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High idle regardless of whether it is cold or hot
10-27-2017, 08:14 AM (This post was last modified: 10-27-2017 08:19 AM by dell_mare.)
Post: #11
RE: High idle regardless of whether it is cold or hot
(10-27-2017 07:55 AM)fixkick Wrote:  every $25 maf from china ive seen (new from suzuki is $1000)
open up insides, via lid,off

all in there was junk. pure junk , toy grade, hope yours is not.
our pro grade maf , refurbs from the famous co. is $197
CARDONE.
http://fixkick.com/buy-parts.html#MAF16

the maf also makes idle work, and guess what, tinker-toy mafs do not work at idle when air flows are small, only the best work there.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/suzuk...ensor,5128
HOT ! all comments hot engine.
again no? CEL blink codes, in Diag jump mode.?
The idle ISC valve must work or there will be no idle controls, if jammed.
the idle switch must close.
it most not be in limphome mode or there will be no idle controls.
if the air cleaner looks ok, it is.

good luck with cloned parts, some are useless. ford sure expensive precision calibrated parts like this.

Thanx for all. I will check ISC valve again first and than decide what to do next. Hope all of this will help someone. Anyway, MAF from China I ordered is produced by TROFOM auto parts. If it not work when air flow is small than it will result stalls but lower consumption also ??
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10-29-2017, 05:52 AM
Post: #12
RE: High idle regardless of whether it is cold or hot
After installing chinese MAF, i cleaned IAC with wynns spray. Opened air filter box and bingooo! Air filter was dirty and with rubber slightly riped off. Seems to me last owner never change air filter. Second and more important thing, air filter was about 1.5cm shorter than new one I've buyed today. So there was space for air to skip filter. Same look but shorter. So result after changing airfilter, cleaning IAC and changing MAF is: Idling 850 rpms (hot engine)- 1100 rpms (cold) .
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11-02-2017, 05:35 AM
Post: #13
RE: High idle regardless of whether it is cold or hot
Any time I forget to first check the basics, I end up really wanting to bang my head on a wall.
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11-08-2017, 04:03 AM (This post was last modified: 11-08-2017 04:09 AM by fixkick.)
Post: #14
RE: High idle regardless of whether it is cold or hot
no power to climb steep hills
well gee that is normal with 95HP and 2000lb 2door. on PETROL and less on LNG.(or propane, butane or what ever) LNG is liquid natural gas also called Methane) LNG is dirty methane. (we swim in this in Texas, 100+ year supplies of LNG)
but the first test is fuel pressure , swapping parts blind does not fix cars
tests do.
unless super super lucky.
what is fuel pressure, at idle and WOT for 1 second , wild man hand on throttle valve.
it must rise 6psi as you do that. or you will never have full power ever. a fact, and can be a bad FPR.

if the map tests ok with a volt meter then its OK. removing a $1000 USD MAF and stuffing a $10 china in, is prime way to have 2 problems.
for sure. and is why guessing is never ever a good idea.
i have a maf page, shows all facts in the FSM book and not.

low power on PETROL mode. 16v MPI only.
1: low fuel pressure or bad fuel. 30psi is good, and rises 6PSI at WOT, if not, there will be now full power. ever.
2: wrong fuel cap and tank NOW runs with a vacuum(and must never) and #1 happens.
3: it's not a lack of air, LPG is ok nor CAT clogged or LPG would fail again.
4: the MAF is dead/weak, or the ECU in limphome mode, making MAF seem dead but is not. its limphome mode. and will have huge giant power loss in LIMP. mode. for sure.
5: Clogged injectors, (im ignoring all your posts here and listing ALL THINGS)
6: FPR stuck open causing #1 ( redundant this is to #1 ... but there I went)

that is all i can think of for gross MPI Petrol power loss. (LNG ok)

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11-08-2017, 09:03 AM
Post: #15
RE: High idle regardless of whether it is cold or hot
(11-08-2017 04:03 AM)fixkick Wrote:  no power to climb steep hills
well gee that is normal with 95HP and 2000lb 2door. on PETROL and less on LNG.(or propane, butane or what ever) LNG is liquid natural gas also called Methane) LNG is dirty methane. (we swim in this in Texas, 100+ year supplies of LNG)
but the first test is fuel pressure , swapping parts blind does not fix cars
tests do.
unless super super lucky.
what is fuel pressure, at idle and WOT for 1 second , wild man hand on throttle valve.
it must rise 6psi as you do that. or you will never have full power ever. a fact, and can be a bad FPR.

if the map tests ok with a volt meter then its OK. removing a $1000 USD MAF and stuffing a $10 china in, is prime way to have 2 problems.
for sure. and is why guessing is never ever a good idea.
i have a maf page, shows all facts in the FSM book and not.

low power on PETROL mode. 16v MPI only.
1: low fuel pressure or bad fuel. 30psi is good, and rises 6PSI at WOT, if not, there will be now full power. ever.
2: wrong fuel cap and tank NOW runs with a vacuum(and must never) and #1 happens.
3: it's not a lack of air, LPG is ok nor CAT clogged or LPG would fail again.
4: the MAF is dead/weak, or the ECU in limphome mode, making MAF seem dead but is not. its limphome mode. and will have huge giant power loss in LIMP. mode. for sure.
5: Clogged injectors, (im ignoring all your posts here and listing ALL THINGS)
6: FPR stuck open causing #1 ( redundant this is to #1 ... but there I went)

that is all i can think of for gross MPI Petrol power loss. (LNG ok)

Thnx for everything. After that problem with high RPM's I stuck with another now. After adding some injector cleaning liquid in my tank, it thinned mud from tank (I guess) all moved up and come on injectors.

Result:
-I have problems with working with one or more cylinders,
- Spark plugs (that I changed month ago) are so dirty and I barely can start car. I cleaned them few times just to start the car.
- Fuel filter (I've just changed too) probably get dirty too.
- When driving, sometime goes perfectly and suddenly some clog blocks injector and engine loose some power...and so on. I decided to go to the mechanic to solve all of my sweet problems.

ps. When CHECK ENGINE light is not switched ON when I turn on key in acc on is that mean that ECU is dead?
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11-18-2017, 08:57 AM
Post: #16
RE: High idle regardless of whether it is cold or hot
Mistery solved = Fuel pressure regulator (FPR) was dead. Mechanic did the job, old FPR removed, spare one mounted. Vitara get's fabric RPM's when idling on petrol. If someone have similar problem, please check FPR. Thnx for help Fixkick!
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11-18-2017, 12:46 PM
Post: #17
RE: High idle regardless of whether it is cold or hot
(11-18-2017 08:57 AM)dell_mare Wrote:  Mistery solved = Fuel pressure regulator (FPR) was dead. Mechanic did the job, old FPR removed, spare one mounted. Vitara get's fabric RPM's when idling on petrol. If someone have similar problem, please check FPR. Thnx for help Fixkick!

it is one of the top fails now,this old.
amazes me it lasts this long, really.
wrong fuel pressure was the cause,
not rising with throttle vacuum (drop)and very low power as the results.
good job, glad its sorted, !!!!!

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