06-17-2018, 02:20 AM
there you go ! nice work.
the tie rods have no play,
the ball joints have spec. play , ask.
ever look on rockauto.com
as least its the best place to see all the brands of parts sold for one car, one part.
best. IMO
why did you say pitman, its just shaft lever., solid drop forged hard steel. bit joint on the bottom end point will fail, and comes off.
you need press too to remove them, all,
a pickle fork tool will not work 99% of the time, for sure this OLD.
if a joint gets loose (tie rod ends) loose, that is telling you it is bad, and gets worse faster (due to the play) and if it gets worse you drop a rod.
why risk life, with the possible joint failing totally.
Ive never seen a car this old and high mileage with good rods. how is that? there are no zerk grease fitting on them (junk joints, IMO)
no grease lasts that long. so...
The alignment must be done after the job.
toe in for sure.
the steering gear box will have small play to, and is spec'd and is adjustable, to some degree.
you need to ask someone hands on to tell you at least what parts are bad.
tie rod ends sure, those are bad.
lots of things up front can clunk not just steering, in fact there my be 2 things bad or more up front, expect it.
the front as center link rod and idler arm and pitman (its not a toyota ,at all) no rack an pinion here, at all.
it has 2 tie rods
it has 6 tie ball rod joint to fail here, not counting 2 ball joint on the "A" arms and bad STRUTS, all of these parts can go clunk if bad.
The play adds up, too, so that too is a problem.
rods page. (page 5 shows the tool in action)
https://web.archive.org/web/201011190900...-2-pdf.htm
but what else there,
The ball joints on the bottom outside of the "A:" arms need to be checked for excessive play. need youtube on that> ,lots there.
one example is .002" ok, over 0.010" is bad, just a rough example. but is typical. its i the big book.
chapter 3C
https://web.archive.org/web/201010050737...3c-pdf.htm
shows how, to disassemble "A" Arm ,
no specs on page, torque yes.
steering wheel play is 10 t0 30mm max. per manual. (div, by 25.4 to get inches)
i could not find the suzuki ball joint play spec, in the book, dang.
The maker if the joints web page shows, no spring, joint and no play is normal. (load bearing joint)
http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/strut...ll-joints/
the tie rods have no play,
the ball joints have spec. play , ask.
ever look on rockauto.com
as least its the best place to see all the brands of parts sold for one car, one part.
best. IMO
why did you say pitman, its just shaft lever., solid drop forged hard steel. bit joint on the bottom end point will fail, and comes off.
you need press too to remove them, all,
a pickle fork tool will not work 99% of the time, for sure this OLD.
if a joint gets loose (tie rod ends) loose, that is telling you it is bad, and gets worse faster (due to the play) and if it gets worse you drop a rod.
why risk life, with the possible joint failing totally.
Ive never seen a car this old and high mileage with good rods. how is that? there are no zerk grease fitting on them (junk joints, IMO)
no grease lasts that long. so...
The alignment must be done after the job.
toe in for sure.
the steering gear box will have small play to, and is spec'd and is adjustable, to some degree.
you need to ask someone hands on to tell you at least what parts are bad.
tie rod ends sure, those are bad.
lots of things up front can clunk not just steering, in fact there my be 2 things bad or more up front, expect it.
the front as center link rod and idler arm and pitman (its not a toyota ,at all) no rack an pinion here, at all.
it has 2 tie rods
it has 6 tie ball rod joint to fail here, not counting 2 ball joint on the "A" arms and bad STRUTS, all of these parts can go clunk if bad.
The play adds up, too, so that too is a problem.
rods page. (page 5 shows the tool in action)
https://web.archive.org/web/201011190900...-2-pdf.htm
but what else there,
The ball joints on the bottom outside of the "A:" arms need to be checked for excessive play. need youtube on that> ,lots there.
one example is .002" ok, over 0.010" is bad, just a rough example. but is typical. its i the big book.
chapter 3C
https://web.archive.org/web/201010050737...3c-pdf.htm
shows how, to disassemble "A" Arm ,
no specs on page, torque yes.
steering wheel play is 10 t0 30mm max. per manual. (div, by 25.4 to get inches)
i could not find the suzuki ball joint play spec, in the book, dang.
The maker if the joints web page shows, no spring, joint and no play is normal. (load bearing joint)
http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/strut...ll-joints/
(06-16-2018, 06:25 AM)CSUSBgeochem1 Wrote: I enjoy how thorough you get because it gives me a plan of attack. I started with jacking up the driver side tire and gave it a good shove side to side and it looks like the steering linkages were all shot.....looks can be deceiving which is why you labeled visual as number 1. Everything looked bad but i wasn't sure if it was the culprit so i jacked up the tire. sure enough the center link and tie rods were shot and i could wobble the entire steering system all the way to the steering wheel shaft. NO GOOD. can you believe how much all those parts cost??? Not sure if i would rather pay more for a center link with joints or replace the idler and pitman if they included those joints.... This is the first design i have come across like this. Toyota has the joints on the idler/pitman and not the center link. i guess its easy to keep steering on par, but still expensive. so im fixing that right now and i will get back to you if it fixes the thud issue.
http://www.fixkick.com