03-01-2018, 01:34 PM
(03-01-2018, 09:28 AM)fixkick Wrote: ok, is the distributor grounded"? pin 4
pin 7 power pin 12v
then the ignitor can fire.
if it charges with 3 volt on the gate (battery pack 2 AA cells) then the ignitor works and the coil,
then you release the 3v and the coil fires with 15,000 volts use a spark plug there, not and open circuit or you invite 15,000 volts back to the MS.
the if that works try the MS,
working with no scope makes this very hard.
but if you can , tell the MS to fire the coil 1 time (spin the CMP or CKP , not sure what you use to fire the MS,but make one turn of the CMP or CKP) then you see the coil charge then release.
one can see that even with a DMM on pin5 red, and black meter to ground.
that is 100% correct the extra ignitor is on more buffer protecting the MS. for sure. but needs the MS inverted, (you have 2 inverting buffers now) so invert the MS end or burn the coil up you will.
that is why I use a dummy load for a coil to make sure all is perfect, then blow up the coil, LOL!!!!!
make sure the distributor body is well grounded, or bad things can happen with 15,000 volts with no place to go but to a very bad place.
10 years ago i scoped this pin , i forgot
see the hand drawn wave at the bottom of my photo.
its 12v pulse i this car (I had 2 , 97/97 cars) and a nice scope, so drew that long ago.
note the inductive back kick (EMF) the suppressor may help the coil RING, IDK. sorry.
see bottom center.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/1996/EFI1.jpg
ok so update. You will never guess what i found wrong. so i had to build a custom fused power block to power some of the stock 16v components (since the samurai never had these parts), and i went through everything again and found that one of the crimps i made on the 12v wire that powers the coil was crimped on the wire insulation, and not actually contacting the wire itself, so the whole time i have been testing it there has not been 12vdc at the coil (black/white wire). I also checked with the extra IGBT in the circuit which one of the spark setting makes the orange wire read zero volts going into the distributor. I actually had to set spark to Normal (going low) for the 5v on the orange wire to not be on it constantly. I know if 5v is present all the time, that means the igniter is firing and burned coil or soon to be. so i tested it and i have spark now, i had the dwell time set to 3ms and simulated it at 600 RPM (megasquirt has a input/output test area that allows me to test all inputs/outputs without running the engine) and gives a nice spark. The spark was blue and not super bright so i may play around with the dwell a tiny bit, but 3ms seems to be ok for now. That was the last major piece to the puzzle. Now its time to program everything. You have no idea how useful your notes have been, i've been using your notes on your page to integrate megasquirt into the stock components for quite some time now. I don't think i could have done it nearly as quickly without all the info you had, so thanks!!!