lots of probem, idle , surge, 2nd gear, air in top of block air pocket causing temp sensor to go nuts, it can measure air temp so goes nuts on all cars same reason (or wire there is rusty)
the surge is first. this old suz has flaw in the software, illegal now, very much so, and surges when it can get idle to hard coded 800 RPM hot, its software bug. (my guess, bad programming then)
2nd gear (off topic, i think is your clutch cable is bad, and clutch drags. moving should be less 2nd gear balking. not more, do to less differential gear speeds)
so forget surge, its a side show, a casualty of primary cause. below.:....
the true failure in all cases, (not bad parts, science) is you HAVE AIR LEAKS, (AKA. vacuum leaks, ) IT FOR SURE IS>
if you at thin moment, block, all air leaks to the PLENUM (that large caviting below TB) that collection point below the Throttle body , all 8v stall , dead, hard stall, this is a fact.
so to is that all air leaks cause racing way too fast, idle speeds, hot. (unless its just tiny tiny leak that ISC corrects easy )
knowing just that fact on speed density EFI one can work the problem some are easy some are hard find,
the first thing to do is look at the dash pot, on rear of TB, see that rod on it, it has 1/8" gap there if not the DP is bad. (or its controls)
this takes 1min to see this. its super easy check DP is it, or not. DP is is off , hot running,
1: 1 to 3 throttle cables not set to spec 10mm slack, , the 3 are, throttle, TV, and cruise, you dont have TV so 2, cables, if cruise fitted
TV cable "passing gear cable" = on automatic trans only.
set the slack by the book now (need link to book?) and fix that now, if needed.
TV = throttle valve that brass butterfly plate in the TB. when you step on the gas you are really stepping on AIR. (EFI does the rest)
2: TV (it self)is blocked open for many reasons not #1 , gunk in the TV plate blocking it open, sucking massive AIR.
3: IAC leaks, the wax pellet is bad, or the hose feeding water to it, is dry and IAC goes nuts, just like the dash gauge is doing, omg, same air pocket?
The IAC closes 100% at 150F. but that takes water flow, in that hose, some are clogged in hose or the 4 points of enter and exit fittings.
4: ISC stuck open (umplug the wire to it, connector, rpm will go to 400rpm if not, the engine has vacuum leaks for sure. all connectors have locks do NOT FORCE any. they are not sold, suz connectors so, being careful is everything here.
the IAC is not easy to test, if hits hot, 170f shows on my IR thermal gun pointed to it. if not but is colder far colder that 180f thermostat reading
then the thermostat is bad, stuck open that water path the the ISC is bad, clogged. (its not flowing only why is question)
the IAC can be air path blocked, it has an air port, that can be blocked proving that it is stuck open. (temp checks are first, it must go over 150f to work right) I have photos in my TB slide show , see that?
5:vacuum hoses leaking. (all ways any way , its bad)
that means the thing on the other lend of said hose must not leak air too. including that brake booster, we use hand vacuum gauge tester (pump)
we do hose inspections and vacuum leak down test with that cheap tool. harbor fright has a nice one,
the PCV sucks fumes and is orifice limited and is not leaking air. normally. unless the hose is cracked, back to hoses....
The other devices, must not suck air, map, Dashpot,FPR,booster,broken VSV valves, there hoses, EGR hoses bad. but parked, at idle , EGR is off line, but the hoses and the valve must not suck air , ever, here. , one can just pinch hoses to find vacuum leaks, its super easy until booster hose is found , its huge and think and refuses to pinch so, we use a cork, wine bottle cork the bugger, see , now? see idle drop or not? dont drive now, with cork in place.
A golf TEE is a great tool to block small hose ends. to prove leaks or not, lacking hand vacuum test pump tools....mightyVac, or HF tool cheaper.
6:other leaks, intake gaskets. (saw EGR main valve cracked in half sucking massive air, seen its gasket missing, sucking air)
nature hates a vacuum (on earth only)
my slide show and idle failure pages cover this horror.
ignore all 16v pages, its not the same animal.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...index.html
get a cooling system flush and all hoses small checked for full flow, end to end.
no air pockets on top of engine
thermostat not 10 years old (hopeless to fault this)
wrong thermostat, 160f (hopeless to a fault this)
THE IAC MUST CLOSE 100 %
SEE ME bench marking it here, in pan of water and in my FREEZER?.?
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...age_9.html
the gaps were measured with number drills set 1 to 60) using there shanks. this photo exists no where else its my work.
see this horsed up map I made?
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...ge_37.html
see all those paths to leak Air, lots no?
The TV is 99.9% closed, at idle, it must be, and idle air is only IAC+ISC+bleed air when working correctly.
The IAC is closed HOT, if not its failing, ISC is the only air allowed except the bleed screw.
the bleed screw is ISC dutycycle calibration, per book.
the most hard leak ever found or seen in 10 years
was the poor guy running water , not 50% antifreeze
that it allowed the TB to ICE UP.
this cause a "where no man can go or see, crack inside and behind the IAC guts" nothing less than a small horror.
this was found by ,engine ran great with hand on top of TB air horn blocking all air flow to TB and it it ran perfectly, and all gaskets were perfect.(all 3)
yes, horrors do happen.
3more.
1: someone played with the never touch screw the idle stop TV screw. (bad to the bone this)
2: someone unscrewed the idle bleed screw, fully. its not idle speed at all its duty cycle setting, ECU sets idle speed, this screw puts the ISC in the center of its command authority (1/2 way point)
3: the TB top horn comes off and has a gasket that fails and lets the Bleed suck air <ILLEGALLY) see 2 holes at 2pm below>?
ive seen the gasket go rock hard, crack and suck in and go byebye here, and sucks air like mad, that suck path is straight shot to the plenum too.
see this photo on my idle fails pages
see all those hints?
see that IAC suck port, I use clay here to block it and see if ISA is sucking air hot. a difficult check but is proof.
![[Image: cold-air-n2bw.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Show/images/cold-air-n2bw.jpg)
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/fastfix.html
the surge is first. this old suz has flaw in the software, illegal now, very much so, and surges when it can get idle to hard coded 800 RPM hot, its software bug. (my guess, bad programming then)
2nd gear (off topic, i think is your clutch cable is bad, and clutch drags. moving should be less 2nd gear balking. not more, do to less differential gear speeds)
so forget surge, its a side show, a casualty of primary cause. below.:....
the true failure in all cases, (not bad parts, science) is you HAVE AIR LEAKS, (AKA. vacuum leaks, ) IT FOR SURE IS>
if you at thin moment, block, all air leaks to the PLENUM (that large caviting below TB) that collection point below the Throttle body , all 8v stall , dead, hard stall, this is a fact.
so to is that all air leaks cause racing way too fast, idle speeds, hot. (unless its just tiny tiny leak that ISC corrects easy )
knowing just that fact on speed density EFI one can work the problem some are easy some are hard find,
the first thing to do is look at the dash pot, on rear of TB, see that rod on it, it has 1/8" gap there if not the DP is bad. (or its controls)
this takes 1min to see this. its super easy check DP is it, or not. DP is is off , hot running,
1: 1 to 3 throttle cables not set to spec 10mm slack, , the 3 are, throttle, TV, and cruise, you dont have TV so 2, cables, if cruise fitted
TV cable "passing gear cable" = on automatic trans only.
set the slack by the book now (need link to book?) and fix that now, if needed.
TV = throttle valve that brass butterfly plate in the TB. when you step on the gas you are really stepping on AIR. (EFI does the rest)
2: TV (it self)is blocked open for many reasons not #1 , gunk in the TV plate blocking it open, sucking massive AIR.
3: IAC leaks, the wax pellet is bad, or the hose feeding water to it, is dry and IAC goes nuts, just like the dash gauge is doing, omg, same air pocket?
The IAC closes 100% at 150F. but that takes water flow, in that hose, some are clogged in hose or the 4 points of enter and exit fittings.
4: ISC stuck open (umplug the wire to it, connector, rpm will go to 400rpm if not, the engine has vacuum leaks for sure. all connectors have locks do NOT FORCE any. they are not sold, suz connectors so, being careful is everything here.
the IAC is not easy to test, if hits hot, 170f shows on my IR thermal gun pointed to it. if not but is colder far colder that 180f thermostat reading
then the thermostat is bad, stuck open that water path the the ISC is bad, clogged. (its not flowing only why is question)
the IAC can be air path blocked, it has an air port, that can be blocked proving that it is stuck open. (temp checks are first, it must go over 150f to work right) I have photos in my TB slide show , see that?
5:vacuum hoses leaking. (all ways any way , its bad)
that means the thing on the other lend of said hose must not leak air too. including that brake booster, we use hand vacuum gauge tester (pump)
we do hose inspections and vacuum leak down test with that cheap tool. harbor fright has a nice one,
the PCV sucks fumes and is orifice limited and is not leaking air. normally. unless the hose is cracked, back to hoses....
The other devices, must not suck air, map, Dashpot,FPR,booster,broken VSV valves, there hoses, EGR hoses bad. but parked, at idle , EGR is off line, but the hoses and the valve must not suck air , ever, here. , one can just pinch hoses to find vacuum leaks, its super easy until booster hose is found , its huge and think and refuses to pinch so, we use a cork, wine bottle cork the bugger, see , now? see idle drop or not? dont drive now, with cork in place.
A golf TEE is a great tool to block small hose ends. to prove leaks or not, lacking hand vacuum test pump tools....mightyVac, or HF tool cheaper.
6:other leaks, intake gaskets. (saw EGR main valve cracked in half sucking massive air, seen its gasket missing, sucking air)
nature hates a vacuum (on earth only)
my slide show and idle failure pages cover this horror.
ignore all 16v pages, its not the same animal.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...index.html
get a cooling system flush and all hoses small checked for full flow, end to end.
no air pockets on top of engine
thermostat not 10 years old (hopeless to fault this)
wrong thermostat, 160f (hopeless to a fault this)
THE IAC MUST CLOSE 100 %
SEE ME bench marking it here, in pan of water and in my FREEZER?.?
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...age_9.html
the gaps were measured with number drills set 1 to 60) using there shanks. this photo exists no where else its my work.
see this horsed up map I made?
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...ge_37.html
see all those paths to leak Air, lots no?
The TV is 99.9% closed, at idle, it must be, and idle air is only IAC+ISC+bleed air when working correctly.
The IAC is closed HOT, if not its failing, ISC is the only air allowed except the bleed screw.
the bleed screw is ISC dutycycle calibration, per book.
the most hard leak ever found or seen in 10 years
was the poor guy running water , not 50% antifreeze
that it allowed the TB to ICE UP.
this cause a "where no man can go or see, crack inside and behind the IAC guts" nothing less than a small horror.
this was found by ,engine ran great with hand on top of TB air horn blocking all air flow to TB and it it ran perfectly, and all gaskets were perfect.(all 3)
yes, horrors do happen.
3more.
1: someone played with the never touch screw the idle stop TV screw. (bad to the bone this)
2: someone unscrewed the idle bleed screw, fully. its not idle speed at all its duty cycle setting, ECU sets idle speed, this screw puts the ISC in the center of its command authority (1/2 way point)
3: the TB top horn comes off and has a gasket that fails and lets the Bleed suck air <ILLEGALLY) see 2 holes at 2pm below>?
ive seen the gasket go rock hard, crack and suck in and go byebye here, and sucks air like mad, that suck path is straight shot to the plenum too.
see this photo on my idle fails pages
see all those hints?
see that IAC suck port, I use clay here to block it and see if ISA is sucking air hot. a difficult check but is proof.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/fastfix.html
http://www.fixkick.com