c101, sure.
here is the suzuki official ecu page for usa and canada. world wide , huge number of types,
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/EPC-ECU96-98/...9-95NA.pdf
is it black that cap? and does any say rubycon?
id replace them both. the dry out , some do with no external warnings, bulges ,cracks or leaks.
58B50 is Calif, rules, 16v M/T ECU 1993 so is a match.the under hood sticker might say, compliance USA fed and calif regs.
for sure leaking is a bad sigh, very bad, if the traces are not eaten to nothing, your ok, just replace it, its polarized. long bar strip is Negative.
im not sure what 101 would upset, but am 100% its not a good thing,, after all noise can cause crazy things to happen in digital and analog electronics
in fact that is #1 to all board tech',s NOISE tests on power.
1:visual
2: get new caps on old boards."electrolytics" many now are already replaced, most long ago gave up the Rubycon ghost.
3: noise tests
4: full testing. (logic, vibration and thermal cycling)
i think there are only 2. caps
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU16v_92-95.html
the others are good for long haul. real long.
electrolytic are the Achilles heel of electronics. (the stories, are endless, here, ) back in the TUBE days, 10x worse for heat.
i did see a 20 year old ECU new in box, and the caps were good, proving to me ,that heat is the killer, never seen a good used (RAN)old Rubycon yet.
only the unsoldering is hard.
takes TLC, and skill. (not overheating pads etc)
i think a new front crank bolt
and new caps up to 1995 , are the top fix on this car.
best bang for buck long term. ($10 + $3)
here is the suzuki official ecu page for usa and canada. world wide , huge number of types,
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/EPC-ECU96-98/...9-95NA.pdf
is it black that cap? and does any say rubycon?
id replace them both. the dry out , some do with no external warnings, bulges ,cracks or leaks.
58B50 is Calif, rules, 16v M/T ECU 1993 so is a match.the under hood sticker might say, compliance USA fed and calif regs.
for sure leaking is a bad sigh, very bad, if the traces are not eaten to nothing, your ok, just replace it, its polarized. long bar strip is Negative.
im not sure what 101 would upset, but am 100% its not a good thing,, after all noise can cause crazy things to happen in digital and analog electronics
in fact that is #1 to all board tech',s NOISE tests on power.
1:visual
2: get new caps on old boards."electrolytics" many now are already replaced, most long ago gave up the Rubycon ghost.
3: noise tests
4: full testing. (logic, vibration and thermal cycling)
i think there are only 2. caps
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU16v_92-95.html
the others are good for long haul. real long.
electrolytic are the Achilles heel of electronics. (the stories, are endless, here, ) back in the TUBE days, 10x worse for heat.
i did see a 20 year old ECU new in box, and the caps were good, proving to me ,that heat is the killer, never seen a good used (RAN)old Rubycon yet.
only the unsoldering is hard.
takes TLC, and skill. (not overheating pads etc)
i think a new front crank bolt
and new caps up to 1995 , are the top fix on this car.
best bang for buck long term. ($10 + $3)
http://www.fixkick.com