filling up any cooling system takes lots of careful steps, burping out all starting car 3 times. burping, then driving around block and cool and burp and fill until it takes not more 50% coolant. (cool, fill, burp, start, let water rise up the fill cap off hole, then kill engine, then cap it and drive around block.
then let it cool, and off the cap and if low add coolant, cap on rad back, drive around block stop , now cool cap off, low? fill again, and repeat,
only this way gets out all the air ,your shop guy knows who to burp out all air, there are even some tricks but varies by car, some cars, my jeep front bumper jacked 4 feet in air, does that(in the jeep manual too)
saying didnt over heat is so wrong. sorry but here is why.
best is a tow home, in all cases, unless found the leak early and filled up fast and ended the leak now, you can bypass the heater hoses to end leak hose there.
did you know the temp gage, sensor is the top part of the coolant loop and when coolant falls, below that sensor (air pocket) the gauge reads low, reads air temp there, now and lies low.
fooling drivers,. that it did not over heat but did, hope im wrong, but below says no.
i bet you warped the head. that is why the overflow tank is blasting, with exhaust pressure landing there.
a Compression test is next, the tool is $20 and done with the throttle blocked open and spark defeated.
http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html
bet 2 fail, and next to each other (the weak spot)
how I saved mine, it failed the heater hose crack deal
stopped fast at first wiff of antifreeze , and slight steam on hood seams., open hood sure leaks,
i let it cool. say so hoses are just cool enough, and I bypassed the heater hose, 1 was good other not, so looped the good hose, fitting to fitting
screwed down the clamps, im on the turn pike off on grass area. say 50ft from road.
i walk to the nearest place to find water and a bucket or old milk 1gal jug, ok got some free water
walk back, fill it up
drive 15mile home safe. no damage. (grin)
that is how I fixed mine last time it happened.
today , autoclub card. call. CELL.
a tow is usually 1/10th cost of engine, even, 1/30th.
then let it cool, and off the cap and if low add coolant, cap on rad back, drive around block stop , now cool cap off, low? fill again, and repeat,
only this way gets out all the air ,your shop guy knows who to burp out all air, there are even some tricks but varies by car, some cars, my jeep front bumper jacked 4 feet in air, does that(in the jeep manual too)
saying didnt over heat is so wrong. sorry but here is why.
best is a tow home, in all cases, unless found the leak early and filled up fast and ended the leak now, you can bypass the heater hoses to end leak hose there.
did you know the temp gage, sensor is the top part of the coolant loop and when coolant falls, below that sensor (air pocket) the gauge reads low, reads air temp there, now and lies low.
fooling drivers,. that it did not over heat but did, hope im wrong, but below says no.
i bet you warped the head. that is why the overflow tank is blasting, with exhaust pressure landing there.
a Compression test is next, the tool is $20 and done with the throttle blocked open and spark defeated.
http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html
bet 2 fail, and next to each other (the weak spot)
how I saved mine, it failed the heater hose crack deal
stopped fast at first wiff of antifreeze , and slight steam on hood seams., open hood sure leaks,
i let it cool. say so hoses are just cool enough, and I bypassed the heater hose, 1 was good other not, so looped the good hose, fitting to fitting
screwed down the clamps, im on the turn pike off on grass area. say 50ft from road.
i walk to the nearest place to find water and a bucket or old milk 1gal jug, ok got some free water
walk back, fill it up
drive 15mile home safe. no damage. (grin)
that is how I fixed mine last time it happened.
today , autoclub card. call. CELL.
a tow is usually 1/10th cost of engine, even, 1/30th.
http://www.fixkick.com