please do think out load, it's ok,
yes folks do epoxy the hole closed, using epoxy putty too.,
yes ends cold fast idle. the right foot can compensate easy....
the cooling lines to the IAC can also clog and do the exact same thing, Im sure you know that, just speaking so others reading know this.
that is correct spark base timing set wrong, cause idle to be wrong,. sure does, (carbs) only if the hot ISC is dead, the ISC fights wrong idle speeds at 800 rpm it holds 800. hot.
but if there is no air, supply you can advance spark all day or retard it, NO air , the engine can not run and would flood.
the tests are all about air supply
ISC + IAC + bleed cold
Hot is ISC + bleed, and nothing else. this is key facts to cause.
there are no others,
so if you block the iac, and rpm does not drop to 800 the isc is bad, or bleed cranked full out.(or vacuum leaks)
you gave me the flue.. btw, got it last night 1am.... ( LOL !)
i's not possible to set timing lacking a $20 timing light, 100% impossible, , until year DIS< (distributor less igntion system was born)
nor possible not using the timing freeze jumper (DLC)
spark knock on this engine is only reduced with EGR, flows. period.
if you set base tie wrong, the fuel does not burn fully and burns up the CAT.
never set timing wrong on EFI cars ,not only that the ECU goes nuts, after all its dumb and OBD1 slow and not so good.
it does nothing for the trail, if you do nothing at all, you get 95 HP. that is what you get, and if you mess with spark timing you will get less. and unburned fuel. wasted.
the spark tables in the ECU are 3D, ever see those? 3D timing maps?. (RPM /engine load /timing) The map is complex. messing with it only invites bad.
those maps are tuned for all loads, possible. (Displacement, CR and VE tuned and fine tuned)
the spark is timed to make full HP at all times. under load.
and does, did you know that is also less smog, (Nox is a whole other matter)
max hp BURNS ALL FUEL SO IS MAX HP and min SMOG.
THE ONLY MORE hidden power is to unplug the O2 sensor, and get slightly more HP, that is it. from STOCH to 12.5:1 Ratio but did you know that is already working now, automatic
when you accelerate the ECU 02 closed loop Ends (turns off) and you get full HP now. at Enrich mode. and all the time WOT. it's there. full HP.
The spark also has 3d map for both modes, Stoich and enrich so is 4D. (and more, idle and cold start)
be nice to see how the IAC port blocked what RPM you get.
also the IAC is bolted to the bottom of the TB
and all 4 , 6mm bolts will be seized,
and are large Phillips screws.
Id not touch it lacking 2 TB in my possession. the IAC.
the IAC can be tested in a hot pan of water, 180f.
at 150f it closes 100% on up.
there is a blow hole on the bottom too. (as in force a spare hose to port hole there, and blow with lips) try it cold first, see it flow air the stops at 150f.
in hand here.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...ge_29.html
whole thing here. blow in the red arrow hole hot. and must be closed.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...d-back.jpg
keep in mind the fresh air is all MAF metered air, so the bore square hole is fresh air into IAC.
it sucks the air at the red arrow.
yes folks do epoxy the hole closed, using epoxy putty too.,
yes ends cold fast idle. the right foot can compensate easy....
the cooling lines to the IAC can also clog and do the exact same thing, Im sure you know that, just speaking so others reading know this.
that is correct spark base timing set wrong, cause idle to be wrong,. sure does, (carbs) only if the hot ISC is dead, the ISC fights wrong idle speeds at 800 rpm it holds 800. hot.
but if there is no air, supply you can advance spark all day or retard it, NO air , the engine can not run and would flood.
the tests are all about air supply
ISC + IAC + bleed cold
Hot is ISC + bleed, and nothing else. this is key facts to cause.
there are no others,
so if you block the iac, and rpm does not drop to 800 the isc is bad, or bleed cranked full out.(or vacuum leaks)
you gave me the flue.. btw, got it last night 1am.... ( LOL !)
i's not possible to set timing lacking a $20 timing light, 100% impossible, , until year DIS< (distributor less igntion system was born)
nor possible not using the timing freeze jumper (DLC)
spark knock on this engine is only reduced with EGR, flows. period.
if you set base tie wrong, the fuel does not burn fully and burns up the CAT.
never set timing wrong on EFI cars ,not only that the ECU goes nuts, after all its dumb and OBD1 slow and not so good.
it does nothing for the trail, if you do nothing at all, you get 95 HP. that is what you get, and if you mess with spark timing you will get less. and unburned fuel. wasted.
the spark tables in the ECU are 3D, ever see those? 3D timing maps?. (RPM /engine load /timing) The map is complex. messing with it only invites bad.
those maps are tuned for all loads, possible. (Displacement, CR and VE tuned and fine tuned)
the spark is timed to make full HP at all times. under load.
and does, did you know that is also less smog, (Nox is a whole other matter)
max hp BURNS ALL FUEL SO IS MAX HP and min SMOG.
THE ONLY MORE hidden power is to unplug the O2 sensor, and get slightly more HP, that is it. from STOCH to 12.5:1 Ratio but did you know that is already working now, automatic
when you accelerate the ECU 02 closed loop Ends (turns off) and you get full HP now. at Enrich mode. and all the time WOT. it's there. full HP.
The spark also has 3d map for both modes, Stoich and enrich so is 4D. (and more, idle and cold start)
be nice to see how the IAC port blocked what RPM you get.
also the IAC is bolted to the bottom of the TB
and all 4 , 6mm bolts will be seized,
and are large Phillips screws.
Id not touch it lacking 2 TB in my possession. the IAC.
the IAC can be tested in a hot pan of water, 180f.
at 150f it closes 100% on up.
there is a blow hole on the bottom too. (as in force a spare hose to port hole there, and blow with lips) try it cold first, see it flow air the stops at 150f.
in hand here.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...ge_29.html
whole thing here. blow in the red arrow hole hot. and must be closed.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...d-back.jpg
keep in mind the fresh air is all MAF metered air, so the bore square hole is fresh air into IAC.
it sucks the air at the red arrow.
http://www.fixkick.com