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97 Sidekick Sport 1.8L - CUTS OUT AT 1/4 THROTTLE
I don't know exactly why, that is why I would run tests. It is conceivable that there is a cavitiation issue.
The most you would be in for would be a plumbing adapter (maybe 6mm x 1.0) and some teflon tape.
(01-24-2017, 11:35 PM)fetcher Wrote: I don't know exactly why, that is why I would run tests. It is conceivable that there is a cavitiation issue.
The most you would be in for would be a plumbing adapter (maybe 6mm x 1.0) and some teflon tape.
OK, thanks for your feed back. I'm not sure what you mean by cavitation though. I am not going to give up just yet. I have a filter coming tomorrow and I'll do a pressure test.
cavitation is a RED HERRING (no fuel pump does this, but does 10 more bad acts not this)
avoid the word.

what matters only is pump (and FPR) fuel pressure at key on, idle, and WOT.
we have the spec, but you have no tools, so,,, its stuck at red herring faze.
I mentioned earlier in 2 posts asking advice in purchasing a scanner. I don't know which one to buy, and nobody has replied to that. I also mentioned several times that I have erased the codes and it has not since reset a code.
why is always 3 factors. Basics.... all...
1 compression ok. (and can breath air and pump air, ok.) means cat not melted yours is not. - YES, as posted earlier
2 spark ok - YES, at least when I check it idling.
3 fueling ok. - I have a gauge ordered to check that
in that order.
see why/?
sure, because each latter one , the former must be good. (called predicates)
For example:
you cant burn gas, with Dead or weak spark. see? I know that.
scanners questions are complex
there are today like 1000 brands,
the most hard question of all
hand held. dedicated tool
a cell phone can have toy grade software or real good. like sold at scantools.net
air bags
old 1996 car ,or all up to 2017
does it do factory live data streaming.
endless long topic with no end.
still dont know if full power happens WOT
and does not misfire at WOT
ive asked now vast times
so I give up.

all we know,is, 1 new cop
compression ok
and the misfire is real.
felt but only rare scans with spare data and no live scans while misfiring
and that it never misfires,at idle
and live scans of all live data PIDS. so l we work in dark guessing and replacing parts. SSDD.

the new 3 boots missing, sad to for sure.
My scanner isn't a Dongle. (EDIT kick; Dongle means just a block cube, be it USB/Bluetooth/wifi) I have all 3 and more.

It's a KOYA ELM327 Wireless OBD2 OBDII Scanner Auto Diagnostic Engine Tool OBD2 Car Code Reader Scan Tool Connect via WIFI For IOS / Andorid / Windows Devices
I was using it on my iPhone 6 plus. it has good reviews on Amazon.
It has not SET a new code since I erased it.
My Dome light fuse is good. I have checked all fuses twice. All good.
I don't have a laptop, but I have a iPad 2 Air
I don't really don't have a ton of money to spend on an expensive unit.
Where can I purchase a ELM327 and will it work on my iPad?
Fixkick EDIT (your tool is ELM327 , china clone of the real tool made in usa and canada. its cloned off the real tool)
that is a counterfeit 327
it will as all like it, so-SO AND Then blows up inside, have endless sad stories on clones.
some like it, but it has limits due to the version 1 stolen firmware,know bugs.
but not using it while driving and misfire, makes all this clone problems pail.
In my previous posts I stated that I did check compression and it is 185 to 190 on all cylinders.

EDIT KICK: sorry I missed that, only saw (excellent compression) and is.
OK, thanks. I am really sorry this has drug out for so long. I am usually pretty good at trouble shooting this kind of thing, but this Rice Burner has been kicking my butt.

* Just to be sure, the front cylinder is #1 - Correct? (yes the most forward cylinder is always #1 on all engines, even V engines and boxer) it the one most close to the belted end of engine. near crank pulley on all engines, RWD or FWD.

* It misses or cuts out like the key was turned off when I am driving at just above closed throttle. In other words, it seems about 1/8th throttle. ..... but, it has on 2 occasions gone into that stumble and would not come out of it no matter what throttle setting.
but what if you stomp the gas pedal, DO YOU HAVE FULL WOT POWER NOW??????

* No codes to read as it has not set codes since I cleared the #1 Mis-Fire and TPS Codes. (but to get them takes hard driving , hot engine , one drives other scans)

* It will idle smoothly for hours with no indication of a miss.

* This problem does not seem to be temperature sensitive. It acts the same hot or cold.

Steps I have taken:
* Fuel System cleaner added 300 miles ago.
* Checked compression at 160 degrees. All between 185 to 190
* Purchased new NGK plugs and installed all 4
* Replaced #1 (Front Cylinder) COP
* Check voltage on TPS - it is perfect.
* Cleaned MAF Coils very carefully without touching them.

I will be checking fuel pressure when my kit arrives.
I will install new fuel filter when it arrives.

I could try switching #1 and #2 COP, but I have no way of knowing if the miss went to #2 because it only cuts out when driving and has not set a code again.
better is switching 1>2 injectors. front to 2nd. swaps. far better

What puzzles me is it seems to cut out at the exact same throttle setting every time I drive it, but almost always straightens out when I increase throttle just a tiny bit. I have to go like a bat out of hell or, let off the throttle to keep it from cutting out.

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