the pan as 4 sides, which of 4 sides are leaking (L,R, F,R>?)
then is 1 side show a leak look above the that side on the main block side, is the sides of the engine wet? oil wet?
is the junction orange?
I think the RTV used in the Iwata engine factory was orange (IIRC)
I look for that first, always, to see if some one played around with the pan. (evidence matters)
the front and rear are known to leak, both, if front leaks the #1 cause is the VC gasket above, leaking down front of engine (hidden from view by belt cover)
The rear will leak oil , all sidekicks suffer (until cured) the distributor, leaks oil, and down the back of head, then to the BELL and then into the BELL (5speed) vent hole
and then behind the flywheel (unseen by you) and down rear or the block and the drips off the rear pan, screws. (like clock work this happens) all do this until you do the VIton cure
seen on my hard to find parts page.
I,m not saying the pan does not leak , what Im saying is every person here that replaced the pan sealant with a new sealant the leak remained.
if the last person put gasket there, (wrong idea) sure it can leak, sure. so look for signs of gasket there from last guy, fooling around.
The gaskets sold are for 89-95 only, some are thicnk some are thin and if thick is used the CKP fails, the CPK lands on the Pan rim and not the block so if a gasket is used, oops.
no gasket sold,proof #1
https://www.suzukicarparts.com/parts/199...eid=214820
proof #2
FSM page, book 6A1, engine. page 37 step 1, GM Silicon sealant (RTV) (page 36 off, page 37 pan on)
http://ge.tt/6gvplbp2
, if the pan is still stock and not hit by rock .
removing the glued on pan is not easy at it sticks there super strong , only using metal putty knifes hit at the RTV junctions to break the seal , allowed it to come off easier.
the GM book skips the pry off pan step (GM magic) but the real suzuki book shows using a special tool to break the RTV very strong, sealant, (cutting it with a putty knife like tool ,custom)
all this complexity is prevented if you get the engine clean first.
new VC gasket too, and stop the distributor from leaking.
but you want to change that pan, so go ahead. (if it is leaking , id bet someone else had it off before and did it wrong)
good luck with leaks, some are very tricky,,,,
then is 1 side show a leak look above the that side on the main block side, is the sides of the engine wet? oil wet?
is the junction orange?
I think the RTV used in the Iwata engine factory was orange (IIRC)
I look for that first, always, to see if some one played around with the pan. (evidence matters)
the front and rear are known to leak, both, if front leaks the #1 cause is the VC gasket above, leaking down front of engine (hidden from view by belt cover)
The rear will leak oil , all sidekicks suffer (until cured) the distributor, leaks oil, and down the back of head, then to the BELL and then into the BELL (5speed) vent hole
and then behind the flywheel (unseen by you) and down rear or the block and the drips off the rear pan, screws. (like clock work this happens) all do this until you do the VIton cure
seen on my hard to find parts page.
I,m not saying the pan does not leak , what Im saying is every person here that replaced the pan sealant with a new sealant the leak remained.
if the last person put gasket there, (wrong idea) sure it can leak, sure. so look for signs of gasket there from last guy, fooling around.
The gaskets sold are for 89-95 only, some are thicnk some are thin and if thick is used the CKP fails, the CPK lands on the Pan rim and not the block so if a gasket is used, oops.
no gasket sold,proof #1
https://www.suzukicarparts.com/parts/199...eid=214820
proof #2
FSM page, book 6A1, engine. page 37 step 1, GM Silicon sealant (RTV) (page 36 off, page 37 pan on)
http://ge.tt/6gvplbp2
, if the pan is still stock and not hit by rock .
removing the glued on pan is not easy at it sticks there super strong , only using metal putty knifes hit at the RTV junctions to break the seal , allowed it to come off easier.
the GM book skips the pry off pan step (GM magic) but the real suzuki book shows using a special tool to break the RTV very strong, sealant, (cutting it with a putty knife like tool ,custom)
all this complexity is prevented if you get the engine clean first.
new VC gasket too, and stop the distributor from leaking.
but you want to change that pan, so go ahead. (if it is leaking , id bet someone else had it off before and did it wrong)
good luck with leaks, some are very tricky,,,,
http://www.fixkick.com