Found the broken wire!
I'll try and answer each one of your points..
1. Cleaned MAF with the CRC MAF cleaner
2. I have no Crank Position Sensor
3. With my header its not easy to see, but here's what I have for an engine code. 16 W 816451 The W is slightly marred (see pic) but I'm 95% sure that what it is
4. Checked all 5 gray/yellow wire grounds with my Fluke MM (I think its pretty accurate)
- Water Temp = .9 Ohms, Red wire has 4.14 Volts
- EGR = 1.2 Ohms, power is 4.45V
- TPS = 1.4 Ohms,
- Air Temp Sensor = 1.2 Ohms, power is 4.7V
During the initial tests my resistance test kept going all over when I wiggled the wire. I found it had completely broke inside right at the connector. I stripped it back and reconnected it with little clips for continued testing. It now reads 1.2 Ohms consistently. This might explain the error codes last night
- O2 = 1.3 Ohms
Was there a 6th?
5. Pulled my ECU out, (grounding myself) opened it. It looks clean on both sides of the board, no leaking Caps.
6. Reinstalled everything and reran the DLC test and now I only get CODE 12. I warmed up the rig for 10 min and that is still the only code. I will let it cool down and see if I still have cold start issues.
Thoughts on the ECU?
What is it?
What do you think of the engine code? Isn't that a 98? which doesn't make sense based on electronics
Also what is this? And does it need to be grounded?
I'll try and answer each one of your points..
1. Cleaned MAF with the CRC MAF cleaner
2. I have no Crank Position Sensor
3. With my header its not easy to see, but here's what I have for an engine code. 16 W 816451 The W is slightly marred (see pic) but I'm 95% sure that what it is
4. Checked all 5 gray/yellow wire grounds with my Fluke MM (I think its pretty accurate)
- Water Temp = .9 Ohms, Red wire has 4.14 Volts
- EGR = 1.2 Ohms, power is 4.45V
- TPS = 1.4 Ohms,
- Air Temp Sensor = 1.2 Ohms, power is 4.7V
During the initial tests my resistance test kept going all over when I wiggled the wire. I found it had completely broke inside right at the connector. I stripped it back and reconnected it with little clips for continued testing. It now reads 1.2 Ohms consistently. This might explain the error codes last night
- O2 = 1.3 Ohms
Was there a 6th?
5. Pulled my ECU out, (grounding myself) opened it. It looks clean on both sides of the board, no leaking Caps.
6. Reinstalled everything and reran the DLC test and now I only get CODE 12. I warmed up the rig for 10 min and that is still the only code. I will let it cool down and see if I still have cold start issues.
Thoughts on the ECU?
What is it?
What do you think of the engine code? Isn't that a 98? which doesn't make sense based on electronics
Also what is this? And does it need to be grounded?