Ecu pull

[Heady]

what is the car doing wrong?

I guess I will start at the beginning.

I bought the car from a guy that new little about it and he said it kept dying and wouldn’t start back up and he replaced the alternator. I hen I seen the battery was 5 years old I knew immediately the battery was junk and probably ruined his new alt so I put a new battery in it drove it home got the alt tested(junk), got a new alt and installed it. I also checked all the fuses they were good, replaced older looking ones for good measure cause I had some on hand and checked the bus fuses. The main bus fuse had a 60amp fuse when it called for 40 if I remember right. It was blown so I replaced it with the correct fuse, changed the positive and negative battery cables and went about my day. I also gave it a tune up. Changed: spark wires and plugs(ngk one specified under the hood), distributor cap and rotor, ig coil, thermostat(has correct paper gasket), upper and lower(2) radiator hoses, temp sensor(gave a code 13), water pump, timing belt, idler pulley, valve cover gasket, water pump gasket, and I swapped out my tps(kept giving me a code 45) with one I had on a 95 8v parts tracker. Whew that’s a lot sorry. Most of this stuff that I did actually need changed either it was past it’s prime or the ecu sent me a code. The car also had a spectre come air filter in place of the stock box. I took the one that was on my parts tracker since the box said SUZUKI anyways lol and installed it as well. I also installed a stock dome light too.

Some of the problems I’ve encountered have been:

My ISC wasn’t working correctly, I believe I’m in need of a new one in the future(beats itself to death) upon inspection of this the wires were cut from a previous owner! So I had to bypass the shared pigtail and just splice them together. It seems to work half the time... I’ve cleaned the grounds for the ecu as best as I can without replacing the stock eyelets. I’ve noticed after it warms up my dash lights all work now fancy that! Not the oil, brake, seatbelt ones, I’m talking about the speedo, tac, fuel, temp/A.C. settings, and everything that is ran off of the dash illumination nob on the far left of the dash. A previous owner also put a new horn button on because I guess the steering wheel stopped working. They also bypassed the key ignition and installed a flip switch to power the car on and off and a push button to crank the engine....and the key is only used for making sure the steering wheel doesn’t lock. Since I pulled the ecu I’m in the process of fixing all of this crazy business so it will be back to normal.

Distributor timing: like I stated in an earlier post the car seems to not want to go over 55mph without a little back fire and the tachometer goes crazy after 3000 rpm. When I checked my distributor timing the other day it was crazy! If I had the dizzy all the way retarded it wouldn’t go under 15 BTDC according to the light and it isn’t hitting the same spot as it should every time kind of bounces around...I also tried pinching the vacuum hose on the distributor to see if this would freeze the timing but it didn’t really help....I’m assuming I’ve done something wrong at some point or I’m not timing it correctly or something idk...


This leads my to my Diagnostic Jumper...I have 2. I have the usual diag fuse in the cab(the drivers left knee box bottom right corner). I also have the white 4 pin connector by the battery box! Very confusing because everything I’ve read on the 89 says it’s supposed to have the one in the cab and that’s it.

There is also another pigtail beside my DTC jumper by the battery box, I believe it is a 3 pin though. Do you have any idea what this would be used for? I know 91 and up the dizzy is different and this other pigtail would be used to freeze the timing but in my case the ecu isn’t supposed to control spark so I’m clueless..

I’m getting 15mpg so I assume I’m in Limphome mode I can get my idle down to 850 now when warm(I had a vacuum leak from the valve cover when I first bought it), and I think the other air filter would mess with it as well. I’ve had the Diag jumper in the last couple weeks when I drive it to try to get running codes and haven’t gotten any besides 12. Like I said earlier when I didn’t tighten the dizzy bolt down all the way while running my codes would be interrupted sometimes. Like it would be repeating code 12 and sometimes blink once and wait a while then continue.(blink...blink,blink......blink...........blink....blink,blink) I’m not sure if it was because stupid me forgot to tighten the bolt and it was messing with it or if that would effect it at all because when this would happen I was going 55mph in 5th gear so it’s not like I was at a low rpm.

I think that is everything