11-11-2016, 11:50 PM
Sure bad fuel, or water, but was gas cap missing? and parked in rain" there should not be water in gas,
symptoms;:
lack of power.
" for it to cool before we can restart "( at this time I'd check spark plug 1 for flooding, if not soaked in fuel cranked dead, then now check spark. (wide open TV, cranking cuts fuel and this failed, so suggests big time lost spark) (TV is throttle valve) in the TB, is throttle body.
if spark is gone, the DISTRIBUTOR NEEDS WORK. (even the VR gap can be wrong , or ignitor bad.)
EGR valve is stuck, (main, valve below TB) IF IT sticks open, engine will want to stall. it can not be allowed to stick open. (very very common)
The EGR is only on line driving, (on very old cars it even works parked hot)
when running it coughs, (this is lean ) and not backfiring BOOM from end of tail pipe,so the lean sign and or timing off.
Just the lean sign, can be bad clogged filter.
my question on engine heat, are kinda moot if car cant be driven , to see if engine has full power, and the risk of getting stranded doing so...attempting.
sure. but you can idle it until it gets to 180F, 180F is normal temp or 195 is using a 195F thermostat.
the test is easy lacking an IR gun, see dash engine heat meter go past center, then touch the top RAD hose, if it gets hot, so hot the hand flies off this is
normal 180F, too hot to handle the hose, long. say for 1min, ouch., that is test that works on all cars, made.
if say the thermostat is (missing or bad, or some horrid 160fput there) it will flood, due to being locked in ECU cold start mode, rich as pig.
this turns the spark tips black, (telling you, Im too rich big time)
now the filter, it can be bad, if bad, the car will not want to have power, the pressure up where you are will be like 34psi, (low end of spec)
This is the job of the FPR, it lowers pressure at 3500 feet. for the injector to flow correctly at the Low pressure altitude.
FPR is on front side of TB, Fuel pressure regulator, they can go bad, if the vacuum hose removed show gas dripping its bad. or fails pressure tests.
The filter is next to the tank.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/TBI-conn-1w.jpg
ON cars like this is check spark timing first, on this car, 2 check
is the spark timing correct? if not? the cam belt slipped. takes me 5min work and oops, RETARDED timing, the 60k mile tune up was skipped.
if that is correct, then I race the engine fast to see if those hidden advancing weights are working in the base of that old rusty distributor.
these distribs can advance out to 30 to 40 degrees' (left side of scale , and way off it to the left) left is ADVANCED timing, to the right of 0 is retarded and
when retarded that means the cam belt slipped as all do past 60k and maybe to 100k,, bam, slips.
our store harbor Freight sells a fuel pressure gauge, see hose on right that fits your car, at the filter test port.
http://www.fixkick.com/tools/fuel_pressure_18usd.jpg
I always check spark first. then fuel pressure.
and for sure, when engines dies, spark, test pronto and spark tip colors. (is it dry, is it wet, is it soaked in fuel is it black,oil soaked?)
this is the EGR main, its revolutionized, and the ring is there.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/EGR/egr-main2.jpg
the EGR tests are all on a hot engine, but that does not mean at all that we ignore it on a cold engine.
the EGR must not stick open, on a cold engine or hot. if it sticks open it sucks exhaust gases into the induction and engine stalls or run like crap.
this is a linear function, it can stick a tiny bit, more, , 1/2 stuck or stuck fully out 5mm.
the push test only shows that it is free, and when you release the ring, there, it slams shut, (spring inside) and thunk sound happens
EGR love to stick, its there THING. (last bad one I had stuck only while arriving to a stop sign, engine stalls.) Loves to fail driving, sticks....
on a hot engine you push it , it stalls the engine, , on cold engine same.
the hot test is done, all EGR tests because the EGR is off line cold , at idle (VSV valve is dead) . for same reason, but the push test is always a valid test. to see if its OK, not messed up. (in its own right)
once the EGR is ok, we can see it move, as you gun the throttle by hand,, on some newer USA cars, the car must be moving to allow it to move at all.
but not this old canada car, and most real canada cars , (hood stickers show it is) do not have the ECU DTC errors of 51, weak EGR.
Up in canada the car can be, USA fed,USA CALIF. or Canada, or gray market, the hood stickers tell you what car you really own.
Bad gas, sure, only a sample of fuel needs be taken. (doing so is tricky on this very secure and tight system. 60psi it can be under pressure.
but the test is easy. after its put in glass jar ( tank cap off ,siphon out gas method can work)
sniff sniff, does it smell ok? like fresh gas? the sniff test, passing
then let gas sit in jar for 15min,. (it settles out)
do you see water balls floating on the bottom? , yes, oops water in fuel.
if you park a car put that gas protection in the tank, 1year , needs this.
STABIL gas treatment.
you did a tune up with
No new fuel filter (air too?)
no new belt? CAM>?
no spark timing check, ive seen many cars like that with timing wrong after the belt change, this is because the previous owner found timing wrong
set the distributor to wrong timing, on wrong timed cam, then fixed the cam belt and bingo spark timing is now wrong again.
the Distributor is run off the rear of the cam. so,, the CAM is first always. check timing if retarded, the belt did slip, or even a belt put in wrongs
using the false marks.
i think the 90 has no false marks, unless engine was swapped to newer, G16 and bingo cam cog marks are wrong. (1/2 of them) per my page on same.
On the USA car the engine, block left rear has serial number
G16L12345 "L" means 1990 block.
how is this? cheers.
PS:
Id be all over the engine at stall, to see if spark is good. (using even a fresh new test spark plug out of my glove box. classic spark tests)
best time to diagnose, is the moment of failure. bar none.
in fact , keeping timing light with me, at all times. when I suspect spark issues.
one car I had the timing light duct taped to the windshield wiper, passenger side, pointed to my mug, and me driving around the block, trigger taped too.
the bam, spark ended as engine to hot, bad distrib. hates hot engines.
In fact ive even removed the hood to do that, (no rain) I find testing saves money, but others sees spark go dead, and buy a new DISTRIB and end this.
not my call, but do test spark when engines die, and Secret unflood test fails. (WOT cranking)
$20
http://www.fixkick.com/tools/strobe.jpg
make sure spark gaps is .028" this is spec, NGK gaps them for HEI spark systems, .045" that you dont have.
symptoms;:
lack of power.
" for it to cool before we can restart "( at this time I'd check spark plug 1 for flooding, if not soaked in fuel cranked dead, then now check spark. (wide open TV, cranking cuts fuel and this failed, so suggests big time lost spark) (TV is throttle valve) in the TB, is throttle body.
if spark is gone, the DISTRIBUTOR NEEDS WORK. (even the VR gap can be wrong , or ignitor bad.)
EGR valve is stuck, (main, valve below TB) IF IT sticks open, engine will want to stall. it can not be allowed to stick open. (very very common)
The EGR is only on line driving, (on very old cars it even works parked hot)
when running it coughs, (this is lean ) and not backfiring BOOM from end of tail pipe,so the lean sign and or timing off.
Just the lean sign, can be bad clogged filter.
my question on engine heat, are kinda moot if car cant be driven , to see if engine has full power, and the risk of getting stranded doing so...attempting.
sure. but you can idle it until it gets to 180F, 180F is normal temp or 195 is using a 195F thermostat.
the test is easy lacking an IR gun, see dash engine heat meter go past center, then touch the top RAD hose, if it gets hot, so hot the hand flies off this is
normal 180F, too hot to handle the hose, long. say for 1min, ouch., that is test that works on all cars, made.
if say the thermostat is (missing or bad, or some horrid 160fput there) it will flood, due to being locked in ECU cold start mode, rich as pig.
this turns the spark tips black, (telling you, Im too rich big time)
now the filter, it can be bad, if bad, the car will not want to have power, the pressure up where you are will be like 34psi, (low end of spec)
This is the job of the FPR, it lowers pressure at 3500 feet. for the injector to flow correctly at the Low pressure altitude.
FPR is on front side of TB, Fuel pressure regulator, they can go bad, if the vacuum hose removed show gas dripping its bad. or fails pressure tests.
The filter is next to the tank.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/TBI-conn-1w.jpg
ON cars like this is check spark timing first, on this car, 2 check
is the spark timing correct? if not? the cam belt slipped. takes me 5min work and oops, RETARDED timing, the 60k mile tune up was skipped.
if that is correct, then I race the engine fast to see if those hidden advancing weights are working in the base of that old rusty distributor.
these distribs can advance out to 30 to 40 degrees' (left side of scale , and way off it to the left) left is ADVANCED timing, to the right of 0 is retarded and
when retarded that means the cam belt slipped as all do past 60k and maybe to 100k,, bam, slips.
our store harbor Freight sells a fuel pressure gauge, see hose on right that fits your car, at the filter test port.
http://www.fixkick.com/tools/fuel_pressure_18usd.jpg
I always check spark first. then fuel pressure.
and for sure, when engines dies, spark, test pronto and spark tip colors. (is it dry, is it wet, is it soaked in fuel is it black,oil soaked?)
this is the EGR main, its revolutionized, and the ring is there.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/EGR/egr-main2.jpg
the EGR tests are all on a hot engine, but that does not mean at all that we ignore it on a cold engine.
the EGR must not stick open, on a cold engine or hot. if it sticks open it sucks exhaust gases into the induction and engine stalls or run like crap.
this is a linear function, it can stick a tiny bit, more, , 1/2 stuck or stuck fully out 5mm.
the push test only shows that it is free, and when you release the ring, there, it slams shut, (spring inside) and thunk sound happens
EGR love to stick, its there THING. (last bad one I had stuck only while arriving to a stop sign, engine stalls.) Loves to fail driving, sticks....
on a hot engine you push it , it stalls the engine, , on cold engine same.
the hot test is done, all EGR tests because the EGR is off line cold , at idle (VSV valve is dead) . for same reason, but the push test is always a valid test. to see if its OK, not messed up. (in its own right)
once the EGR is ok, we can see it move, as you gun the throttle by hand,, on some newer USA cars, the car must be moving to allow it to move at all.
but not this old canada car, and most real canada cars , (hood stickers show it is) do not have the ECU DTC errors of 51, weak EGR.
Up in canada the car can be, USA fed,USA CALIF. or Canada, or gray market, the hood stickers tell you what car you really own.
Bad gas, sure, only a sample of fuel needs be taken. (doing so is tricky on this very secure and tight system. 60psi it can be under pressure.
but the test is easy. after its put in glass jar ( tank cap off ,siphon out gas method can work)
sniff sniff, does it smell ok? like fresh gas? the sniff test, passing
then let gas sit in jar for 15min,. (it settles out)
do you see water balls floating on the bottom? , yes, oops water in fuel.
if you park a car put that gas protection in the tank, 1year , needs this.
STABIL gas treatment.
you did a tune up with
No new fuel filter (air too?)
no new belt? CAM>?
no spark timing check, ive seen many cars like that with timing wrong after the belt change, this is because the previous owner found timing wrong
set the distributor to wrong timing, on wrong timed cam, then fixed the cam belt and bingo spark timing is now wrong again.
the Distributor is run off the rear of the cam. so,, the CAM is first always. check timing if retarded, the belt did slip, or even a belt put in wrongs
using the false marks.
i think the 90 has no false marks, unless engine was swapped to newer, G16 and bingo cam cog marks are wrong. (1/2 of them) per my page on same.
On the USA car the engine, block left rear has serial number
G16L12345 "L" means 1990 block.
how is this? cheers.
PS:
Id be all over the engine at stall, to see if spark is good. (using even a fresh new test spark plug out of my glove box. classic spark tests)
best time to diagnose, is the moment of failure. bar none.
in fact , keeping timing light with me, at all times. when I suspect spark issues.
one car I had the timing light duct taped to the windshield wiper, passenger side, pointed to my mug, and me driving around the block, trigger taped too.
the bam, spark ended as engine to hot, bad distrib. hates hot engines.
In fact ive even removed the hood to do that, (no rain) I find testing saves money, but others sees spark go dead, and buy a new DISTRIB and end this.
not my call, but do test spark when engines die, and Secret unflood test fails. (WOT cranking)
$20
http://www.fixkick.com/tools/strobe.jpg
make sure spark gaps is .028" this is spec, NGK gaps them for HEI spark systems, .045" that you dont have.
http://www.fixkick.com