it's bad.
great questions, both, can switch be had neat? and does it vary from non sport;. no,no
SMP sells the same switch US812 for both cars. $150 full set, no switch only. at rockauto.com
suz. lockset, p/n 37103-60850-5ES (5es is color black) 97/98 only and fits 1.6 and 1.8 car
2x that at suz.
http://www.suzukicarparts.com/parts/inde...eid=214820
quotes:
some switches can be take apart, (rivets drilled out,etc) and cleaned, and contacts,silversoldered if perforated. then regreased and put in service.
the A/T PRNDL switch is like that, and having a new key kinda stinks. id buy the new switch assy. and swap the end.
the key switch assy, mount has tamper screws, remove them by any means and use hex screws to put back in,.
The Key Switch assembly/ column has 2 tamper proof bolts, you grind flats to heads , then unscrew with vise grips and trash them.
rumor.
If I get a switch, I'll just change out the actual electric/wired switch part. No reason to fuss with the 'special' bolts, new keys and all that fol-de-rol.
above pn is for 4door A/t car. m/t is diffr and 2door.
i did this many times. (96+ are harder,,,, to get cluster out. so...)
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/clust...r-out.html
great questions, both, can switch be had neat? and does it vary from non sport;. no,no
SMP sells the same switch US812 for both cars. $150 full set, no switch only. at rockauto.com
suz. lockset, p/n 37103-60850-5ES (5es is color black) 97/98 only and fits 1.6 and 1.8 car
2x that at suz.
http://www.suzukicarparts.com/parts/inde...eid=214820
quotes:
some switches can be take apart, (rivets drilled out,etc) and cleaned, and contacts,silversoldered if perforated. then regreased and put in service.
the A/T PRNDL switch is like that, and having a new key kinda stinks. id buy the new switch assy. and swap the end.
the key switch assy, mount has tamper screws, remove them by any means and use hex screws to put back in,.
The Key Switch assembly/ column has 2 tamper proof bolts, you grind flats to heads , then unscrew with vise grips and trash them.
rumor.
If I get a switch, I'll just change out the actual electric/wired switch part. No reason to fuss with the 'special' bolts, new keys and all that fol-de-rol.
above pn is for 4door A/t car. m/t is diffr and 2door.
i did this many times. (96+ are harder,,,, to get cluster out. so...)
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/clust...r-out.html
http://www.fixkick.com