ok first post shows, 8v, so I got all confused.
each engine suzuki makes is very different. 8v, 16v, 1.8L 2.0, 2.5L
my 16v page covers all that, above I posted 8v to your 8v 1st post.
here is 16v, tbelt change, as before, (and more easy on 16v) the spokes do have false markes and is E marked in 2 places, "I"marks are wrong.
once timed the cam correctly , step 2 is compression test, 180Psi (throttle must be open some 1/2 way or more) if at 80PSI the cam is timed wrong. (x4, 80psi)
we always validate compression, why, because if wrong , its pain to do the job again from full assembled. it takes all of 15minuts. even doing #1 compression spark plugs out is easy.
type compression in my search box, fixkick.com
16v tbelt
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/16-fast-belt-install.html
compression. ( 5min work spark out, saves 2 hours of labor)
http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html
if compression is ok then check spark
cant burn fuel lacking spark. and timed right.
now lets to prime rose path to hell
say last guy let the cam slip 1 cog.
then found spark timing off (oh it will be) so set spark to match the cam error, ouch.
then you come along, and fix the bad cam timinng (bravo)
and now the spark timing is off,
prime rose path to hell. 101.
that is why we check it all, to avoid all that pain,
compression guage.
and a timing light and the freeze jumper inserted.
this is WRONG. #4 valves are loose not 1. (lash loose means both valves are closed, and #4 firing.)
the CAM cog wheel can be installed 2 ways wrong.
using I marks or I key , or both ways wrong, horror everytime,
that cam cog like the 8v fits 2 engines (dohc and sohc)
yours cog only uses "E" marks and the "E" key.
the real photos on my 16v tbelt pages show this clear as day and in many redundant ways. see photo 3 and 4,
each engine suzuki makes is very different. 8v, 16v, 1.8L 2.0, 2.5L
my 16v page covers all that, above I posted 8v to your 8v 1st post.
here is 16v, tbelt change, as before, (and more easy on 16v) the spokes do have false markes and is E marked in 2 places, "I"marks are wrong.
once timed the cam correctly , step 2 is compression test, 180Psi (throttle must be open some 1/2 way or more) if at 80PSI the cam is timed wrong. (x4, 80psi)
we always validate compression, why, because if wrong , its pain to do the job again from full assembled. it takes all of 15minuts. even doing #1 compression spark plugs out is easy.
type compression in my search box, fixkick.com
16v tbelt
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/16-fast-belt-install.html
compression. ( 5min work spark out, saves 2 hours of labor)
http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html
if compression is ok then check spark
cant burn fuel lacking spark. and timed right.
now lets to prime rose path to hell
say last guy let the cam slip 1 cog.
then found spark timing off (oh it will be) so set spark to match the cam error, ouch.
then you come along, and fix the bad cam timinng (bravo)
and now the spark timing is off,
prime rose path to hell. 101.
that is why we check it all, to avoid all that pain,
compression guage.
and a timing light and the freeze jumper inserted.
this is WRONG. #4 valves are loose not 1. (lash loose means both valves are closed, and #4 firing.)
Quote:Right now crankshaft and camshaft are at 12 o'clock and #1 valves are loose (closed) and #4 valves are tight. (open) The distributor point to cylinder #4. Is that the way it should be for a stock engine? No start!\\ sure.
the CAM cog wheel can be installed 2 ways wrong.
using I marks or I key , or both ways wrong, horror everytime,
that cam cog like the 8v fits 2 engines (dohc and sohc)
yours cog only uses "E" marks and the "E" key.
the real photos on my 16v tbelt pages show this clear as day and in many redundant ways. see photo 3 and 4,
http://www.fixkick.com