96 pontiac sunrunner bad idle miss bog

[Barkerman77]

sorry i cant see your car, not now ,
I can only fix stock cars, modified is engineering work. (race car stuff and and endless topic, and vast issues)
ok it ran ok before, sure.
got it.
but what are the 4 pressures tests, done correctly.

I do this, using the correct way, at the fuel rail pressure, using he $10 adaptor seen on my 16v pump page. best of the best this, so you can do injector leak down tests and not go mad.
or now we know, the stock banjo's are gone and with hit the test port, so use at TEE fitting.
there is NO OTHER WAY to test pressure,
the FPR love to fail now, after 22years, vast posts online now, for FPR dead, even the vacuum port leaks fuel, yup dead.
the tests are: (not shunt shunt test is 60psi not 30 ever. at least 60 sure 70 is ok)
1: key on , no start , pressure.
2: idle pressure.
3: throttle gunned hard pressure.(rises by 6psi , if not there will be no power from engine, no 95HP possible)

if not in spec the ECU will never ever inject correctly,. how could it , The ECU cant see pressure (likenew cars can), and that is #1 issues on all EFI made, pressure must be in spec.

id do not know your driving symptoms.
1: misfiring?
2: bogging.
3: hot and cold engine or just one. or both.
4: hot idle at 800 rpm?
5: fails at idle only or only accelerating or only on hills or only flat easy cruise at say 45mph. ? or all modes fail? hot and cold>????
6: water temps good 180+f hot, not 150 not 160 ever, are not good.
7:engine shakes hard at idle. (misfiring)
8: spark plugs fouled. black.
9: engine floods.? wet spark plug tips any of the 4, (injector failures)
10: engine compression ok WOT. 180psi

The scan tools works here, in usa, for 1996,up, is yours car using OBD2 ECU, the 16pin DLC connector above right shin bone is it, 16 D-shell shaped, female pins>?
some canada cars only run OBD2 in 1998, by law there.
and makes diagnoses far more easy if it is OBD2. for sure. scanning it, for DTC errors.

Ive no problems at all with non stock tanks or pumps,(i know how to do it correctly but others systems are totally infinite ways)
what matters only are the pressure tests all 3 and shut.

i even have a portable fuel pressure sender so i can test on hills at full 95HP output, finds the hard nut cases, under full load. most time not ever needed, but I can do it.

both hot and cold it runs crappy.
missfires under acceleration if over .25 throttle
lopes on idle
in low range we are testing it around the yard and cant get second gear to rev out at all because of the bog/missfire.
so for the most part it kind of seems to be pointing to the fuel pressure.
if the fuel pressure regulator is dud what will it do ? over fuel or underfuel and send everything back to tank?
while its sputtering and running rough at idle i pulled the vacuum line off the regulator nothing changed. it still ran rough. revving it up was still the same as before. i blocked the vacuum line when i pulled to just to be clear.

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our car 1996, has crank sensor (bottom front of front engine crankshaft main pulley)
and this. the OBD2 DLC is here, on all ours, got one of these nice puppies>?


http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/1999.jpg

yes it is a obd 2