02-03-2014, 12:12 AM
16v 95 (is the the symotoms NO STARTS, you didnt say) so below is Nostarts, and flooding.. help.
no start
floods. but injectors do NOT leak, passes leak test.
code 12, 5sec, cranking, the tach can be near zero due to low battery voltage cranking, it only moves at tiny amount if at all, but no code 41 or 42 means the ECU likes the tach sig , and i trust that.
ever put in new CAPS in that ECU?
the TP pin on the TPS must not be near or over 4vdc cranking, ever. or the ECU cuts fuel, but you are flooding
id have spark strobe light on spark timing very fast, if way off the cam belt slipped. or worse) but 175compression says it didnt slip (1 person out of 100 get good compression but the dizzy timing, is all over the map, and crank key is sheared. Bouncing back and forth, some times the compression is good, from pure luck of the bounce.. rare but seen it 1 time.
I check that bolt for 94 ft/lbs, first. if found loose, bingo. the crank pulley bolt.
this car needs that and good caps to run. the 2 things to check first. on all sidekicks. 95 and older for caps. newer kicks never fail for caps ,ever....
if the ECU is ok, you can do this test
FLOODING:
get it dry. pull the fuel pump relay or the pink wire connector behind, the left rear tail light. this KILLS all FUEL.
now crank it. it must start. if not spark timing is wrong. (weak or dead)
must start and run till the old fuel leave the engine.
then when dry, test fuel works , each time you spray for 3 seconds... spray , runs 3 seconds, spray and repeats, this proves 2 things, the engine is good, and spark is good, and ECU
can make spark each time.
fuel pressure 38 (running or not)
spec: 30-37 PSI running
36-43 not running.
the key on pressure is like 43 and once started (sealevel) the pressure drops 10 psi to 33.. that 10 psi drop is the vacuum going active on a good fuel pressure regulator.
Get the engine to run on test fuel, repeat until happy engine sounds good, then put back the fuel pump relay and we can fix flooding.
The first tests. are all using a voltmeter, (no scan tools for 95, so hard way)
ECT (2 wire coolant sensor)
ECT reads what ohms , parked cold. (connect unlocked and meter on pins of ECT)tell me outdoor temps.?
key on MAF output voltage?
fsm
Next move the probe to the output pin. Gray-black wire, the voltage key on, no start is 1.0
no start
floods. but injectors do NOT leak, passes leak test.
code 12, 5sec, cranking, the tach can be near zero due to low battery voltage cranking, it only moves at tiny amount if at all, but no code 41 or 42 means the ECU likes the tach sig , and i trust that.
ever put in new CAPS in that ECU?
the TP pin on the TPS must not be near or over 4vdc cranking, ever. or the ECU cuts fuel, but you are flooding
id have spark strobe light on spark timing very fast, if way off the cam belt slipped. or worse) but 175compression says it didnt slip (1 person out of 100 get good compression but the dizzy timing, is all over the map, and crank key is sheared. Bouncing back and forth, some times the compression is good, from pure luck of the bounce.. rare but seen it 1 time.
I check that bolt for 94 ft/lbs, first. if found loose, bingo. the crank pulley bolt.
this car needs that and good caps to run. the 2 things to check first. on all sidekicks. 95 and older for caps. newer kicks never fail for caps ,ever....
if the ECU is ok, you can do this test
FLOODING:
get it dry. pull the fuel pump relay or the pink wire connector behind, the left rear tail light. this KILLS all FUEL.
now crank it. it must start. if not spark timing is wrong. (weak or dead)
must start and run till the old fuel leave the engine.
then when dry, test fuel works , each time you spray for 3 seconds... spray , runs 3 seconds, spray and repeats, this proves 2 things, the engine is good, and spark is good, and ECU
can make spark each time.
fuel pressure 38 (running or not)
spec: 30-37 PSI running
36-43 not running.
the key on pressure is like 43 and once started (sealevel) the pressure drops 10 psi to 33.. that 10 psi drop is the vacuum going active on a good fuel pressure regulator.
Get the engine to run on test fuel, repeat until happy engine sounds good, then put back the fuel pump relay and we can fix flooding.
The first tests. are all using a voltmeter, (no scan tools for 95, so hard way)
ECT (2 wire coolant sensor)
ECT reads what ohms , parked cold. (connect unlocked and meter on pins of ECT)tell me outdoor temps.?
key on MAF output voltage?
fsm
Next move the probe to the output pin. Gray-black wire, the voltage key on, no start is 1.0
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