just with steps 1 to 4, the engine will run on test fuel spray.
keep in mind the ECU does not create spark nor control it
but the ECU will cut fuel if it thinks (tacho)line is dead, (measured it is full time)
the compression is ok. in fact super good,. most do 155 cold. sea leave 8v.
firing order wrong 1,3,4,2
front plug is #1
the problem here is the 8v and 16 turn rotor opposite, and many books (vast) show the wrong order, thinking they are same (not)
the 8v turns CW. you can watch it to prove that. so the wires a layed down CW not CCW.
use a timing light,? yet? cranked?
RPM is OK.
orange can mean the rotor is firing between cap terminals timed wrong.(grossly off)
the engine runs with no fuel in the tank, (spray started) and can be kept going doing that.
this is like goal 1, doing that .
after that we work injections. last.
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/89-timing.html
even a timing light works cranking any dead engine, a magical $20 tool....
keep in mind the ECU does not create spark nor control it
but the ECU will cut fuel if it thinks (tacho)line is dead, (measured it is full time)
the compression is ok. in fact super good,. most do 155 cold. sea leave 8v.
firing order wrong 1,3,4,2
front plug is #1
the problem here is the 8v and 16 turn rotor opposite, and many books (vast) show the wrong order, thinking they are same (not)
the 8v turns CW. you can watch it to prove that. so the wires a layed down CW not CCW.
use a timing light,? yet? cranked?
RPM is OK.
orange can mean the rotor is firing between cap terminals timed wrong.(grossly off)
the engine runs with no fuel in the tank, (spray started) and can be kept going doing that.
this is like goal 1, doing that .
after that we work injections. last.
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/89-timing.html
even a timing light works cranking any dead engine, a magical $20 tool....
http://www.fixkick.com