Well I got back home and started to tinker around with the Tracker. The idle problem I had magically fixed itself as now it is running smoothly again. So the idle problem I had is gone with no apparent reason as to why it did that.
This is so common, with ISC sticking, or brake poster diaphragm cracks. etc.
or the duty cycle set wrong. on the cusp of near closed ISC, and a timing leak puts it, OUT OF RANGE.
sorry for my type.
G16A is not A it a 4,
note hoq a 4 looks like and A, 4 = 1994,
only usa engines have code there, so if code for year missing its and imported G16. (from Mexico or canada,, imported from japan as a JDM engine)
its USA laws that dictate all this... its 4, there, and can be hard to tell.
my guess now if its a 4, then some one needed a new intake, and got the wrong one, i can see its the 1st year manifold, easy.
its no big deal, use Tee fitting added and EVAP now works.
the left lower , engine flange at the bell has the number, with serial, G164123456 (see that 4 that is year, the 123456 is serial number of engine)
its not cast in place, its stamped on with a steel embossed stamp die and hammer,
The U = GM code for 8v valve head.
the 2CN means made in CAMI plant, canada.
3R (3 is 1993 model car, R is plant code)
getting all air leaks fixed first then doing the duty cycle , right , then the ISC is at 50% and now idle can never be wrong hot,
when set correctly the ISC can drop idle to 400 rpm easy. ( if it wanted to but does not, the ECU is hard coded for 800s , when a leak happens
the isc closes and hides the leak in under 1 second flat)
imagine if you will a huge tank of water, say 500 gallons.
and 3 persons with buckets and the huge tank is filled to 250 gallons, at 50% capacity.
and the first two bucket men are ISC man 1, and IAC man 2, man1 can adds water and other can only remove it ( the ECU is bucket 1 and 2)
bucket man 3 is the wild card, the wild man who is thief . (water thief, and sometimes maniacal.)
the thief steals water. and can sometimes he , can dip his bucket faster than man 1,
the results is the tank goes dry, (and engine stalls.) an analogy,.,.
the thief is vacuum leaks.
or can be man1 or 2, has a broken arm (isc sticks, ecu bad, or in backup mode or limphome both cancel idle controls ISC goes off line)
so if idle is not 800 hot, (+ or - 50 rpm) then we know one of 3 things, the thief is to active. or the ISC is malf'ing. or the calibration is wrong
that being not at 250 gallons. normal. called 50% duty cycle..
it can be as simple as some played with the idle bleed screw on the air horn.(unscrewed)
or changed the idle stop screw, both wrong, double trouble, if both set wrong (open) the ISC will go 100% closed. or 99%
then next day the 99% hits 100 and ISC is now closed 100% and off line. it can not close more than 100%.
when that happens idle controls are off line. and out of control..
one more idea what is crazy PO with his 1989 intake , put in TEE fitting, to make evap work right,
I also see the VSV EVAP forward mount is screw is missing that is because there is no VSV here, in 1989. so he just found a black single hole there, and
screwed on the 94 bracket there. now the hose has no home, on the VSV (evap.) the fix is put a standard vacuum TEE on the dash pot. vacuum line.
the one the feeds the dash pot VSV valve. (hard vacuum at idle)
now the EVAP works 100%
id not TEE the map line, its sacred, id never mess with that line.
This photo is very clear (top left, rear of engine bell)
see this photo.? see how its a STAMPING< not a CASTING?
this is left side of engine, 100% rear and is the rear engine to bell housing flange there.
The red arrow 2 is front of car direction.
to the left is exhaust pipe and that huge bolt is the largest bolt on the trans, engine connection.
this view is looking down. to the rear of exhaust manifold. my T is your 4. T= 96, 4 = 1994. then a 6 digit serial.
![[Image: my-motor-serial1w.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/specs/Body-TAGS/my-motor-serial1w.jpg)
first things i do are.
1: make sure dashpot servo rod retracts 100% running,)
2: not running, i retract it by hand the look at the TV eyeballed< it must be 100% closed. 99.9 or .0005" gap. it so closed water can not pass there.
3: then count turns on the air bleed. from closed, do not force it closed, just gently, its a needle type valve, and all have that rule.
if idle controls fail 1/2 time, turn it (bleed) in 1 turn, if idle then regulates, then it was out too far.
the calibration is not easy, lacking a scope or duty meter.
with the duty meter attached there, we turn the bleed to 50% and call it a day.
sometimes if real lucky, and your cheap DMM is real fast, (most are slugs) it will show 7vdc = 50% duty
this is because its so fast it averages 14v and 0v on the square wave signal of ISC the 7v is 1/2 duty.
one of my 5 meters, do that. other s not.
here is my cheap duty meter, it does work. sold on ebay.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/dutycycle/2800b.JPG
not to mention clean ISC ...
This is so common, with ISC sticking, or brake poster diaphragm cracks. etc.
or the duty cycle set wrong. on the cusp of near closed ISC, and a timing leak puts it, OUT OF RANGE.
sorry for my type.
G16A is not A it a 4,
note hoq a 4 looks like and A, 4 = 1994,
only usa engines have code there, so if code for year missing its and imported G16. (from Mexico or canada,, imported from japan as a JDM engine)
its USA laws that dictate all this... its 4, there, and can be hard to tell.
my guess now if its a 4, then some one needed a new intake, and got the wrong one, i can see its the 1st year manifold, easy.
its no big deal, use Tee fitting added and EVAP now works.
Quote: As for the motor year I looked all over and found this code on the back side of engine on drivers side. "G16A" No other numbers or letters could be found.ahhhhh, that is not serial number, those car casted in numbers, die cast. alum.
the left lower , engine flange at the bell has the number, with serial, G164123456 (see that 4 that is year, the 123456 is serial number of engine)
its not cast in place, its stamped on with a steel embossed stamp die and hammer,
Quote:Will that help with engine year. VIN CODE 2CNBE18U3R69xxxx (x last 4 numbers). Title says 1994,all that is body codes, not engine.
The U = GM code for 8v valve head.
the 2CN means made in CAMI plant, canada.
3R (3 is 1993 model car, R is plant code)
Quote:I guess for $500 and some minor work... (brakes, AT pan gasket, one window regulator) I can't ask for too much. Added to pics of the car just to show what it is.its a deal, ive done many like that $500 cars..
getting all air leaks fixed first then doing the duty cycle , right , then the ISC is at 50% and now idle can never be wrong hot,
when set correctly the ISC can drop idle to 400 rpm easy. ( if it wanted to but does not, the ECU is hard coded for 800s , when a leak happens
the isc closes and hides the leak in under 1 second flat)
imagine if you will a huge tank of water, say 500 gallons.
and 3 persons with buckets and the huge tank is filled to 250 gallons, at 50% capacity.
and the first two bucket men are ISC man 1, and IAC man 2, man1 can adds water and other can only remove it ( the ECU is bucket 1 and 2)
bucket man 3 is the wild card, the wild man who is thief . (water thief, and sometimes maniacal.)
the thief steals water. and can sometimes he , can dip his bucket faster than man 1,
the results is the tank goes dry, (and engine stalls.) an analogy,.,.
the thief is vacuum leaks.
or can be man1 or 2, has a broken arm (isc sticks, ecu bad, or in backup mode or limphome both cancel idle controls ISC goes off line)
so if idle is not 800 hot, (+ or - 50 rpm) then we know one of 3 things, the thief is to active. or the ISC is malf'ing. or the calibration is wrong
that being not at 250 gallons. normal. called 50% duty cycle..
it can be as simple as some played with the idle bleed screw on the air horn.(unscrewed)
or changed the idle stop screw, both wrong, double trouble, if both set wrong (open) the ISC will go 100% closed. or 99%
then next day the 99% hits 100 and ISC is now closed 100% and off line. it can not close more than 100%.
when that happens idle controls are off line. and out of control..
one more idea what is crazy PO with his 1989 intake , put in TEE fitting, to make evap work right,
I also see the VSV EVAP forward mount is screw is missing that is because there is no VSV here, in 1989. so he just found a black single hole there, and
screwed on the 94 bracket there. now the hose has no home, on the VSV (evap.) the fix is put a standard vacuum TEE on the dash pot. vacuum line.
the one the feeds the dash pot VSV valve. (hard vacuum at idle)
now the EVAP works 100%
id not TEE the map line, its sacred, id never mess with that line.
This photo is very clear (top left, rear of engine bell)
see this photo.? see how its a STAMPING< not a CASTING?
this is left side of engine, 100% rear and is the rear engine to bell housing flange there.
The red arrow 2 is front of car direction.
to the left is exhaust pipe and that huge bolt is the largest bolt on the trans, engine connection.
this view is looking down. to the rear of exhaust manifold. my T is your 4. T= 96, 4 = 1994. then a 6 digit serial.
first things i do are.
1: make sure dashpot servo rod retracts 100% running,)
2: not running, i retract it by hand the look at the TV eyeballed< it must be 100% closed. 99.9 or .0005" gap. it so closed water can not pass there.
3: then count turns on the air bleed. from closed, do not force it closed, just gently, its a needle type valve, and all have that rule.
if idle controls fail 1/2 time, turn it (bleed) in 1 turn, if idle then regulates, then it was out too far.
the calibration is not easy, lacking a scope or duty meter.
with the duty meter attached there, we turn the bleed to 50% and call it a day.
sometimes if real lucky, and your cheap DMM is real fast, (most are slugs) it will show 7vdc = 50% duty
this is because its so fast it averages 14v and 0v on the square wave signal of ISC the 7v is 1/2 duty.
one of my 5 meters, do that. other s not.
here is my cheap duty meter, it does work. sold on ebay.
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/dutycycle/2800b.JPG
not to mention clean ISC ...
http://www.fixkick.com