welcome mr. Dylan Esteem with G16B
stalls? (cuts out? , or transmission flares, slips)
bogs, at WOT, (if not misfiring (scan it yet, driving, get P0300s misfires all cyl random? ) misfire is violent. bog is like dragging a 2000 pound lead brick.
Fuel pump is to spec? using a real pressure gauge and testing for pressure at WOT, ? for 1second? parked?
i guess that free mech, never say a scan tool before (in usa all tools scan all 99 cars, all) my posts are USA< so?
"removed the airbox and put a kn filter right off the intake tube", (so you dont like stock parts that work great? most of those mods are bad. (CAI sucks too,most)
if you took off intake resonators and (looks like screens) and shorted the paths, the log path makes better low end torque,. what is what works best on street cars.
and the aircleaner box front parts, work in bug and ice storms,(works all the time)
and if done wrong the MAF air meter bounces or gets turbulent air, making it go nuts. (at times odd) (sorry but most mods, are downgrades. fact)
sure front wheel drive, sure. (matters not, same engine)
Scans, (the PCM never lies about this, but any loose cam drive , can i fact fool the ECU/pCM )
bad cam position sensor (do post real DTC's please.)
cps is very very old name, 1980s, it's called CMP or CAS now, cam sensor or cam angle sensor, (not arguing names at all,) but with no DTC i must scratch head. "P0340 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit " that one?
the first thing to do day 1 with any G16B
is to make sure the crank pulley bolt is at full spec, tight torque, 17mm deep wall stock CW rotation, at 94/ft/lbs.
if loose cry and most A/T cars that last guy , lazy mech. failed to set it correct. (locking crank and using a real torque wrench, yes, lazy)
day2:
the car has a cam belt drive. and is replaced every 60,000 miles, with a GATES belt not EBay China, no name trash.
if the belt or idler fails, the belt then flops, then slips, and Cam time retards, and compression, tanks. 170psi to 80 easy. (800cc engine like)
if the CMP sees this wild jog , it thinks(sic) oh my gosh what the H3LL is that, ? yes, it is stupid PCM but it will try its best to do timing. with belt bad.
and FAIL, it will , in many ways, (timing, and horrid engine compression ,now or soon)
it sees this error by comparing CKP to CMP, signals. full time. live.
it sees, the CKP as (master, and is) then sees the CMP jump like mad. (inconsistent)
the ratio is 2:1 ( Crank to CAM) , if the ratio keeps changing, the PCM is flummoxed. (
did you scan with full data streaming and look at all live data?
hot idle 800
ECT near 180F or more holding, (coolant)
iat like 125F? (depends on out door air temp)
like im doing hear on a 96 (same engine)
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/Authority/A_F..._scan.html
using a scan tool , you can see lots of crazy things. like hot closed loop failing,
including my MAF plots. i have live driving maf plots there, (no body else does this) not even the FSM does this,, and is key to wide open throttle WOT performance.
a scan tool is $10 (ELM) and works on even free, relic laptops, USB port needed only)
hand tools are good too.(scan) like the Innova 3160 , does all cars, even 2015 (buy one and its good for near ever)
stalls? (cuts out? , or transmission flares, slips)
bogs, at WOT, (if not misfiring (scan it yet, driving, get P0300s misfires all cyl random? ) misfire is violent. bog is like dragging a 2000 pound lead brick.
Fuel pump is to spec? using a real pressure gauge and testing for pressure at WOT, ? for 1second? parked?
i guess that free mech, never say a scan tool before (in usa all tools scan all 99 cars, all) my posts are USA< so?
"removed the airbox and put a kn filter right off the intake tube", (so you dont like stock parts that work great? most of those mods are bad. (CAI sucks too,most)
if you took off intake resonators and (looks like screens) and shorted the paths, the log path makes better low end torque,. what is what works best on street cars.
and the aircleaner box front parts, work in bug and ice storms,(works all the time)
and if done wrong the MAF air meter bounces or gets turbulent air, making it go nuts. (at times odd) (sorry but most mods, are downgrades. fact)
sure front wheel drive, sure. (matters not, same engine)
Scans, (the PCM never lies about this, but any loose cam drive , can i fact fool the ECU/pCM )
bad cam position sensor (do post real DTC's please.)
cps is very very old name, 1980s, it's called CMP or CAS now, cam sensor or cam angle sensor, (not arguing names at all,) but with no DTC i must scratch head. "P0340 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit " that one?
the first thing to do day 1 with any G16B
is to make sure the crank pulley bolt is at full spec, tight torque, 17mm deep wall stock CW rotation, at 94/ft/lbs.
if loose cry and most A/T cars that last guy , lazy mech. failed to set it correct. (locking crank and using a real torque wrench, yes, lazy)
day2:
the car has a cam belt drive. and is replaced every 60,000 miles, with a GATES belt not EBay China, no name trash.
if the belt or idler fails, the belt then flops, then slips, and Cam time retards, and compression, tanks. 170psi to 80 easy. (800cc engine like)
if the CMP sees this wild jog , it thinks(sic) oh my gosh what the H3LL is that, ? yes, it is stupid PCM but it will try its best to do timing. with belt bad.
and FAIL, it will , in many ways, (timing, and horrid engine compression ,now or soon)
it sees this error by comparing CKP to CMP, signals. full time. live.
it sees, the CKP as (master, and is) then sees the CMP jump like mad. (inconsistent)
the ratio is 2:1 ( Crank to CAM) , if the ratio keeps changing, the PCM is flummoxed. (
did you scan with full data streaming and look at all live data?
hot idle 800
ECT near 180F or more holding, (coolant)
iat like 125F? (depends on out door air temp)
like im doing hear on a 96 (same engine)
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/Authority/A_F..._scan.html
using a scan tool , you can see lots of crazy things. like hot closed loop failing,
including my MAF plots. i have live driving maf plots there, (no body else does this) not even the FSM does this,, and is key to wide open throttle WOT performance.
a scan tool is $10 (ELM) and works on even free, relic laptops, USB port needed only)
hand tools are good too.(scan) like the Innova 3160 , does all cars, even 2015 (buy one and its good for near ever)
http://www.fixkick.com