please do not use metric readings for sure mixed with PSI ,imperial measurements.
use PSI and inches HG only please.
that inner scale is for (ROTW, rest of the world ,not us Gringo's) I can do Bar no problem but mixing is bad idea here)
please use only PSI fuel, and inches Hg. readings. and we can test FPR easy in USA.
now where I got lost at post 47 (old fpr)
there are 2 gauges here,which one leaks fuel?
and worse new FPR (post 42 is worse far far worSE)
the new FPR seems to have the vacuum hose missing (flashlight , sure... been there,)
what we are also doing wrong is not doing tests on a hot engine, all measurements running are hot engine
for sure 800 rpm idle,its key data point, means (standards) to test the FPR and say good or bad.
the vacuum tool must be INSERTEd in one of 2 places
the EVAP nipple on the front intake plenum face, pull EVAP hose us the nipple on the aluminum huge plenum tank
or BETTER.
far far far better, use any inline TEE fitting ,connected to the FPR vacuum hose , extend the hose is best cutting hose not)
now the vac gauge sees what the FPR sees, ok?
key on only, not started,hot or cold engine. HERE.
best is hot engine, so the readings can be compared. and 800 RPM is 20inches running, cold the vacuum will be way lower,
the pressure will be the highest ever seen, this a key factor this first test, you reported, 40PSI, (mine reads 36)
but then start the car,
best is hot engine, so the readings can be compared. and 800 RPM is 20inches running, cold the vacuum will be way lower, AND HARD TO JUDGE)
the 40 your read must drop by 6psi hot, 800 rpm is hot, and 20" Hg vacuum is now.
you reported 35 running that is 5 PSI drop and is ok
if you gun the throttle the vacuum goes near 0, and fuel pressure jumps newer 40 (mine 36)
then you cut the throttle ,a huge vacuum is created, 26inch HG, and full pressure drops to 21psi. this is not in the suzuki book, it is tricky to do.
a wise tech, knows that the FPR has a 15 PSI dynamic range on this car, if not the FPR is bad, or vacuum wrong, or return line clogged(restricted)
the 2nd rule is the (again hot engine) is the FPR dynamic range, on hot engine 800 rpm normal idle speed.
is 6 PSI FROM KEYON NOSTAt TO 800 RPM IDLE,
To do the full FPR dynamic range one needs vacuum hand too to reach 21PSI
or play with the throttle, gun throttle to 3500 rpm about (fuel pressure rises ) then cut the the throttle see the fuel pressure fall like rock
lowest ever seen is 21psi. at 26inches HG, vacuum as the engine spools down. fast.
the engine makes huge powerful vacuum pump HOT (but not very well cold with IAC wide open wrecking vacuum)
the FPR is best tested with a hand vacuum pump, at FPR , engine idling,
it must idle keyon or the pump shuts off is why.
a shorter test if confident the new FPR is good (my guess the new FPR was never vacuum hose connected)
is do keyon pressure again. hot or cold engine, key on 3 times see max pressure keyon, not started.
my guess 40 is what you saw.
40 keyon. (mine reads 36) both mine and yours are in spec. but yours is 4psi higher,(cheap gauges do this easy but ok)
cheap gauges can be 4PSI OFF. EASY 10% ERROR. BUT WE CAN WORK WITH THAT.
when you start the engine hot, not cold, the pSI drops , 6 psi fuel press. EVEN A CHEAP GAUGE SEES THE 6 PSI DROP. at hot 800 rpm starts.
if starting a cold engine, I can not test any FPR cold sorry, only hot engines.
a cold start the vacuum is weak,(low inches HG, say 15 not 20) and the fuel pressure will not drop 6psi , less drop
making FPR testing impossible using only the engine, or if you must we use vacuum hand pump, to get 20inch HG at the FPR NIPPLE.
That is it.
conclusion, testing cold engines, is not easy , (or buy a hand vacuum pump at harbor freight)
use PSI and inches HG only please.
that inner scale is for (ROTW, rest of the world ,not us Gringo's) I can do Bar no problem but mixing is bad idea here)
please use only PSI fuel, and inches Hg. readings. and we can test FPR easy in USA.
now where I got lost at post 47 (old fpr)
Quote:ok im getting home about dark working with flashlight, will do more this weekend, I put old FPR back on, it is around 35 to 38 psi running 40 or so before startup. vacuum at the hose that connect to fpr is about 45 to 48(cmHG), did shunt test it jumped into the 50 plus range and fuel sprayed from leaking fittings on harbor freight gauge so didnt get good reading. will try this weekend some time.leaking at rail , or leaking at FPR nipple bad.?????
there are 2 gauges here,which one leaks fuel?
and worse new FPR (post 42 is worse far far worSE)
Quote:Got the new FPR on last night, 40 psi key on 40 psi idle, 38 psi during acceleration but still bogs and runs worse than it did before.as you can see vacuum is 100% dead at FPR engine stated, 40 to start 40PSI and idle.
the new FPR seems to have the vacuum hose missing (flashlight , sure... been there,)
what we are also doing wrong is not doing tests on a hot engine, all measurements running are hot engine
for sure 800 rpm idle,its key data point, means (standards) to test the FPR and say good or bad.
the vacuum tool must be INSERTEd in one of 2 places
the EVAP nipple on the front intake plenum face, pull EVAP hose us the nipple on the aluminum huge plenum tank
or BETTER.
far far far better, use any inline TEE fitting ,connected to the FPR vacuum hose , extend the hose is best cutting hose not)
now the vac gauge sees what the FPR sees, ok?
key on only, not started,hot or cold engine. HERE.
best is hot engine, so the readings can be compared. and 800 RPM is 20inches running, cold the vacuum will be way lower,
the pressure will be the highest ever seen, this a key factor this first test, you reported, 40PSI, (mine reads 36)
but then start the car,
best is hot engine, so the readings can be compared. and 800 RPM is 20inches running, cold the vacuum will be way lower, AND HARD TO JUDGE)
the 40 your read must drop by 6psi hot, 800 rpm is hot, and 20" Hg vacuum is now.
you reported 35 running that is 5 PSI drop and is ok
if you gun the throttle the vacuum goes near 0, and fuel pressure jumps newer 40 (mine 36)
then you cut the throttle ,a huge vacuum is created, 26inch HG, and full pressure drops to 21psi. this is not in the suzuki book, it is tricky to do.
a wise tech, knows that the FPR has a 15 PSI dynamic range on this car, if not the FPR is bad, or vacuum wrong, or return line clogged(restricted)
the 2nd rule is the (again hot engine) is the FPR dynamic range, on hot engine 800 rpm normal idle speed.
is 6 PSI FROM KEYON NOSTAt TO 800 RPM IDLE,
To do the full FPR dynamic range one needs vacuum hand too to reach 21PSI
or play with the throttle, gun throttle to 3500 rpm about (fuel pressure rises ) then cut the the throttle see the fuel pressure fall like rock
lowest ever seen is 21psi. at 26inches HG, vacuum as the engine spools down. fast.
the engine makes huge powerful vacuum pump HOT (but not very well cold with IAC wide open wrecking vacuum)
the FPR is best tested with a hand vacuum pump, at FPR , engine idling,
it must idle keyon or the pump shuts off is why.
a shorter test if confident the new FPR is good (my guess the new FPR was never vacuum hose connected)
is do keyon pressure again. hot or cold engine, key on 3 times see max pressure keyon, not started.
my guess 40 is what you saw.
40 keyon. (mine reads 36) both mine and yours are in spec. but yours is 4psi higher,(cheap gauges do this easy but ok)
cheap gauges can be 4PSI OFF. EASY 10% ERROR. BUT WE CAN WORK WITH THAT.
when you start the engine hot, not cold, the pSI drops , 6 psi fuel press. EVEN A CHEAP GAUGE SEES THE 6 PSI DROP. at hot 800 rpm starts.
if starting a cold engine, I can not test any FPR cold sorry, only hot engines.
a cold start the vacuum is weak,(low inches HG, say 15 not 20) and the fuel pressure will not drop 6psi , less drop
making FPR testing impossible using only the engine, or if you must we use vacuum hand pump, to get 20inch HG at the FPR NIPPLE.
That is it.
conclusion, testing cold engines, is not easy , (or buy a hand vacuum pump at harbor freight)
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