10-01-2018, 07:00 AM
the center case is DRY, 100% dry, so needs no sealants. and is an inspection step.
Sorry, my bad. Was looking at the wrong case seal. I see now how the center case is a dry case. I agree, I would be a dummkopf not to open that up to inspect seals while it's out.
I bet your disk is not swollen from oil. no oil in bell means (top vent sees that on bell) the distributor seals did not leak a ton of engine oil and land there
But I did have a fair amount of oil in the bell housing. Not as bad as the pic you showed, but still pretty oily as my pre-cleaning pic shows. I can see how the clutch surfaces are somewhat protected though since the oil would want to surface creep. It would have to creep in from behind the flywheel and the centrifugal force of the flywheel would help from it migrating onto the face I suppose. And yes, haven't removed the flywheel yet but lots of oily mess behind it cascading down from incontinent dizzy.
I'm really hoping this is just the clutch. I did replace the cable then adjusted to all the specs you listed and still had the shift balking. Clutch pedal weld, etc. all strong and intact although the previous owner had put the cable mount through the firewall and repaired by bolting 1/8" steel plate over hole and remounting the cable through it.
![[Image: 2192_30_09_18_3_52_15.jpeg]](http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/gallery/2192_30_09_18_3_52_15.jpeg)
You can be assured I will be checking clutch adjustment from now on. Let's see,
if I put 500km a year on..... I'll make a note on my 90th birthday to check it?
Obviously I need to verify that all shift rail alignments are proper and will dry run shifting of tranny and transfer cases while the tranny is out. Please let me know if there is anything else that I should check as the possible cause of my shifting issues before I reinstall the tranny.
THANK YOU FOR FLY LOCKER HACK / and torque values. Yes, I will need this for torquing PP back on too. Impact wrench worked well for removal but obviously not for tightening.
the detents are just that on the rail, sides, with ball bearing (signal ball and spring ) These are what hold a gear in gear or even neutral. you felt that every day if its life. shifting
Excellent description. I understand now
As for "made in CHINA" parts... imagine what kind of shape the other global manufacturing sectors would be in if they made (or started to make) really good quality stuff?
Sorry, my bad. Was looking at the wrong case seal. I see now how the center case is a dry case. I agree, I would be a dummkopf not to open that up to inspect seals while it's out.
I bet your disk is not swollen from oil. no oil in bell means (top vent sees that on bell) the distributor seals did not leak a ton of engine oil and land there
But I did have a fair amount of oil in the bell housing. Not as bad as the pic you showed, but still pretty oily as my pre-cleaning pic shows. I can see how the clutch surfaces are somewhat protected though since the oil would want to surface creep. It would have to creep in from behind the flywheel and the centrifugal force of the flywheel would help from it migrating onto the face I suppose. And yes, haven't removed the flywheel yet but lots of oily mess behind it cascading down from incontinent dizzy.
I'm really hoping this is just the clutch. I did replace the cable then adjusted to all the specs you listed and still had the shift balking. Clutch pedal weld, etc. all strong and intact although the previous owner had put the cable mount through the firewall and repaired by bolting 1/8" steel plate over hole and remounting the cable through it.
You can be assured I will be checking clutch adjustment from now on. Let's see,
if I put 500km a year on..... I'll make a note on my 90th birthday to check it?Obviously I need to verify that all shift rail alignments are proper and will dry run shifting of tranny and transfer cases while the tranny is out. Please let me know if there is anything else that I should check as the possible cause of my shifting issues before I reinstall the tranny.
THANK YOU FOR FLY LOCKER HACK / and torque values. Yes, I will need this for torquing PP back on too. Impact wrench worked well for removal but obviously not for tightening.
the detents are just that on the rail, sides, with ball bearing (signal ball and spring ) These are what hold a gear in gear or even neutral. you felt that every day if its life. shifting
Excellent description. I understand now
As for "made in CHINA" parts... imagine what kind of shape the other global manufacturing sectors would be in if they made (or started to make) really good quality stuff?