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Idles, but dies giving throttle
07-20-2017, 10:53 AM
Post: #1
Idles, but dies giving throttle
Just scored my first Sidekick!

1993, 4 door LX 16V. Pretty good shape, except no spark when I bought it ($400USD).
New igniter, replaced all underdash fuses, checked dist cap, rotor, connections, etc. Got it to run when trying rotor in all 3 positions.

It idled at around 3,000 rpm, and would immediately die with throttle opened. Literally could push throttle to floor and hold it, no RPM increase, just died like ignition turned off.

Checked throttle body (clean, no damage), installed TPS from a known running vehicle, set .026 gap at screw with DMM, reinstalled - no change.

Pinched IAC hose tight, it idled down,(YAY!) and got to around 1,000 RPM or below via bleed screw.

Checked hoses, tried propane torch (not lit!) everywhere reachable on intake side, no changes in idle.

Starts easy enough and idles with IAC pinched.

Still dies when opening throttle, though.

I just pulled the IAC to inspect and clean.

Am I on the right path? Pointers?

Thanks so much. Really appreciate fixkick.com and this forum. Wealth of information!
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07-20-2017, 11:26 AM
Post: #2
RE: Idles, but dies giving throttle
that is a bad rotor from china.
a real rotor CAN NOT TO THAT
it has steal spring clip in the bottom that blocks that (the new car had mitsubishi rotor) and it too does not plant 3ways
the bosch page on same rotor says,"fits just the the original 1 way" they too know what china ,knockoff crap does. what pain.

IAC, the electric one or water only one.?
water IAC is below TB
electric is more front on left side of plenum box, i call it ISC, to make it unique name.

you are on good track for sure... all that.
the high idle.

what is idle with ISC electric connector pulled.
400 is typical or you have air leaks.
sure clean the iSC
make sure the EGRs does not suck air,missing gaskets, are common there.
pinch all vacuum hoses.
IAC stuck open , below Throttle body or the water hose, is blocked
make sure water temp goes to 180f, the IAC closes at 150f so, is 100% closes past 150f.


cold idle is about 1500 rpm and winds down to 800 slow as water gets hotter.
hot is 800. ac off
ac on 1000 hot.

sorry you got ROTOR'ED!
cheers.

http://fixkick.com/
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07-20-2017, 12:13 PM
Post: #3
RE: Idles, but dies giving throttle
(07-20-2017 11:26 AM)fixkick Wrote:  that is a bad rotor from china.
a real rotor CAN NOT TO THAT
it has steal spring clip in the bottom that blocks that (the new car had mitsubishi rotor) and it too does not plant 3ways
the bosch page on same rotor says,"fits just the the original 1 way" they too know what china ,knockoff crap does. what pain.

IAC, the electric one or water only one.?
water IAC is below TB
electric is more front on left side of plenum box, i call it ISC, to make it unique name.

you are on good track for sure... all that.
the high idle.

what is idle with ISC electric connector pulled.
400 is typical or you have air leaks.
sure clean the iSC
make sure the EGRs does not suck air,missing gaskets, are common there.
pinch all vacuum hoses.
IAC stuck open , below Throttle body or the water hose, is blocked
make sure water temp goes to 180f, the IAC closes at 150f so, is 100% closes past 150f.


cold idle is about 1500 rpm and winds down to 800 slow as water gets hotter.
hot is 800. ac off
ac on 1000 hot.

sorry you got ROTOR'ED!
cheers.



Thanks so much for the super quick reply!

ISC is electric. It's off the car now for cleaning. Will check EGR and idle with ISC installed but unplugged wires.

Couldn't find your page on how to clean ISC?
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07-20-2017, 12:57 PM
Post: #4
RE: Idles, but dies giving throttle
(07-20-2017 12:13 PM)mtwebs Wrote:  
(07-20-2017 11:26 AM)fixkick Wrote:  that is a bad rotor from china.
a real rotor CAN NOT TO THAT
it has steal spring clip in the bottom that blocks that (the new car had mitsubishi rotor) and it too does not plant 3ways
the bosch page on same rotor says,"fits just the the original 1 way" they too know what china ,knockoff crap does. what pain.

IAC, the electric one or water only one.?
water IAC is below TB
electric is more front on left side of plenum box, i call it ISC, to make it unique name.

you are on good track for sure... all that.
the high idle.

what is idle with ISC electric connector pulled.
400 is typical or you have air leaks.
sure clean the iSC
make sure the EGRs does not suck air,missing gaskets, are common there.
pinch all vacuum hoses.
IAC stuck open , below Throttle body or the water hose, is blocked
make sure water temp goes to 180f, the IAC closes at 150f so, is 100% closes past 150f.


cold idle is about 1500 rpm and winds down to 800 slow as water gets hotter.
hot is 800. ac off
ac on 1000 hot.

sorry you got ROTOR'ED!
cheers.



Thanks so much for the super quick reply!

ISC is electric. It's off the car now for cleaning. Will check EGR and idle with ISC installed but unplugged wires.

Couldn't find your page on how to clean ISC?


OK - didn't clean ISC (couldn't get tubes to pull out after removing screw) so reinstalled with RTV just to test.

Still high idle unless pinching ISC air hose, *NEW INFORMATION: AND idle drops just fine when ISC wires are unplugged!

I pinched every hose which is visible, without affecting idle speed.

And it still completely dies when opening throttle. It is possible to raise RPMs a bit if throttle is opened a bit, very slowly. But it won't even pull its own weight on level ground.

Just seems like it is not getting needed fuel as it comes off idle.
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07-25-2017, 08:34 PM (This post was last modified: 07-25-2017 08:34 PM by fixkick.)
Post: #5
RE: Idles, but dies giving throttle
we need to start over.. my guess this is what is called a barn find car. (not a daily driver for years. i bet)
so it starts now. how old is the fuel, or how old was the fuel as you got it ? old fuel goes bad, and when it does the injector screens clog. 10 micron size screens 4 times smaller than the filter.
i think idle is last, it always is, all must be good for the engine ecu to regulate idle properly (many thing)
so
key on ,CEL must glow, if not fix this first. many barn cars have the lamp removed or taped black .
then insert the diagnostic jumper. in to the DLC jack near the battery.
key on it flashes 12s start engine , sill 12s.

the DLC is here.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/DiagJump.html

id have done a compression test day one, to see if the engine has a future. for sure.
compression testis here.

http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html

zero power based on all normal causes are:

1: lost compression , eg: 80psi (not 180 normal) is cam belt slipped. as all do after 60k miles. , tool. is a compression gauge.
2: low fuel pressure. (one more guage)
3: maf bad or just dirty. (look for DTC codes first bad maf)
4: injectors clogged.
5: someone played with the distributor and set timing way off, or caused by cam belt slipped, best is to do #1 first and not try to fix spark until cam is set right. or make it worse.
6; bad fuel. (barn found cars sure)

easy has test. we can to them and there is page for each
idle corrected last. (its like, deck chairs on the titanic, not arranged properly)

good luck.

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