01-17-2017, 11:36 PM
this is the 1989, the first ones were actually made in JAPAN, not CAMI.
or is the G16a engine, 1.6L
its a suzuki not geo
the J in front of the VIN tells you its japan.made. and the plant code too.
is car in USA or Canada, (matters for EGR tests and other details)
it is flooding,sniff sniff, i bet it was misfiring too. and that is #1 , any engine that misfires needs work. (heard, felt, or seen to shake at idle)
did you now the ECU on this ca,r does not create or time spark?, (monitors it yes, cuts fuel if the tachometer line goes dead sure)
but spark needs to be checked. first.
Okay , why are you ignoring the CEL, it only comes on , if catastrophic errors.
first find the DLC connectors.
the diagnostic jumper is a fuse.
seen here.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/DiagJump.html
you can use the fuse, keyon,, running or driving, all 3 ways work and all 3 can help find proplems for sure driving.
im not sure what you can do but anyone can check fuel pressure, if out of spec, and too high all , flood.
but that is getting to far down the line, you need to read the DTC errors the ecu is trying so hard to convey to you.
the codes are easy to read, code 12 is normal
all others are failures, it can report many errors in serial process , one at time.
this is first first.
Now dying down hill, (at throttle cut, must be 3speed automatic trans)
the ECU prevents that, all ECU do that, prevents that, , it does that via a device called an ISC (or IAC electric)
the ECU, opens that valve to keep idle at 800 rpm hot, going down hill ,that is the idle speed.
going down hill the throttle switch must closed telling ECU YOU ARE NOW at idle or now throttle closed.
what is hot idle in park? RPM. in the drive way.
is engine at 180f+ temp,hot, it must be.
for idle to work right, all other things must be right.
when going down hill if you hot foot the throttle, festering it does this prevent the stall>?
stalls can be many things, over 50 actually but less in physics and about 10 test to find it.
i cant drive itn and hear it misfire or see engine temps normal.
stalls,
1: loss of 12vdc power to the ECU or distributor coil. (see things go dead , at stall, electric things>?)
2: engine not fully hot. flooding. as all do, not hot. 180f normal.
3: engine sensors bad. (flash codes ? diag test mode , may tell you which it is , )
4: spark fails, now. unlikely just at cut throttle.?
5: fuel pressures wrong, , not likely at idle. but possible.
6: engine compression marginal , ever check it, or put in a new rubber band cam belt, every 60k miles.? if it retards engine will never ever run right again.,
6A: IF SPARK TIMING is off, the above is cause. do not set spark timing until above is corrected first.
7: ISC bad, or gummed up and stuck closed, it stalls. like most 89s do, they are known to fail, this year, this old, big time.
8: idle switch bad or TPS not calibrated, so the switch can work, it reads 0v at hot idle 800 rpm, not , bad news. needs calibration.
9: EGR valve stuck open, they love to do that ,at all stops signs, cut throttle,, if it does it will either stall or shake at like 400 rpm , illegal idle speeds.
thats it for now.
good luck!
or is the G16a engine, 1.6L
its a suzuki not geo
the J in front of the VIN tells you its japan.made. and the plant code too.
is car in USA or Canada, (matters for EGR tests and other details)
it is flooding,sniff sniff, i bet it was misfiring too. and that is #1 , any engine that misfires needs work. (heard, felt, or seen to shake at idle)
did you now the ECU on this ca,r does not create or time spark?, (monitors it yes, cuts fuel if the tachometer line goes dead sure)
but spark needs to be checked. first.
Okay , why are you ignoring the CEL, it only comes on , if catastrophic errors.
first find the DLC connectors.
the diagnostic jumper is a fuse.
seen here.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/DiagJump.html
you can use the fuse, keyon,, running or driving, all 3 ways work and all 3 can help find proplems for sure driving.
im not sure what you can do but anyone can check fuel pressure, if out of spec, and too high all , flood.
but that is getting to far down the line, you need to read the DTC errors the ecu is trying so hard to convey to you.
the codes are easy to read, code 12 is normal
all others are failures, it can report many errors in serial process , one at time.
this is first first.
Now dying down hill, (at throttle cut, must be 3speed automatic trans)
the ECU prevents that, all ECU do that, prevents that, , it does that via a device called an ISC (or IAC electric)
the ECU, opens that valve to keep idle at 800 rpm hot, going down hill ,that is the idle speed.
going down hill the throttle switch must closed telling ECU YOU ARE NOW at idle or now throttle closed.
what is hot idle in park? RPM. in the drive way.
is engine at 180f+ temp,hot, it must be.
for idle to work right, all other things must be right.
when going down hill if you hot foot the throttle, festering it does this prevent the stall>?
stalls can be many things, over 50 actually but less in physics and about 10 test to find it.
i cant drive itn and hear it misfire or see engine temps normal.
stalls,
1: loss of 12vdc power to the ECU or distributor coil. (see things go dead , at stall, electric things>?)
2: engine not fully hot. flooding. as all do, not hot. 180f normal.
3: engine sensors bad. (flash codes ? diag test mode , may tell you which it is , )
4: spark fails, now. unlikely just at cut throttle.?
5: fuel pressures wrong, , not likely at idle. but possible.
6: engine compression marginal , ever check it, or put in a new rubber band cam belt, every 60k miles.? if it retards engine will never ever run right again.,
6A: IF SPARK TIMING is off, the above is cause. do not set spark timing until above is corrected first.
7: ISC bad, or gummed up and stuck closed, it stalls. like most 89s do, they are known to fail, this year, this old, big time.
8: idle switch bad or TPS not calibrated, so the switch can work, it reads 0v at hot idle 800 rpm, not , bad news. needs calibration.
9: EGR valve stuck open, they love to do that ,at all stops signs, cut throttle,, if it does it will either stall or shake at like 400 rpm , illegal idle speeds.
thats it for now.
good luck!
(01-17-2017, 07:02 AM)bruski Wrote: Got this awesome little 4X4. It has check eng. light on and off. It stalls just after it warms up-but not all the time.
Yesterday going in rev. come to complete stop-shift to 1st gear it stalls and wouldn't start.
Smelled like it was flooded. Going down steep hill in 4x4 it will die, but starts up again.
Made in Japan built 12/88 (89 model)
vin # JS4TA51C6K4101813
all the info I could get off of tags.
Dist cap and rotor were corroded=changing them and spark plugs today.
Have fuel filer to change too.
Oh went today and it started up, but acted like it was flooded at first.
What else can I do?
Love this thing runs good when it doesn't die.
Update: After changing plugs=cap and rotor it started rough then ran okay.
Took it to the hills behind house, check eng light only came on or flashed when letting off the gas, never stalled out. Only did this when going downhill or braking to stop. Light goes off when giving the gas to it, comes back on or flashes when I let up.
http://www.fixkick.com