answering for this; inline.
that isc i put on from the junk yard car i know closed 100% i tested it with my mighty vac. (isc nor iac use vacuum)? me confused here.
But I feel that it's being commanded open a bit for no reason...
like if I unplug it.. the idle drops "by" 100rpm or so... To what? please use real numbers for rpm ,they matter what.
So on a hot running engine.
In park. (4sp -tcc lock)
With zero electrical loads on... that isc should be 100% closed right? near yes (most old isc leak , look inside it see that rubber ring, and the Pock marks on it sure, that is going to leak. just a bit)
see the word seat here (its a rubber ring, there, and all leak, old , all do but most are just tiny bit, never seen one close 100% used)
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/IAC-exploded2w.jpg
Unless the ecu uses it to maintain 800 rpm ( learn that if the bleed is closed (900rpm), and you have air leaks,(vacuum) if the ECu closed the ISC , it cant close further ever. 100% closed is all it can do. The ISC can only hide small leaks, ONLY !
and most of these silly ECU then hunt the idle(surge), in a vain attempt to go more that 100% closed (double silly, it can't and is dangerous to some drivers ,most are A/T drivers, surge is dangerous to some folks " ask Toyata that and get man crying in towel"
But it's not 800 I'm at 900 rpm. (good a number , 900! with ISC unplugged, if yes, and yes hot, that is a vacuum leak, hard proof (bleed closed?)
When I see that, i immediately pinch the AIR line, to ISC, (cold line is AIR) and if RPM drops below 800 the ISC is BAD ! end story (maybe)
Unless the ecu can't see a vac leak that's already causing a high idle.
(It sees all leaks, and can see RPM every second, it will never miss the the fact that IT cant CONTROL IDLE)
the ECU (hot engine) controls RPM , at all times, parked, (not limphome mode) it goes that 1000s of times a second. in fact. it wont miss a thing,
learn that on a modern car it would be puking DTC 'idle controls dead" endlessly.
My idle screw is not closed all the way right now... why not? if I say 900 with isc unplugged that would be next. (after all that is all I can control on this engine (easy)
Do yo know the story about the Dutch boy and Dike leaks. (dam) he has to plug leak with thumb. same deal here but negative pressure air. (vacuum)
But it's not far off from closed. Maybe 1 turn (full turn) or less... well good luck getting it to 150 degrees when it's 5 out lol.. diag will be hard now that it's cold.
150f takes driving to get there, idling can take for every even 2 hours. use cardboard to block the radiator opening like the do in Sweden (endless times)
My buddy (ASE mech) up in Alaska has to spray foam on the engine block or it never gets to temp, -55f there. or like many there,,never turn off the engine ever in dead of winter, there..... hard times.
that isc i put on from the junk yard car i know closed 100% i tested it with my mighty vac. (isc nor iac use vacuum)? me confused here.
But I feel that it's being commanded open a bit for no reason...
like if I unplug it.. the idle drops "by" 100rpm or so... To what? please use real numbers for rpm ,they matter what.
So on a hot running engine.
In park. (4sp -tcc lock)
With zero electrical loads on... that isc should be 100% closed right? near yes (most old isc leak , look inside it see that rubber ring, and the Pock marks on it sure, that is going to leak. just a bit)
see the word seat here (its a rubber ring, there, and all leak, old , all do but most are just tiny bit, never seen one close 100% used)
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/IAC-exploded2w.jpg
Unless the ecu uses it to maintain 800 rpm ( learn that if the bleed is closed (900rpm), and you have air leaks,(vacuum) if the ECu closed the ISC , it cant close further ever. 100% closed is all it can do. The ISC can only hide small leaks, ONLY !
and most of these silly ECU then hunt the idle(surge), in a vain attempt to go more that 100% closed (double silly, it can't and is dangerous to some drivers ,most are A/T drivers, surge is dangerous to some folks " ask Toyata that and get man crying in towel"
But it's not 800 I'm at 900 rpm. (good a number , 900! with ISC unplugged, if yes, and yes hot, that is a vacuum leak, hard proof (bleed closed?)
When I see that, i immediately pinch the AIR line, to ISC, (cold line is AIR) and if RPM drops below 800 the ISC is BAD ! end story (maybe)
Unless the ecu can't see a vac leak that's already causing a high idle.
(It sees all leaks, and can see RPM every second, it will never miss the the fact that IT cant CONTROL IDLE)
the ECU (hot engine) controls RPM , at all times, parked, (not limphome mode) it goes that 1000s of times a second. in fact. it wont miss a thing,
learn that on a modern car it would be puking DTC 'idle controls dead" endlessly.
My idle screw is not closed all the way right now... why not? if I say 900 with isc unplugged that would be next. (after all that is all I can control on this engine (easy)
Do yo know the story about the Dutch boy and Dike leaks. (dam) he has to plug leak with thumb. same deal here but negative pressure air. (vacuum)
But it's not far off from closed. Maybe 1 turn (full turn) or less... well good luck getting it to 150 degrees when it's 5 out lol.. diag will be hard now that it's cold.
150f takes driving to get there, idling can take for every even 2 hours. use cardboard to block the radiator opening like the do in Sweden (endless times)
My buddy (ASE mech) up in Alaska has to spray foam on the engine block or it never gets to temp, -55f there. or like many there,,never turn off the engine ever in dead of winter, there..... hard times.
http://www.fixkick.com