03-20-2014, 01:17 AM
Many many thanks, Ur explanation makes it alot clearer- gonna get some coffee and peruse the rest of the site -I'll keep my eyes and nose open- Great Info- great site--! 98TrackerMan
(03-19-2014, 11:23 PM)fixkick Wrote: welcome for sure !
any scan tool can clear the codes or pull the dome fuse for 2-5minutes. bam cleared.
evap tests are the most odd tests of all.
EVAP can even delay, the testing until the tank drops level below 3/4 full ( hint it needs air space to work) (EVAP MONITORS)
Most cars, take up to 30 mins driving fast to get ALL evap monitors to run and clear. (or fail)
i'd not touch EVAP ,until it throws a code. (or comes back 1 or 2 times)
the fsm covers this and is many long convoluted tests with vacuum gauges, a voltmeter, and pressure leak downtests, using shop air. (fsm says use dry nitrogen for safety)
it's just a tank vent, if not smog tested, its no big deal. we drove for near 100 years, with none.
but it is then #1 cause of air pollution today. 1billion cars moving now.
EVAP just catches the fumes, and the burns them, zero smog.
my newer car 08 has an on-board EVAP pressure generating pump that does even move tests. and more things to break.
if the system works, when you remove the cap on a hot day, it will blast you with fuels, cold morning, then it gets hot outside, and pressure builds, and it blasts you, cap off'd.
this is normal. and a sign it working and holding pressure, as pressure builds the relief valve opens and deposits said fumes in the charcoal bed (canister) for run time suck out.
when you drive the engine sucks the fumes out.