11-17-2014, 03:01 PM
Hello, I am new to this site and have found the responses very helpful, however I have not found a similar response to my problem.
I have a 1994 GEO tracker, 1.6L, 8v. The rear brake cylinders blew, the battery mount was bad, and it was running rough where there was not much power until it warmed up for 10-15 minutes. I pulled it into the garage on Saturday repaired the brakes and battery mount then checked the compression on each cylinder by:
1. Disconnecting the wire from the coil to the distributor
2. Removing a spark plug one at a time
3. Connecting the compression tester
4. Cranking the engine until the needle stabilized
5. Replace the spark plug and continuing from steps 2-4 until all the cylinders were checked.
The range was 105-110psi for all cylinders.
When I replaced the coil cable and tried to start the engine, it did not start. I have been trouble shooting by:
1. Verifying the firing order of the spark plug wires - correct as 1-3-4-2.
2. Connecting an inductive timing light to each wire and cranking the engine - light strobes for each wire.
3. Checked for fuel by removing the return line and verified it was pumping out.
4. Replaced each spark plug with a new spark plug.
5. Tested each fuse by the battery and found them to be operational.
6. Inspected the distributor cap and rotor, the cap has a white residue that I removed, the rotor cap looks worn.
The auto part store was closed by the time I got to the distributor cap and rotor and I will get a replacement tomorrow. It appears that the coil is giving a spark from the strobe light check. However, upon reading more from the threads, it looks like I need to connect a spark plug directly to the coil wire and check for a blue spark which I will do tomorrow.
Tomorrow:
1. New cap and rotor
2. Check spark with spark plug
I would like some input into other items that might have caused this issue. It had no problems starting and running until Friday and after checking the compression, it is not running.
Dan
I have a 1994 GEO tracker, 1.6L, 8v. The rear brake cylinders blew, the battery mount was bad, and it was running rough where there was not much power until it warmed up for 10-15 minutes. I pulled it into the garage on Saturday repaired the brakes and battery mount then checked the compression on each cylinder by:
1. Disconnecting the wire from the coil to the distributor
2. Removing a spark plug one at a time
3. Connecting the compression tester
4. Cranking the engine until the needle stabilized
5. Replace the spark plug and continuing from steps 2-4 until all the cylinders were checked.
The range was 105-110psi for all cylinders.
When I replaced the coil cable and tried to start the engine, it did not start. I have been trouble shooting by:
1. Verifying the firing order of the spark plug wires - correct as 1-3-4-2.
2. Connecting an inductive timing light to each wire and cranking the engine - light strobes for each wire.
3. Checked for fuel by removing the return line and verified it was pumping out.
4. Replaced each spark plug with a new spark plug.
5. Tested each fuse by the battery and found them to be operational.
6. Inspected the distributor cap and rotor, the cap has a white residue that I removed, the rotor cap looks worn.
The auto part store was closed by the time I got to the distributor cap and rotor and I will get a replacement tomorrow. It appears that the coil is giving a spark from the strobe light check. However, upon reading more from the threads, it looks like I need to connect a spark plug directly to the coil wire and check for a blue spark which I will do tomorrow.
Tomorrow:
1. New cap and rotor
2. Check spark with spark plug
I would like some input into other items that might have caused this issue. It had no problems starting and running until Friday and after checking the compression, it is not running.
Dan