 dtc misfire errors.
not good that. never good.,
http://www.fixkick.com
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#6
when i said scan toolI meant exactly that, not a $8 code reader only device,
a scan tool can read all sensor live. and is super useful for all cars USA 1996 to 2018 (today)

even my cheap "maxiscan" from harbor Freight ™ store, works good.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/Authority/A_F..._scan.html
http://www.fixkick.com
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#7
125 codes are complex, but fix the bad crank sensor first. i bet the wires fell off it.? or engine swaps from hell caused.?
then run the car, on the road
and scan it again, got more codes?, if yes this can help greatly.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#8
125 means the ECU can not control hot fueling rates. (lots or causes possible , we check the easy things first)
it means closed loop fails, closed loop means , fuel rates are not rich, but closely controlled by the ECU and the 02 sensors. at hot cruise and hot idle.
this is system is what allows EFI to get great fuel economy and as side benefit , low smog and CAT converter not burned up and damaged.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#9
Well, I re-pinned the CKP sensor's plug, the wires had been ripped out because somebody thought it was a great idea to zip-tie them to the stabilizer bar, which moves as you steer. Sigh. So the CKP sensor code is gone now, seems OK.

I also replaced the thermostat, so the engine seems to be running warmer now. Cleared the codes, been driving it around town for a couple of days, no more codes yet. But just tonight I got a "provisional" P0125 in the codes, so it seems like it's thinking about throwing that code again.

I did a full live-data scan of it sitting idling in the OReilly parking lot, and a couple of pictures of the scanner output are attached. Anything in there look out of range?

   
   
1996 Geo Tracker LSi, 3spd automatic, 1.6L 16 valve
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#10
omg that is wild zip tied to STABL. bar.. wow.
and yes a new thermostat is very good, even ones that are old and only slow , now the engine warms up faster, (good) and passengers get heat faster, lots faster.
The CAT converter lasts longer, no overheated from slow warmup.
p0125 Pendings. I think i this case it's an old code. means slow warm up, or more complex causes. (like bad 02 sensor front)
all that means is its real but not set yet, some codes take up to 3 driving cycles to set, (store)
your data looks good.
now the misfire monitors are working for the first time since, Mr, Tie warp did his deed.
if it has full power up hills hot, it's a runner.

to erase old DTC error codes. (history)
1: pull the dome fuse. for 1min or so, put back fuse.
2: push reset with the scan tool
3: drive them off, can take 3 driving cycles to drive off many DTC errors, this is the painful way. works though.

if any of those fail to clear a DTC error, it means it's real.
http://www.fixkick.com
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