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Warmed up, idling too fast
06-13-2017, 11:35 PM (This post was last modified: 06-13-2017 11:35 PM by fixkick.)
Post: #21
RE: Warmed up, idling too fast
when you flush an old engine like this, we flash all hoses, each is tested for proper flows.
but in most case they are so old and atrophied, they cant be done. the turn hard and brittle.
there is bypass hose to, that needs to work
see below
#14 bypass.
and the IAC.
see that water manifold behind mr pump, see O-ring there, see the end nipple, see that it goes to IAC? that hose must flow water, or the ENGINE WILL RACE HOT, super bad racing...
racing means , insane high idle speeds, as even 3000 RPM is possible.
if the hose flows a working IAC closes 100% at 150f. by design.


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06-13-2017, 11:37 PM
Post: #22
RE: Warmed up, idling too fast
the blue arrows are the frigid engine failure mode, (1992 they changed the thermostat, radially) ask if wondering. or see my page with same name, frigid.

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06-13-2017, 11:39 PM
Post: #23
RE: Warmed up, idling too fast
note how the hottest water goes to IAC first. (both devices are connected in series)
my rad drops the hot water 50degrees F , at the bottom.
measured by me.

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06-13-2017, 11:42 PM
Post: #24
RE: Warmed up, idling too fast
seen many with home made gasket, that blocks the top right arrow hole. TB base gasket wrong. 2 ways to get that wrong and common, seen on many cars.
i first use a IR gun
to see if the IAC gets hot fast and at 180f.
the gun costs $15 at harbor Fright (pun)...
its a laser diode, IR gun, thermal, and works great, to find this or clogged RAD tubes, easy.

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06-26-2017, 03:07 AM (This post was last modified: 06-26-2017 03:08 AM by GeoHacker.)
Post: #25
RE: Warmed up, idling too fast
Thanks for that diagram. Hoses 16 and 17 are the ones I haven't been able to replace due to access issues (16 for sure). All others have been replaced at some point. If I had a lift, might could get to 16.


Update:
New water pump back in, belts in, timing belt in, tensioner. No leaks. Idled up to 1600, RPM's declined perfectly as warmed up. So, seems it was the seal in water pump blew out, causing lost coolant, leading to air in the system and the noted RPMs per your notes on ECM compensating in insane ways due to bad data.

Found a loose #1 spark plug also…noticed wire was wiggling way too much while running. So, a little smoother now too.

I had bought a timing belt from someone on ebay, but despite saying was a fit, seem was for a 16 valve. Way longer, wider, and chrome (not rubberized) tensioner. So now I gotta go sell that off.

Thanks for all the great debugging info, apologies if my reports and assumptions led astray, but could have been all of that too, just glad it wasn't.

I really don't want to work on cars anymore. I get too frustrated and sore these days. First time doing this 2007 or so, 127K miles, took 3 days due to being novice. Second time, because cheap water pump failed, 4 hours. This time, because older, at 184K miles, took 4 days. Ha. Smile Car looks equally older too…clear coat failing on hood now, bumpers chipping into cracks. 25 years old, it's ok. I need to gift it a new top for its kindness in running so nice still.

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06-26-2017, 04:07 AM (This post was last modified: 06-26-2017 04:11 AM by fixkick.)
Post: #26
RE: Warmed up, idling too fast
buy a Gates kit.
they all fit, and must match the engine, the catalog is clear as day on these facts
buying a $10 belt of feabay, why buy no name china crap like that. its going to fail.
the best pumps are marked from japan, there are vast pumps sold that are carp, each day more crap, its endless ,its the CHINA desease.
they sell that crap because most people shop for price, and get crap.
learn to buy parts using top grand name. and win.
hose 16/17 are heater hoses, if they never leak, they are fine, if they clog the heater dies, in fact many bypass those hoses.down south, here, not needed at all heat.

navigates, you can see here the 2 belts are not the same. at all.

http://navigates.gates.com/Parts.aspx?Ye...ght+Trucks

the heads are not the same at all. not even close, radical different in fact.


gates even sells pumps, and guess what are NOT CRAP.
do not buy rebuilt pumps.
i got one from suzuki dealer back east, (ordered on there web page) and paid for new, an got a pump from those jerks, that was sandblasted with heavy grit, so bad all threaded hole were destroyed. I told them , never again do I darken you doors.. no wonder SUz went Chapter 11. they do sux.



the gate catalog is there, read it.
see those parts.
then google search by PN/ gates part number
and get good parts, if on ebay do the same thing, they have good parts there, but must be good brands.

part 1 fleabay
Gates.TCK164 , even toyota puts them on new toyota, cant be bad. not ever.
SOm Ting Wong,, $10, free shipping
which one works and lasts......

doing the job 2 times and for the 3rd later for a bad pump, omg.
get a BOSCH mag wire set for the distributor,. it will last i bet for life of car, NGK is better but cost more bread. blue mag wire.
names matter.

and here rockauto
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/suzuk...l4,1271450


ever look there, but do not buy the top listed dirt cheap part, there, some are CRAP.

id not touch the first 4 here, then lands on gates.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/suzuk...t+kit,5759


my moto, fixing cars is easy
buying parts 10x harder, and pure raw luck on fleabay, endless, bad stories there, even sellers that lie to you bold face.

one joker there told me , sure it's a lie but, the price low should have warned you (never buy from NJ?)
1/2 what I buy of fleabay hits the trash can./..... some of the parts are so bad they are pathetic,,

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