Bad gas? nah.
[quote='gorkyb' pid='440' dateline='1372858697']
I took it all down again to inspect proper timing (not jumped belt) and to inspect rubber on crank pulley, the rubber looks a little cracked but it doesn't seem to be completely separated from the center part. I was able to time it with the strobe light afterwards. Between all this I tried a spare distributor I have but the car lost power to the point where it could barely move, I figure timing was wrong
so I tried several times and I was either too advanced or too retarded but never right on like the other distributor I had in there, is it possible the gear at the bottom of the distributor slipped? anyway, I put back the old one, made sure I inspected everything I could imagine, HV wires, spark plugs and their wells, wiring to TPS and distributor, all contacts under fender fuse box, injectors (connectors and clicking sound), sat there for 20 minutes from cold until it warmed up watching the scanner and all readings are within specs, o2 sensor is hunting and MAF is near .3v at idle at it goes up when depressing gas pedal. goes up means little, how far at what load , only has meaning.
If spark is good, and compression over 170, then its fueling. (lots of ways to have that go bad, even bad gas)
is not , .3v wrong? the scan tool shows Gram/ sec?
keep in mind the ecu only warns of a bad maf, when TOTALLY DEAD and never ever warns ( directly) that it is way OFF spec.
The MAF must work, if not , there will be no power, the MAF is the KECSTONE to the whole system. (injections)!!
unplug it and you get back 1/2 the power, (limphome)
best i can tell, here is suz spec , MAF OUT.
[color=#FF0000]off = 0 volts
keyon (only) 1.0
[quote='gorkyb' pid='440' dateline='1372858697']
I took it all down again to inspect proper timing (not jumped belt) and to inspect rubber on crank pulley, the rubber looks a little cracked but it doesn't seem to be completely separated from the center part. I was able to time it with the strobe light afterwards. Between all this I tried a spare distributor I have but the car lost power to the point where it could barely move, I figure timing was wrong
so I tried several times and I was either too advanced or too retarded but never right on like the other distributor I had in there, is it possible the gear at the bottom of the distributor slipped? anyway, I put back the old one, made sure I inspected everything I could imagine, HV wires, spark plugs and their wells, wiring to TPS and distributor, all contacts under fender fuse box, injectors (connectors and clicking sound), sat there for 20 minutes from cold until it warmed up watching the scanner and all readings are within specs, o2 sensor is hunting and MAF is near .3v at idle at it goes up when depressing gas pedal. goes up means little, how far at what load , only has meaning.
If spark is good, and compression over 170, then its fueling. (lots of ways to have that go bad, even bad gas)
is not , .3v wrong? the scan tool shows Gram/ sec?
keep in mind the ecu only warns of a bad maf, when TOTALLY DEAD and never ever warns ( directly) that it is way OFF spec.
The MAF must work, if not , there will be no power, the MAF is the KECSTONE to the whole system. (injections)!!
unplug it and you get back 1/2 the power, (limphome)
best i can tell, here is suz spec , MAF OUT.
[color=#FF0000]off = 0 volts
keyon (only) 1.0
http://www.fixkick.com