10psi is not bad, in and of itself.
no gauge model stated at a all, nor if 60,80,100,150 psi gauge? (60 is best)
no gauge technology stated, oil pipe line, or sender electric + guage. (no clues,)
no makers of oil, syn, dino and brands of oil, try Chevron Delo 15w-40 if you worry pressure at any engine temp.
MOST gauge is not accurate at 10PSI , that 2% is at full scan only.
A real shop uses a direct connected to the block gallery plug and uses a real; Borden tube meter. not consumer grade toy meters (they have there place cheap meters, but not for real diagnosis)
never pull and engine for the reading of one cheap consumer grade meter, . use a real shop gauge.
do you know how to test your meter for accuracy at 10PSI,, it is easy with shop air, and a regulator and real guage to set it. or just use a real guage and autometer is NOT IT.
the block oil sendr. port, is not NPT threaded, but is BNPT. (British pipe tread, Imperial oddity) do not cross thread it using USA NPT standard treads, the block is aluminum and not iron.
here is the best place to ask, bob the oil guy join and ask. but you fail testing methods , so is first things first error, get a real shop guage and learn to test the correct way. IMO
https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&...aACAvjyUW4
the above uses google site: search trick to find all oil pressure issues.
this post is only hot idle pressure, so.. that is my answer.
if real gauge at block using bourden tube analog gage fails..
1:the oil pan pickup screen tube -oring missing or cracked?
2: the oil just does that, as some can, hot.?
3: engine clearances way to large (they add up one bearing at a time to a total flow)
4: bad pump, ? id think not but why rebuild and engine with an untested oil pump.?? how odd is that and many china clone pumps are pure crap.
5:the pump bypass valve stuck open, well its part of pump so.... moot point here, but is a POINT of failure in the system.
6: oil temps over 270f?
7: OLD oil the dash 40 at the end is what is called the Shear strength of the and drops on old oil. (too many miles, (over 7k miles)?
8;: gasoline (petrol) in the sump oil pan.? or water, or overfilled the pan (wrong dip stick) and oil is aerated, (foams up) and pressures drop, (pump does not like that nor do starving bearings)
that is all I can think of now....
no gauge model stated at a all, nor if 60,80,100,150 psi gauge? (60 is best)
no gauge technology stated, oil pipe line, or sender electric + guage. (no clues,)
no makers of oil, syn, dino and brands of oil, try Chevron Delo 15w-40 if you worry pressure at any engine temp.
MOST gauge is not accurate at 10PSI , that 2% is at full scan only.
A real shop uses a direct connected to the block gallery plug and uses a real; Borden tube meter. not consumer grade toy meters (they have there place cheap meters, but not for real diagnosis)
never pull and engine for the reading of one cheap consumer grade meter, . use a real shop gauge.
do you know how to test your meter for accuracy at 10PSI,, it is easy with shop air, and a regulator and real guage to set it. or just use a real guage and autometer is NOT IT.
the block oil sendr. port, is not NPT threaded, but is BNPT. (British pipe tread, Imperial oddity) do not cross thread it using USA NPT standard treads, the block is aluminum and not iron.
here is the best place to ask, bob the oil guy join and ask. but you fail testing methods , so is first things first error, get a real shop guage and learn to test the correct way. IMO
https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&...aACAvjyUW4
the above uses google site: search trick to find all oil pressure issues.
this post is only hot idle pressure, so.. that is my answer.
if real gauge at block using bourden tube analog gage fails..
1:the oil pan pickup screen tube -oring missing or cracked?
2: the oil just does that, as some can, hot.?
3: engine clearances way to large (they add up one bearing at a time to a total flow)
4: bad pump, ? id think not but why rebuild and engine with an untested oil pump.?? how odd is that and many china clone pumps are pure crap.
5:the pump bypass valve stuck open, well its part of pump so.... moot point here, but is a POINT of failure in the system.
6: oil temps over 270f?
7: OLD oil the dash 40 at the end is what is called the Shear strength of the and drops on old oil. (too many miles, (over 7k miles)?
8;: gasoline (petrol) in the sump oil pan.? or water, or overfilled the pan (wrong dip stick) and oil is aerated, (foams up) and pressures drop, (pump does not like that nor do starving bearings)
that is all I can think of now....
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