as you can see,diagnosis is complex!
guessing at bad parts, is super long down time , long labor, (tank off 3 times?) or very costly
we check pressure first on all EFI (and do all pressure test , not just one)
when it fails the FPR tested,
if that works we check voltage next, not pull tank until voltage is seen ok on the last connector pair good.
most on the road, cars EFI the ECU is blind to pressure, no sensor. so that is always first , anytime fueling seems weak or too much.
and a new car it tells you pressure is good. or bad. nice but (the ECU brain dont know why only IS)
then we do the same thing, the same way..
we have a video of master shop showing the lab scope current probe test, on the pump wire.
where he says, see here, see the classic commutator shorts?
in a shop they do one test, and its all over (electric test) Shows volts and amps at one go.
the pump is fuel cooled and fuel lubricated, do dont forget that.
dont run it dry, it hates that.
guessing at bad parts, is super long down time , long labor, (tank off 3 times?) or very costly
we check pressure first on all EFI (and do all pressure test , not just one)
when it fails the FPR tested,
if that works we check voltage next, not pull tank until voltage is seen ok on the last connector pair good.
most on the road, cars EFI the ECU is blind to pressure, no sensor. so that is always first , anytime fueling seems weak or too much.
and a new car it tells you pressure is good. or bad. nice but (the ECU brain dont know why only IS)
then we do the same thing, the same way..
we have a video of master shop showing the lab scope current probe test, on the pump wire.
where he says, see here, see the classic commutator shorts?
in a shop they do one test, and its all over (electric test) Shows volts and amps at one go.
the pump is fuel cooled and fuel lubricated, do dont forget that.
dont run it dry, it hates that.
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